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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a 2009 Pilot Touring. I just installed an aftermarket subwoofer. My goal was to add my 12” while keeping the stock in tact until it fails. I tapped into the wires running into the OEM sub enclosure, and ran that to the high level input of my amp. However, this is where the issue starts.

I get it all hooked up and tested it. Everything seems fine. Then the first drive. When idling there the 12” sub rumbles even with the volume at 0. The OEM sub is not effected. I open any door and the rumbling stops and the sub works as expected. If I disconnect the high level inputs it stops entirely. if the engine is not running it stops, and works as expected.

Under the same conditions that caused the rumble I connected my phone using a aux to rca adapter and it works as expected. I switch to the high level input from the OEM sub and the aftermarket sub rumbles.

While troubleshooting, I noticed an oddity with the splice coming from the stock sub. If I connect just the negative cable, the speaker plays. However, if I connect just the positive, nothing plays as expected. If I reverse polarity nothing plays.

I am lost as to what is going on. My next step is to attempt to tap into the sub line directly from the factory radio’s harness rather than the sub it’s self, and use either the high level input or get a line out converter. However, I am not sure it this lead is high level straight to the sub, or low level to a factory amp.

Any input or advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Looks like you are getting hit by ANC system. The factory sub is getting enough signal to be out of phase with engine noise, hence you are not hearing it. But add-on sub amplies this signal way more, hence the rumbling.

Looking at the 2009 diagrams, ANC output from audio unit to factory amp is a separate signal from SUB preamp - so hopefully preamp output is 'clean'.

What you should try:
On audio unit, locate connector B, (14P) which is second from the right.
Looking from wire side, the two leftmost pins :1(lt blue) and 8(red) are respectively SUB Pre - and +. Tap into those wires and feed them to the line level input on the add-on sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Looks like you are getting hit by ANC system. The factory sub is getting enough signal to be out of phase with engine noise, hence you are not hearing it. But add-on sub amplies this signal way more, hence the rumbling.

Looking at the 2009 diagrams, ANC output from audio unit to factory amp is a separate signal from SUB preamp - so hopefully preamp output is 'clean'.

What you should try:
On audio unit, locate connector B, (14P) which is second from the right.
Looking from wire side, the two leftmost pins :1(lt blue) and 8(red) are respectively SUB Pre - and +. Tap into those wires and feed them to the line level input on the add-on sub.
Thanks I will give that a shot.
 

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One quick correction: Connector B is second from LEFT, looking at back of the unit! Not right!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok so I tried that, and It is still doing it; however, not as loud. The sub is not playing as loud as it should either.

I found a diagram for that connector which said the remaining cables were for the ANC, so I tried having only the sub wires connected, but that only disabled the rear tweeters. I don’t think the diagram I found is correct.

Is there anyway to disable/disconnect the ANC input/output to/from the headunit altogether without replacing the headunit with an aftermarket one? I saw a video saying to cut the red wire from the front microphone and completely disconnecting the rear mic. Would this disable it, or is there a better way?

This is a 4WD Touring model with navigation, but no entertainment system. I think the diagram I found was for 2WD EXL.
 

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Just to make sure.
Looking at back of the audio unit, along the bottom, left to right, There are 5 connectors.
A: primary 24P connector: Unit power, door speaker pre-amp outputs, a couple others.
B: 14P connector: Preamp outputs for sub, center and rear surrounds.
C: 14P connector: XM module communicarion.
D: 20P connector: AUX jack, climate control display, HandsFreeLink, display communication.
G: 3P connector: AM/FM antenna.
Also, above those:
E: 16P connector: ANC mic input and ANC signal output to amplifier, a couple others.
F: 28P connector (RES communication)

In more detail:
Connector B (looking at connector from wire side, clip on top, top row left-right is pins 1-7, bottom is pins 8-14)
1 (lt blue) sub - *
2 (pink) center -
3 (blue) center +
4 (red/blk) surr left -
5 (red/blk) surr right -
6/7 - N/C
8 (red) sub + *
9/10 - N/C
11 (grey/blk) surr left +
12 (blue/blk) surr right +
13/14 - N/C

pins marked * are the wires you should have tapped into and connected to your sub 'line level' inputs.
It is expected that your signal level would differ from what you got on high level inputs - you would just need to adjust your amplifier gain.
But if you indeed get ANC output directly on subwoofer preamp, that sure sucks.

Now, a bit more about connector E:
1 (green) ANC output rear -
2 (black) ANC output rear +
4 (white) HFL/ANC front MIC +
5 (white) ANC rear MIC +
9 (white) ANC output front -
10(red) ANC output front +
11 (purple(?)) shield for pin 4
12 (green(?)) shield for pin 5
13 (purple) PCM (CSSAMA)
14 (lt blue) PCM (CSSAMC)
15 (yellow) PCM (NEP)

As you can see, front ANC microphone is same as HandsFreeLink. Meaning you can't really disconnect it without losing the HandsFree as well.
There is a way to disable ANC via diagnostic menu, but you kinda have to do it any time you start the car.
Make sure audio is off. Hold preset buttons 1 and 6 together and while holding them push power button. You enter diagnostics. Push button 1 twice, your climate display should say 'ANC OFF'
 
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