[Coloradodashcam]

Having the same issues (2007 model year), started nearly two weeks ago with some odd shifting in the transmission, then had issues with the fans being stuck on, power windows stuck down, headlights, windshield wipers and so on. Finally yesterday, after endless troubleshooting the serpentine belt started making noises that matched RPM, and lucky for me the 4WD system gave out while I was trying to make it out from a mountain road with nearly a foot untouched snow... Car lost power, and only one wheel was turning. Turned off everything electronic, wipers, headlights, radio, and somehow 2WD and a friend got me out, but with plenty of complaining from the car. Thought I destroyed the entire computer system, poor car! Took it to a mechanic friend, as it was way beyond me. $230 to replace, seems to have fixed all issues... Will update if that changes

 

[plplplpl]

Alternator -- Do Not Ignore the Whine

Just as I feared and predicted yet ignored to my own detriment, the couple of times in the past few weeks I heard a whine that accompanied RPMs blossomed this evening into a full-fledged alternator failure. The symptoms described in this thread have it right; first the battery light comes on, then the VTM-4, then seat belt, air bag, ABS, etc.,etc in a cascade of electrical system failures followed by poltergeist-ish mechanical failures like wipers and transmission until finally you're just dead in the water, in my case in the form of pouring rain, although there's really no good time to break down. Being a dad to a couple of teenagers, I've become inured to whining, but this is one I ought not to have ignored. Sorry for the cinéma-vérité videography.

https://youtu.be/4sJKQifudQQ

Two hours and a flatbed later, I managed to get it back home, since all my favorite mechanics were closed on a Sunday night, and hook it up to my mid-'60s battery charger, because I'm hoping to put just enough of a charge into it to make it about 30 minutes away to a trusted mechanic Monday or Tuesday.

Which brings me to my question: How long should I leave a reliable but old school manual battery charger connected at 12 volts and 6 amps? Approximately how long will it take to recharge a pretty much completely discharged battery? Is overnight safe, or should I unplug it overnight and just resume charging in the morning, looking in on it from time to time?

 

[xGS]

Which brings me to my question: How long should I leave a reliable but old school manual battery charger connected at 12 volts and 6 amps? Approximately how long will it take to recharge a pretty much completely discharged battery? Is overnight safe, or should I unplug it overnight and just resume charging in the morning, looking in on it from time to time?

Time to recharge depends upon how much charge is remaining in the battery.
It's not inconceivable that it could take on the order of 10 hours for a full recharge.

If it's not a so-called "smart" or multi-rate charger that can taper off the charge rate as the battery becomes fully charged, then don't leave it running unattended - and certainly not overnight while you're asleep.

 

[plplplpl]

I highly doubt there's anything smart about this ol' girl, but on the other hand, she still starts me up after all these years.

Thanks for the well-timed help. I'll go out and unplug it now, and hence get a better night's sleep.

 

[Wanderer]

Thanks for the well-timed help. I'll go out and unplug it now, and hence get a better night's sleep.

What was that noise? My car battery exploding, or just another bear knocking over the trash cans in my garage?

 

[plplplpl]

Alternator replaced, as well as 2011 battery while I was at it. All's good now, and so that's one less source of whining I have to listen to.

By the way, I made it on impulse power, Scotty, to within 100 meters of the garage before petering out again, then had to have the mechanic double up the battery to hobble the rest of the way.

 

[Guest]

Honda pilot 2003 Alternator problem

Dear All,

I do not know if anyone had had the problem I am experiencing with my Honda pilot 2003 edition for suggestions on what I should do.

About a week ago, after normal routine checks in the morning, I started my Honda pilot and suddenly a hissing noise started blaring from the engine and before I knew what was going on, smoke was coming out out from the engine.

I switched off the engine, checked only to find out that the alternator had burnt out,.

I have changed the alternator but the motor refused to start, after several hours I tried to start it did start. However, the following day, it started but once I engage the gear the engine goes off. This si the state I am now.

What should I do to solve the problem.
Thank you

 

[SpringerPop]

Last evening, wife was on her way home from something when she called to say that her 2008 Pilot was whining and trans seemed to be slipping as she left a stoplight. There was also a little red box on the instrument panel that she hadn't noticed before. I told her how bad slipping was on a trans, and to find a parking lot to pull into, where I would meet her.

Arrived with trans fluid, but when I pulled the stick it was high. Engine wasn't running so I told her to start it. Nada! Dead battery. OK, we're a mile and a half from Costco, where the last Kirkland was purchased in 2012. Believe it or not, there was still some value (about thirty bucks!) in a trade-in, as it was a 100-month pro-rata guarantee. I see why Costco now has the Interstate branded equivalents with a whole different warranty period. Both brands are made by Johnson Controls, anyway.

Get back to the Pilot, install battery, start engine, and that "little red box" is still illuminated, but the trans shifts smoothly again, with no hesitation or slippage. Whew! It's not a trans problem! She drives it home.

This morning I find this thread, and WAA-LAA, symptoms just like mine are described here! I don't trust parts-house "rebuilt, lifetime guarantee" stuff. I usually seek out a local rebuild shop who has a reputation to uphold among the local auto repair tradesmen. Call the local guy. He says he can test it, and to bring it in. Alternator tests dead, which I consider to be a GOOD thing! At least it isn't the Load Detector or ECM, both of which I would be at a loss to troubleshoot.

I'll get it back tomorrow, and let you all know if it has resolved the "little red box" issue.

Pop

 

[SpringerPop]

Got the alternator back this morning. Not yet installed, but later today.

Old parts were returned for my inspection. The bearings looked good and felt smooth, I have no opinion about the regulator and have no way to test it, and there is still plenty of brush material remaining. As the rebuild guy told me yesterday, the weak link with the Denso alternators is the diode pack. The diodes' failure definitely was the culprit.

A quick look revealed eight diodes (out of twelve total) were physically "popped". You can see four of them on one side of the diode pack photo below. Though I didn't ask him, twisting them physically with a pair of pliers may have been his way to indicate the bad ones, as I have never seen diodes blow up that way before.

EDIT: All's well now. The rebuilt alternator fixed the problems. However, the Check Engine light stayed illuminated for a couple of days. I suspect the OBD-II "valid" was lost during the battery outage, and a couple of complete drive cycles were needed to restore it to shut the indicator off. However, I don't KNOW that for sure.

Pop

 

[Amber Cheney]

So here's my question. I was driving and my battery light came on and stayed. My airbag same thing and my AC started working when it was OFF. Looking on line I determined it was a bad alternator. So I had a friend replace the alternator today. He works for GMC. They started the car and it's running where it supposed to be numbers wise. I left it running for a min and it started to idle really strangely. The RPM thing was jumping up and down. My battery light has gone off though. I turned the car off and on again and again it started jumping and now the check engine light is on and the VTM-4 light is on. When I drive about 35'mph and take my foot off the gas peddle it makes a jerking movement. What would cause this simply because the alternator was replaced? Is there codes that need to be reset? Does something need to be reset saying the Alt was changed? I don't know what to do. How do I get it to stop jumping and the lights to go off?

 

[plplplpl]

If you replaced the alternator with a good one, now check your fuses, relays and especially your battery cable connections. Make sure they're good and tight and not corroded.

 

[2010exl]

There is a fuse box under the hood, near the right front tire. There is an unmarked relay in there that will cause high idle, abs light and traction light to come on if that relay is removed with the engine running.

This just happened to me while diagnosing a possible faulty A/C compressor relay.

I had to plug in the scanner and erase the codes in order to get the engine to idle properly.

Your low voltage from the faulty alternator could have de activated the relay with the engine running, giving you the same result that I had from actually removing the relay with the engine running.

 

[DIYDoug]

I'm having similar symptoms in as far as the lights going on, low voltage, etc., but not the whining noise. We've thrown diagnostics and parts at our 2007 Honda Pilot, and a year later, the problem persists. Here's a summary:
1. Car died on highway with battery light on. Had it towed to shop
2. Replaced battery and alternator. Drove home
3. Next day, battery light came on, although everything seemed to work fine. Took back to shop for more diagnostics. Shop claimed it was fine. After a couple of return visits they replaced the alternator and battery again.
4. Battery light continued. Took to Honda dealership. They wanted $$$ to diagnose it, and without looking, simply claimed that an aftermarket alternator will not be as good as Honda, and we needed to get a Honda alternator to fix the problem (estimated cost >$800)
5. Light periodically went on. My own test showed that the battery and alternator worked fine. Now (12 months after the last shop visit), the battery light is coming back on. My own test shows voltage is low (11 volts when running). Shop recommends new battery and alternator.

What else should I be looking at?
A slow leak somewhere?
An electrical problem causing the alternator to die?

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

 

[road2cycle]

Is the accessory belt in good condition and not too loose?
Have you tried trickle charging the battery and then having it load tested? If you can remove the battery from the Pilot and take it to the store/shop as opposed to driving the Pilot over to the shop. That way it’s as charged as it’s going to get when load tested.

 

[MyDarlin]

My 04 pilot is going through the same issues as OP. My alternator was changed in 2011. A few years later it was changed again after failing and Honda telling me the alternator was on a recall - didn't have to pay for the new alternator but the labor was $$$.
Since then my alternator light has come on intermittently - I've gotten away with driving it for 5+ years (single mom, limited resources).
Now I'm getting the crazy flickering of dashboard lights, headlights brighten then back to normal, and the weird intermittent low pitched whine.
We are sure it's the alternator again! However, we've cleaned the terminals and will tomorrow check all the fuses.
This 04 is my baby - with 260k miles on it. I really want it to run for a few more years. It's been a damn good vehicle.

 

[Rocky]

When was the accessory belt and tensioner last replaced?
Have you checked the battery and alternator performance?