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Have you had a 6 speed transmission problem? If so was it repaired? If so how?

  • I have had a problem

  • Yes it was repaired

  • Reprogramming the TCM

  • Fluid change or multiple fluid drain and fill

  • Replaced components (Sensors, solenoids, valve body, TCM etc.)

  • Transmission was replaced

  • Yes it was repaired by some other method

  • No the problem was not repaired

  • Drained DW-1 fluid, switched to another brand solved the problem

  • Drained DW-1 fluid, switched to another brand, DID NOT solve the problem


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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We are the second owners of an 18 EX-L AWD, Bought it with a 11,000 ish miles on it and it currently has 22,000 on it. All highway miles, no towing and at least not abused by us.

Yesterday my wife came home after a 45 mile trek and said the tranny just started to shift funny. I went out for a drive with her and replicated the issue, immediately. A large shift flare occurs between 4th and 5th on the upshift, and it slams or locks up abruptly on the down shift. (hard shift?) I'll try to post a video of the instrument cluster showing the shift problem.

I took it in to the shop, to see what is up, and I'm waiting to see what code it threw.

I'm wondering if anybody else has had similar tranny issues, with the 3rd generation pilot.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Stopped in to the shop to find (they didn't give me the code it threw) that its a faulty shift solenoid. It appears they want to replace the secondary valve body, as the shift solenoid is integrated in the valve body.

I don't have access to a service or parts manual to know if the solenoid is integral, but that sounds plausible.
 

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One good thing is that should still be covered under your Honda 3 year/36000 warranty or the power train 5year /60000 mile warranty at no cost to you at a Honda dealership.
 

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Faulty shift solenoid is not unheard of, however they are not that common. I was going to suggest looking for a shift solenoid. You should have gotten that blinking 'D' on the dash with this.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can do this in your own driveway; dirty job, but not impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No blinking D. My code reader didn't find the code, unless it didn't trigger till the shop drove it. I'm fairly mechanical, and wouldn't hesitate to do it. I was just surprised they told me the solenoid was integral to the valve body.
 

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No blinking D. My code reader didn't find the code, unless it didn't trigger till the shop drove it. I'm fairly mechanical, and wouldn't hesitate to do it. I was just surprised they told me the solenoid was integral to the valve body.
I just had valve body 27700-5B7-000 replaced on my 2016 EX-L because the battery cracked and leaked acid all down onto the valve body which is covered with electronic connectors and controls the shift solenoid. Dealer's concern was that was causing misshifts with the transmission. It was about $800 for the valve body and $600 labor. You can buy the part for like $400 FYI.
 

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No blinking D. My code reader didn't find the code, unless it didn't trigger till the shop drove it. I'm fairly mechanical, and wouldn't hesitate to do it. I was just surprised they told me the solenoid was integral to the valve body.
Typically the OBD readers only pull engine trouble codes associated with a check engine light.
You need to get special commercial units ($800+) to reliably pull power train DTCs. looking at the transmission and the location of the solenoid, I think buying it and replacing it on your own would be the cheaper route. Yet again,

Funny that the same secondary valve body is on '14-'17 Accords, '13-'15 Crosstour, '11-'17 Odyssey, '17+Ridgeline.
 

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18 EX-L AWD, Bought it with a 11,000 ish miles on it and it currently has 22,000

I think buying it and replacing it on your own would be the cheaper route. Yet again,


Just curious why not just take it to a dealership and have it repaired under the factory warranty of 36 months or 36000 miles for free ????

The warranty follows the car even if you purchased it used as long as you are within the time and mileage which it appears you are.

Why mess around with it at your own cost, time, and possibility of that not even being the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The shop called, repairs are complete. Or at least new parts are installed and the vehicle is ready for pick up.

The code they pulled was P0746. They installed a new secondary valve body, which incidentally has all new clutch pressure switch's, and solenoids. The valve body solenoids are in fact integral, and didn't appear that they are removeable, well at least 3 of them appear to have no means of removal from the body.

I drove away, and to my aural and visual displeasure what did I see and hear? The sound of a shift flare, the glare of a Check engine light, and of course, the obligatory emissions light, accompanied by the whine of a 3.5l purring at 2700 ish rpms, wishing it was connected to a 6 speed manual by way of a clutch and pressure plate.

A quick 180, a flash of well warranted profane expression expressions, and gee wizzes.

Like George Carlins' maliprop Vu Ja Da...…It's back in the shop, waiting for the techs to start scratching body parts if it throws the same code.
 

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The shop called, repairs are complete. Or at least new parts are installed and the vehicle is ready for pick up.

The code they pulled was P0746. They installed a new secondary valve body, which incidentally has all new clutch pressure switch's, and solenoids. The valve body solenoids are in fact integral, and didn't appear that they are removeable, well at least 3 of them appear to have no means of removal from the body.

I drove away, and to my aural and visual displeasure what did I see and hear? The sound of a shift flare, the glare of a Check engine light, and of course, the obligatory emissions light, accompanied by the whine of a 3.5l purring at 2700 ish rpms, wishing it was connected to a 6 speed manual by way of a clutch and pressure plate.

A quick 180, a flash of well warranted profane expression expressions, and gee wizzes.

Like George Carlins' maliprop Vu Ja Da...…It's back in the shop, waiting for the techs to start scratching body parts if it throws the same code.
Good thing they test drove it to make sure of the quality of their work... sigh... is it the same part number as the one I had replaced?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Good thing they test drove it to make sure of the quality of their work... sigh... is it the same part number as the one I had replaced?
I don't know. I left the receipt and parts listing in the car. When I get it back, I'll respond.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is the secondary valve body, that didn't fix the problem. You can see the 4 solenoids on the right hand side are internal and integral. I don't know the part number.
tranny with 2ndary valve body (2).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got a good look at the removed valve body, and the residual fluid was pretty dark. It didn't smell burnt, but it was certainly darker than new DW1.
 

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Take it to the dealership since it is still under warranty. They can keep it until they fix it while providing you a loaner.
 

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Here is the secondary valve body, that didn't fix the problem. You can see the 4 solenoids on the right hand side are internal and integral. I don't know the part number. View attachment 133966
Yep - that's the one... I still don't think ion my case it really needed to be replaced but having battery acid on it can't be good, so better to fix it now than have something happen to the car in a few months that's going to cost way more to deal with - I guess... :rolleyes:
 

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18 EX-L AWD, Bought it with a 11,000 ish miles on it and it currently has 22,000

I think buying it and replacing it on your own would be the cheaper route. Yet again,


Just curious why not just take it to a dealership and have it repaired under the factory warranty of 36 months or 36000 miles for free ????

The warranty follows the car even if you purchased it used as long as you are within the time and mileage which it appears you are.

Why mess around with it at your own cost, time, and possibility of that not even being the problem.
Very Fair point. Failed to realize that the mileage was under 36K. All that stood out in my mind was that the vehicle was used; thus my remarks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I didn't mean to be non-descriptive in my original post. The factory warranty on our pilot was voided as the result of a collision insurance buy back. (Literally, 2 passenger doors, The B post wasn't even touched, no broken glass etc. The car was driven home, repaired driven for another 10k without issue.) It appeared to make great financial sense at the time. The end result was an "R" title with a voided warranty.

It never occurred to me that a low mileage Honda would experience a powertrain issue. Our older Honda's all went over 200,000 miles nearly issue free. (This Pilot is our 9th Honda car.)

I'm purchasing a dealer remanned transmission @ $4600.00. I have no idea who is remanning them. (Double what I expected, and can't find a local transmission shop that will touch a Honda AT6.) The dealer is crediting me for the secondary valve body, that we purchased that didn't correct the issue.

Is my tranny failure Incipient from having sheet metal creased? Something knocked loose in the tranny? Maybe? Possible, but not probable.
 
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