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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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Thanks for sharing. Keep the information coming!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This project isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s not hard work but it’s time consuming. A lot of steps. I probably have 10 hours into just taking it apart. Not including cleaning, having the heads machined, ordering new parts, etc. and that’s with a car lift at my disposal. Without a lift it would be possible just more tedious to drop the exhaust and do the timing belt work. Definitely plan for 12 to 15 hours of work for this job. The dealer quoted 12 hours for them to do it and that’s an experienced tech. This car also has no rust so it’s easier to take apart.

After a year of tracking misfires a coolant bleeding session led me to it being the head gasket. Hooked up the funnel and mashed the gas, coolant shot out of the funnel like a rocket pointing to exhaust gases in the antifreeze. It also had a misfire on startup after sitting. It was also filling up the coolant bottle slowly and always had pressure in the cap when I took the rad cap off.

This project makes me wonder how many are running around with a blown head gasket and don’t know why their car is misfiring. No oil in coolant. No white smoke. No major running or idling issues after start up. Heads were warped. Head gasket had failed in multiple places.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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What caused YOUR head/s to warp? It's usually an overheating issue. ?? Not saying yours had overheated, but?
Nice work btw. Good luck on the install, I'm sure it'll go fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What caused YOUR head/s to warp? It's usually an overheating issue. ?? Not saying yours had overheated, but?
Nice work btw. Good luck on the install, I'm sure it'll go fine.
I don't know what caused it, or maybe even age caused it, I'm the 2nd owner.
 

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What was your total cost on everything? Did you go with Honda gaskets? I really need to think about this when the spring rolls back around.
 

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08 EX-L, 07 LX
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What year and model? Can you tell me e casting number on your front head? It looks like your rear head is RDJ18. I think the head I got from EBay is counterfeit, so I’m researching.

141523
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I think the head I got from EBay is counterfeit
eBay has become infamous as of late for fake NGK Iridium spark plugs, among other things, so this might be the next step up for them. Or step down, to be more accurate. 😡
 

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I have had 2 vehs setting cmp codes and were hard starting, and found the cause to be a non Honda head. The dimensions were off causing the air gap between the cmp and cam gear to be to wide. Fair warning to anyone considering using an aftermarket head, buy from someone reputable.
 

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What year and model? Can you tell me e casting number on your front head? It looks like your rear head is RDJ18. I think the head I got from EBay is counterfeit, so I’m researching.
Please be wary of it, have been burnt in the past on an older Civic head - it was all 'perfect' by the seller, but was burning oil like hell after the installation and required no core.

Hope it's not the same seller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Update on this project - car is back in business so far, about 30 miles on it. We'll see how it lasts!

Took around 20 hours of work with a car lift in a garage. I would never attempt this outside, way too many steps. The car lift really only helps to take the exhaust bolts off, which aren't too bad. It also helps getting the timing belt components off and on with more ease. It can be tight down there with the car on the ground. I would say about 19 of the 20 hours the car was spent with the car on the ground. I stood on 2 of the pilot wheels in front of the car most of the time to make bending over easier.

Used OEM headgasket / OEM headbolts and oem miscellaneous seals. Started right up with no lights or anything, smoked for a little bit and then disappeared.
Power is back, runs good! Will give it some time to see how good!

Would I recommend this project to the average person? No. It's very very time consuming and takes a methodical process to make sure it all goes back together right. A lot of bolts, a lot of fasteners, a lot of parts, a good understanding of the car is needed BEFORE doing this project. If you don't understand how to do a timing belt, then don't do it. This is like a timing belt times 5 in time, complexity, frustration, etc. If you don't have a lot of tools and tool options, then don't do it. Some the bolts are hard to get access to and take creativity and good tools to reach. Order parts AFTER it's apart, because you're going to break stuff more than likely, like fragile sensors, find broken seals, etc.

Heads were machined at a machine shop at $60/head

I cleaned everything and went through 9 cans of brake clean. Don't attempt it without a factory service manual as you'll need a lot of specific torque specs. You'll need an inch pound torque wrench, a 25 to 250lb large torque wrench, a torque angle gauge or a digital one that does angle, a lot of patience and time. My biggest time saver was the Milwaukee Fuel 3/8" ratchet.

.
 

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Update on this project - car is back in business so far, about 30 miles on it. We'll see how it lasts!

Took around 20 hours of work with a car lift in a garage. I would never attempt this outside, way too many steps. The car lift really only helps to take the exhaust bolts off, which aren't too bad. It also helps getting the timing belt components off and on with more ease. It can be tight down there with the car on the ground. I would say about 19 of the 20 hours the car was spent with the car on the ground. I stood on 2 of the pilot wheels in front of the car most of the time to make bending over easier.

Used OEM headgasket / OEM headbolts and oem miscellaneous seals. Started right up with no lights or anything, smoked for a little bit and then disappeared.
Power is back, runs good! Will give it some time to see how good!

Would I recommend this project to the average person? No. It's very very time consuming and takes a methodical process to make sure it all goes back together right. A lot of bolts, a lot of fasteners, a lot of parts, a good understanding of the car is needed BEFORE doing this project. If you don't understand how to do a timing belt, then don't do it. This is like a timing belt times 5 in time, complexity, frustration, etc. If you don't have a lot of tools and tool options, then don't do it. Some the bolts are hard to get access to and take creativity and good tools to reach. Order parts AFTER it's apart, because you're going to break stuff more than likely, like fragile sensors, find broken seals, etc.

Heads were machined at a machine shop at $60/head

I cleaned everything and went through 9 cans of brake clean. Don't attempt it without a factory service manual as you'll need a lot of specific torque specs. You'll need an inch pound torque wrench, a 25 to 250lb large torque wrench, a torque angle gauge or a digital one that does angle, a lot of patience and time. My biggest time saver was the Milwaukee Fuel 3/8" ratchet.

.
Just another day at the office.
:whistle:
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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I know I'm getting too old. I have my own house/garage attached. NO lift. I have some nice ramps.

I'm contemplating doing the TB on my 08, and 15 when they need it next. I've worked on many motors in the past.
When it's time, I'll need moral support from 'the Piloteer Gang' if I attempt it though.

I do have a great independent shop that did the last one on my 08. Just more $$. than DIY
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I know I'm getting too old. I have my own house/garage attached. NO lift. I have some nice ramps.

I'm contemplating doing the TB on my 08, and 15 when they need it next. I've worked on many motors in the past.
When it's time, I'll need moral support from 'the Piloteer Gang' if I attempt it though.

I do have a great independent shop that did the last one on my 08. Just more $$. than DIY
You don't really need a lift for the timing belt job, it helps for some covers, etc. but most of your time is going to be spent in the engine bay. You will need a strong battery powered or air impact and a double walled socket, along with a aisin timing belt kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also - I'm at over 300 miles on this head gasket job and all looks and runs perfect. Did have some leak from the rear main seal, but that seems to happen at times. Hopefully it stops.
 
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