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I know Honda recommends 0W-20 but I live in the South where it does not get all that cold. Been having some arguments with friends that own Honda vehicles and they are adamant of not using 5W-20. Friends claim the engineers know more than me, which is true. 0W-20 is better for colder climate and my other vehicles use 5w-20 and I buy in bulk. I do my own oil changes and keep receipts for oil filters and oil. Honda filters and I use Mobil 1 5W-20. Friends say it could void my warranty but I don't see how it could. By the way I change oil and filter on 6k mile schedule, just easier for me to keep up with it and always around 30%. What are your takes on this?
 

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Me thinks it also has to do with bearing tolerances, and an ever so slightly increased MPG with the 'thinner' oil.

I don't think you'll do ANY damage, however, I do my own oil changes. I try NOT to wait as long as you to do them however. I have a Gen 1 and a Gen 2. The 1 gets the 5-20. The 2, the 0-20.

It's kind of like everyone calling Coumadin/Warfarin a 'blood thinner'. It's nothing of the sort, it inhibits the extrinsic clotting pathway, increasing clotting time.
if it 'thinned' blood, could you just imagine how much havoc that would have on our physiological systems?
 

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I've had a jug of 5W20 in the garage for a couple years... I used it in our '15 that requires 0w20 this summer, it should be swapped out before the lows get too far below freezing so I'm not too concerned.


Me thinks it also has to do with bearing tolerances, and an ever so slightly increased MPG with the 'thinner' oil.

I don't think you'll do ANY damage, however, I do my own oil changes. I try NOT to wait as long as you to do them however. I have a Gen 1 and a Gen 2. The 1 gets the 5-20. The 2, the 0-20.

It's kind of like everyone calling Coumadin/Warfarin a 'blood thinner'. It's nothing of the sort, it inhibits the extrinsic clotting pathway, increasing clotting time.
if it 'thinned' blood, could you just imagine how much havoc that would have on our physiological systems?
My wife would understand what you just said, she's been complaining about her pharmacology class since finals are next week.
 
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What is your trim level, year and mileage?

By the way I change oil and filter on 6k mile schedule, just easier for me to keep up with it and always around 30%. What are your takes on this?
For starters, know that if you are changing our oil at 30% and resetting the maintenance minder system then you will NOT get notifications about scheduled maintenance. The alerts are only triggered if you wait until the 15% warning to reset. Hope you are tracking your scheduled maintenance intervals elsewhere.

As for the oil, I doubt it will make a difference in the long term, even in a colder climate. However, I stick with 0W-20 in my 2 Hondas.
 

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:rolleyes:
 

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There is a delivery/tool Ford Econoline van at my work place. Engine oil cap calls for 5w-20, but they have been filling it up with 10w-30. I heard It is over 200k miles and never had engine problems.
 

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Our dealer for a while put 5w-20 in ours claiming it worked better than the 0w-20. I’ve also screwed up and bought 5w-20 once. It won’t hurt it, though I’m not sure there is any advantage.
 

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The only reason that Honda uses such a light oil is to meet EPA requirements in the US. Hondas in the Middle East with the same engines as ours are running 15W-40. I have that in my Pilot and is runs great.
 

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You should be fine. Remember the the "0 or 5" is for cold flow viscosity characteristics and how quick it might get to the bearings etc. The "20/30/40/50" is for operating temperature viscosity. As stated the engineers take into account engine tolerances and then all the EPA mileage guidelines. The bigger the difference between the two needs better oil with different viscosity modifiers. Head over to BITOG and spend a lot more hours on all the oil nuances with great details and some good and bad discussions, plenty of personal opinions, and tested data results. I never considered NOACK results and how it might effect what involving GDI and turbo's etc.

I can tell you that 1 year old 5,000 mile non-synthetic 5w-30 triggered the VTEC system in my '04 CRV to put the car into limp home mode with CEL. New oil at 5w-20 and new filter cleared that problem.

I do know that running synthetic version oils from early on, all my motors stay clean and shiny inside with less staining and junk as compared to others of same model running dino oil with changes done more often/less mileage between.

And none of that will help when something else lets go inside motor due to manufacturer issues (new Hyundai recall) or frame and brake lines rot out from salt brine. I got 220k out of stained gold internals on my Corolla (totalled in accident) on 3k dino and cheap fram filters until I figured out whey knock was happening at start and then back to Toyota filters. '07 Sonata all synthetic for 220k and developed internal motor issue from something with balance shaft (either chain/tensioners or module/oil pump itself)
 

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I can tell you that 1 year old 5,000 mile non-synthetic 5w-30 triggered the VTEC system in my '04 CRV to put the car into limp home mode with CEL. New oil at 5w-20 and new filter cleared that problem.
Your filter choice was most likely the issue rather then the 5w-30. I fix quite a few vtc/vtc issues by removing the aftermarket filter and screwing on a Honda one. I run 5w-30 exclusively in all my/families vehs, no issues yet with multiples over 150k.
 

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I tried 5w30. I liked the quieter running engine, but their was a noticeable loss of acceleration in my 2017. Back to using 0w20. The 2012 Crosstours are now on 5w20.
 
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I know Honda recommends 0W-20 but I live in the South where it does not get all that cold. Been having some arguments with friends that own Honda vehicles and they are adamant of not using 5W-20. Friends claim the engineers know more than me, which is true. 0W-20 is better for colder climate and my other vehicles use 5w-20 and I buy in bulk. I do my own oil changes and keep receipts for oil filters and oil. Honda filters and I use Mobil 1 5W-20. Friends say it could void my warranty but I don't see how it could. By the way I change oil and filter on 6k mile schedule, just easier for me to keep up with it and always around 30%. What are your takes on this?
When you get a chance, this article will help in understanding motor oil viscosities, pressure, lubrication, etc.

 

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There is no opinion, no theory, no speculation, and no emotion involved in my Blog. Science is what provides the FACTS here, even if critics out there don’t like it. Science is the REAL DEAL, and it doesn’t care if people like it or not.

I love this site, so much information, so much testing, so much knowledge to be attained !
You can use your browser search function to find a specific oil that you use and see how it rates against other oils of the same weight or brand.

I personally use Mobil 1 oils with the latest API certification on the market in all my vehicles and have been for the past 20 years. I tend to stick with whatever weight was originally recommended by the manufacturer. The whole point of a "multi-weight" oil is so we as consumers don't have to worry about searching for different oils depending on what season it is.

Whatever function of oil you view most critical is your opinion but limiting metal on metal contact is and always will be the primary purpose of oil inside any mechanical device.
 

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I tried 5w30. I liked the quieter running engine, but their was a noticeable loss of acceleration in my 2017. Back to using 0w20. The 2012 Crosstours are now on 5w20.
I am really surprised that loss of acceleration would be noticeable. I would be more afraid of screwing up the VTEC systems on these new engines by using a more viscous oil. 5w-20 is probably OK for hot weather use but I will stick with 0w-20 for winter for sure.
 

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I personally use Mobil 1 oils with the latest API certification on the market in all my vehicles and have been for the past 20 years. I tend to stick with whatever weight was originally recommended by the manufacturer. The whole point of a 5w30 oil is so we as consumers don't have to worry about searching for different oils depending on what season it is.

Whatever function of oil you view most critical is your opinion but limiting metal on metal contact is and always will be the primary purpose of oil inside any mechanical device.
If most engine wear occurs right after start-up, what does that say about which viscosity oil you should be using?
 

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I am really surprised that loss of acceleration would be noticeable. I would be more afraid of screwing up the VTEC systems on these new engines by using a more viscous oil. 5w-20 is probably OK for hot weather use but I will stick with 0w-20 for winter for sure.
I noticed the acceleration loss when I first tried it and the increase when I went back to 0w20.
 

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If most engine wear occurs right after start-up, what does that say about which viscosity oil you should be using?
The time it takes the fluid to reach the critical friction points inside the engine. You want that time period of wear to be as low as possible so the flow rate should be as high as possible while maintaining adequate pressure

 
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