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You can actually forget the timing marks on your engine if you mark your old belt and mark your cams and crank gear to match. Then mark your new belt by counting teeth. (MIND BLOWN!) 😨
Once again very weird advice that makes the job harder than it needs to be. Marking the new belt has absolutely nothing to do with the timing of the engine. If the engine is in time, you can put the belt on anyway you want and the engine is in time. Counting teeth has zero relation to anything as long as the cam gears don’t move when you take the old belt off and put the new one on. Watch the south main video I linked earlier he does absolutely no counting of teeth in the belt as the belt has nothing to do with the timing of the engine.
 

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Once again very weird advice that makes the job harder than it needs to be. Marking the new belt has absolutely nothing to do with the timing of the engine. If the engine is in time, you can put the belt on anyway you want and the engine is in time. Counting teeth has zero relation to anything as long as the cam gears don’t move when you take the old belt off and put the new one on. Watch the south main video I linked earlier he does absolutely no counting of teeth in the belt as the belt has nothing to do with the timing of the engine.
You are correct, in a perfect world. But when you go to slip that belt over the cams, thing can move. Marking and counting teeth on the belt and applying that information to your new belt is an extra step, but it's extra security that you did the job right. There is no way to get a straight view of the back cam timing mark. Any movement of that cam can make you second guess your work. Many have guessed wrong. It's a lot harder job having to go back and fix a mistake.
I did this job recently on a Chevy Cruise, marked the old belt along with the 2 dual overhead cams and the crank gear. Brought it inside to the kitchen table with the new belt. I started counting teeth while drinking a cold one.🍺 Fun Stuff! 😀 No stress environment. ✌
 

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Do you have to mark the belt/gear - no. You can do it only using the marks. I would say try it both ways and see which way you prefer. If you want to do it great - if you don't want to great. Personally, I was thankful to the guy who showed me this method. We are talking about an extra 5 or 10 minutes of work and no real additional expense... except for Nail's beers 🍻
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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(Who here is old enough to actually remember this?)
 

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Once again very weird advice that makes the job harder than it needs to be. Marking the new belt has absolutely nothing to do with the timing of the engine. If the engine is in time, you can put the belt on anyway you want and the engine is in time. Counting teeth has zero relation to anything as long as the cam gears don’t move when you take the old belt off and put the new one on. Watch the south main video I linked earlier he does absolutely no counting of teeth in the belt as the belt has nothing to do with the timing of the engine.
This really doesn't make the job harder, what it does it provide another way to verify your timing is absolutely perfect. I do both methods - the marks AND the counting. The big benefit to counting in my opinion is to quickly identify if you're off a tooth on the side without the tensioner and between the cam gears. "Keeping it tight" should be good enough, however without knowing how many teeth there are between these points you won't KNOW that you have it perfect until you rotate the engine through twice and see that it doesn't line up. Using both methods combined essentially ensures that you can't get it wrong. You're DOUBLE checking instead of just relying on the marks. Relying on the marks is essentially a "try and check after you turn the crank" since it's impossible to know that you didn't introduce extra slack somewhere.

South Main Auto is awesome - and he can do it by the book and get it right everytime because he's seen it enough times to know if it looks like there is too much slack on one side or not. As a DIYer, you don't really have that level of familiarity or may go years between belt changes.

The point Nail Grease was making was simple - you can actually use JUST teeth counting which is true. I don't get the impression he was recommending it. I personally recommend doing the timing marks AND counting teeth because it's the absolute most fool proof method to ensuring you get it perfect every single time with zero risk of ever turning the engine over with it off a tooth or two.

My buddy and I both had Civic's that needing timing belts done. We started at the same time. He used only the book method despite me asking if he wanted to count teeth. I did my normal method with both counting AND using the marks. He finished about 15 minutes before I did. He was off a tooth. I wasn't. Obviously he misinterpreted / didn't see correctly the marks after he turned it through twice. Guess who spent more total time?
 
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So OP.., back up and running?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Every time I'm working on my Pilot and I have a problem or it doesn't go as smoothly as I planned, I say to myself: "Those guys on Piloteers said this was going to be easy!"
Was one TB change on here not long ago where the cam moved. So your worried if the cam is one revolution off, even though the marks line up (Crank rotation 2 to 1). Even if you mark the belt, if your cam moved, you got to go around twice. Then ya, I'm like 👤.
 

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Did anyone tell him that to get the idler pulley off the engine has to be jacked up a couple inches to get the bolt out? I'm in this spot right now.
 

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Did anyone tell him that to get the idler pulley off the engine has to be jacked up a couple inches to get the bolt out? I'm in this spot right now.
I'm sure OP watched DIY videos. 😓
 

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Did anyone tell him that to get the idler pulley off the engine has to be jacked up a couple inches to get the bolt out? I'm in this spot right now.
Jack up the engine? Or jack up the car? I don't remember this being part of the procedure. Is this so the pulley can clear the frame?
 

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Jack up the engine? Or jack up the car? I don't remember this being part of the procedure. Is this so the pulley can clear the frame?
To remove the engine mount on the passenger side, you must support (jack up) the engine with a jack. I place the jack under the oil pan. I use a block of wood between the jack and oil pan for padding.
 

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Did anyone tell him that to get the idler pulley off the engine has to be jacked up a couple inches to get the bolt out? I'm in this spot right now.
After I thought about it, his photo is after that step.
 

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I stand corrected, my apologies. I didn't know you could remove another bolt and drop the whole tensioner. Sorry for the confusion. I know this now.
 

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To remove the engine mount on the passenger side, you must support (jack up) the engine with a jack. I place the jack under the oil pan. I use a block of wood between the jack and oil pan for padding.
During my sub-frame spacer install it was interesting that I did NOT need to support the motor to slide the spacers in between the upper& lower motor mounts.
7D87DD03-AFFE-41E4-BDB0-74575ADC38B4.jpeg
 
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