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I currently have an 08 pilot and have had a problem over the past couple of years with the AC holding a charge. In the past the system would hold a charge for the summer and i would have to recharge it again the following summer. Now the system does not hold a charge. I had to get a state inspection so i asked the mechanic to check it out for me, let me know what the problem was and how much to fix it. He told me that one of the hoses needed to be replaced and would cost $500+ for him to do it. I have tried the UV leak detecter in the past and have been unable to find the leak. This was when the system was holding a charge and have not tried it since the system is no longer holding. Should i try the UV again or is there any easier way of determining where the leak is?
 

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My 08 pilot has been thru 2 a/c discharge hoses since I bought the car new. Same hose both times. First time was at 36,000 miles and covered under warranty. 2nd time was a few weeks ago at 100,000 miles. Went with Napa hose this last time...assuming Honda oem hose was defective. Cost to fix? $600!
 

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They said that it was $200 for the hose and about 3 hours of labor. Labor rate was $100/hr plus taxes. I saw on rock auto that i can get the suction for $32 and the discharge for $35. I usually get my parts from them. How long did it take you and how hard was it to do the discharge hose? I've handled most repairs on my own in the past on many cars. Water pumps, alternators common jobs like that
 

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Have you had better luck with the Napa discharge hose? My hose is leaking and trying to figure out if I should buy OEM or auto parts store version...
 

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There are several common points of failure due to the hoses been too thin. All those points are right where the hoses are clamped to the body. There is one on the passenger side of the engine bay and a couple on the underbody. Check out those first. Chances are you will find a leak. Unless of course it is leaking from the condenser, which is also possible.
 

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On my 08 @ 142000 now, no history of it ever replace before. I notice it's not blowing cold air at all few days ago. I checked relay is good, AC compressor runs, the only thing I see is the discharge hose is completely soaked with the oil leak. Reading this I suspect this is my issue and going to order the UAC HA 10959C A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose from amazon prime for $24 along with the vacuum machine, AC Gauges and three bottles of R134a to do a vacuum leak test once the hose is replaced and refill it once confirmed there's no vacuum leak. Also, need to att 10mL of PAG oil for line/hose replacement. That's going to be another $150 for the tools and freon for a DIY. Also, my Air Mix Control Motor been making annoying noise for past 6 months. I might go to pull apart a grab a few of them from the accords.

DIY Part List from Amazon Prime:
$24.5 UAC HA 10959C A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose
$9 Universal Air Conditioner RS 2563 A/C System Seal Kit
$8 FJC 2484 PAG Oil - 8 fl. oz.
$20 3 Cans R-134a DuPont Suva A/C Automotive Refrigerant/Freon R134a (12oz Cans)
$10 Kozyvacu R134a Refrigerant Self-Piercing Can Tap Valve with 1/4 Flare port for AUTO AC recharging, Easily connecting with Quick Coupler (Free if purchase with the repair kit)
$113 Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories
 

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There are several common points of failure due to the hoses been too thin. All those points are right where the hoses are clamped to the body. There is one on the passenger side of the engine bay and a couple on the underbody. Check out those first. Chances are you will find a leak. Unless of course it is leaking from the condenser, which is also possible.
Hey can, sorry to resurrect this but I have a 2006 and I think there’s a leak where the 2 lines are clamped to the underside of the body. How do you fix this? I tried searching but couldn’t find anything. Do you remove the clamp and splice the line to seal it? How you attach it back to the underbody?
132769

I also have another leak at a connection in the same location under the car a little bit before this clamp
132770
 

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You either replace the line, or repair. These super-tight clamps contribute to the failure of the line walls.
I recently discovered a way to fix the line w/o splicing by soldering it over with AL-3 solder from Brenzomatic. If you are inclined to do this kind of tinkering, it's an option. As to O-rings, they need to be replaced and it's tricky, as Honda uses odd sizes. You may luck out with aftermarket O-rings, or you may not.
 
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