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And 20+ wheels are a +4. Check out tire rack and you can see that a +1 or +2 are generally acceptable. +4 is asking for suspension issues with most cars. So the savings on tires might end up getting spent on suspension parts later.

I upgraded our 2007 to 17” Acura TL wheels. Very subtle, but it sure is easier to identify out car in a sea of black pilots.

 

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And 20+ wheels are a +4. Check out tire rack and you can see that a +1 or +2 are generally acceptable. +4 is asking for suspension issues with most cars. So the savings on tires might end up getting spent on suspension parts later.

I upgraded our 2007 to 17” Acura TL wheels. Very subtle, but it sure is easier to identify out car in a sea of black pilots.

After our pilot hit a parked car and got fixed by insurance, there’s been a vibration at highway speeds. The body shop said they didn’t check the tire balance. I moved the wheel that hit the car to the back, but noticed that front left wheel is closer to the rear wheel than spec, but closer to spec than the front wheel on the other side which is farther forward than spec. So I didn’t cry and moan about them not replacing the lower control arm as they said they would. The body shop is a neighbor, and I like to be neighborly. They offered for me to bring the car in to check the tire balance, but I got busy that day. So now that it’s been so long, I figured I’d do the balance myself on my friend’s balancer. Meanwhile, I replaced two of the old stock 16” tires that were bald, and was pretty shocked by this. That’s a big bend for a 70 profile tire. That must have been a serious pothol to put that flat spot in the wheel. I wailed on it with a 3-5 lbs hammer to try and straighten it. Anyway, there’s some discussion here about other wheels not being strong enough. Well, this has me doubting the stock wheels are strong enough. I hope to re-balance the 17” soon.

I think this is an “after” the wailing, followed by the “before”.









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Feel better now? (I mean that both ways.:))

But also, Goodyears?

Bought the car with 35k miles ~2010 and integrity tires date coded right around the build date. So I assumed they were original. They were good up to about 80k miles and based on that, I went against the family mechanic’s recommendation to not buy Integrity tires due to their poor tread life. My wife sidewalk damaged one near immediately, so I’d bought 5. Then the rear shocks were bad and didn’t get them replaced immediately. The rear tires scalloped, and my wife complained of the helicopter noise the rear tires would make when I installed them in the front. So the tires never got rotated and we ended up only getting about 40-45,000 miles from that second set, around 120-125,000 miles. So I just flipped the rears so the scallops are now on the outside and put some high tread used ones to replace the old fronts. Hopefully they can be rotated if we use them much.

I just need them to run long enough to see if I can get the 17” hankooks rebalanced well. I balanced the 16” as well as I could. There’s still some runout on that bent front. So it may need to be used as a rear despite having better tread. Oh well. Just a backup set.

Anyway, the point here is to show that maybe the factory wheels aren’t super-high quality. Add that to the peeling clear coat mess, and they aren’t anything to love so much IMO.
 
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