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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I've been doing some reading but havent found a complete resolution to this problem.

2017 Honda Pilot with 94k miles. I have owned the car since new and changed the transmission fluid(1x drain and fill) every 30k miles.

Recently had "transmission system trouble" alarm come and go. I have stopped driving the car til I figure out what route to take. Honda dealer says it needs a new torque converter($3400). Local transmission shop recommendeds replacing transmission and torque converter. Used transmission with 43k miles $3800 installed, new transmission from Honda $5800 installed but is on backorder with no ETA.

Loyal Honda owner but very disappointed to have this issue with 94k miles. Looking for advise of how to proceed. Considering trading in as is or making the repair.

Also after doing some reading have seen where yall putting S-VCM on the car??? Don't quiet understand its function yet but should I consider this if I decide to keep and repair it. You guys know a heck of a lot about Honda's thanks in advance.
 

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You most likely have a 6-speed transmission. They seem to have less reliable torque converters. VCM when active unlocks the torque converter, so when the VCM is cycling on/off its putting more stress/ware and tare on the torque converter. Thats why on the 6-speed many people recommend disabling the VCM. The 9-speed seems to be more reliable, but I recommend disabling on them also.
 
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Really sorry for your troubles, but yes, there is no evidence of anyone figuring out a way to overcome P0741 code without torque converter replacement. You’re likely in this position due to a torque converter clutch lock issue these early 6-speed transmissions have. This condition is caused by the extreme vibrations produced by the VCM technology in the engine that causes the back 3 cylinders to lay dormant when coasting or maintaining speed. The symptom is a fluctuation of the rpm gauge as the torque converter and clutch slip continuously. By disabling the VCM, the vibration transmitted into the transmission from the engine stops and the slipping stops. So yes, I’d disable the VCM after the repair. Wish I had better news.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I'm sorry I left some information out. EX-L package 6 speed transmission. Transmission fluid flush was with DW1.

Is it ok to change just the torque converter? Didn't know if the transmission would be the next to go since they use the same fluids.
Should I shy away from putting the used transmission/torque converter in 43k miles?
What fluid should I run next?

I will definitely disable the VCM after repairs.
 

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Yes, I'm sorry I left some information out. EX-L package 6 speed transmission. Transmission fluid flush was with DW1.

Is it ok to change just the torque converter? Didn't know if the transmission would be the next to go since they use the same fluids.
Should I shy away from putting the used transmission/torque converter in 43k miles?
What fluid should I run next?

I will definitely disable the VCM after repairs.
I would not put a used transmission in it. I fear it might have the same issue.
A new torque converter solves the trouble code.
If you have read any of my posts, I have no love for DW-1 ATF. I live in south Texas and it’s my opinion that this fluid has trouble protecting my transmission in the summer heat, much less during these hot days in stop and go traffic, hilly mountainous terrain or if towing. If you’re in these types of driving conditions, you might consider installing a transmission cooler to protect your investment. Full synthetic ATFs like Valvoline MaxLife or Amsoil Signature Series (blue) are successfully being used by many as good alternatives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for your replies. After looking at new car pricing and the confidence yall give me that a torque converter will resolve the issue I've decided to make the repair.

Should I tell the dealership I want to use a different ATF or just do a drain in fill after I get it back?

What frequency should I change the ATF after going to a synthetic fluid?

Can you recommend a specific transmission cooler?

I'm also going to have them do timing belt, water pump and tensioner while they have the car. Will disable VCM also. Thank you for yalls help
 

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Should I tell the dealership I want to use a different ATF or just do a drain in fill after I get it back?
If you do not want to use DW-1, you could ask. They may or may not be willing.
What frequency should I change the ATF after going to a synthetic fluid?
If filled with fresh DW-1, I’d plan on doing a drain and fill every 3rd oil change. The idea is to keep the fluid red/pink with a clear opacity.
Can you recommend a specific transmission cooler?
It’s more expensive, but I went with OEM because it’s very easy and convenient to install.
I'm also going to have them do timing belt, water pump and tensioner while they have the car. Will disable VCM also. Thank you for yalls help
On the timing belt job, I’d make sure all the components are replaced as follows.., timing belt, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and water pump. I’d ask them to drain the radiator at the same time the water pump is pulled to refresh the coolant with 2 gallons instead of just one.
 
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