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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just picked up my new 2017 Pilot EX-L AWD, so I'm back on the boards and ready to mod! First up, was removing the stock tweeters to improve the soundstage. I chose the JL Audio C2075CT's for their silk dome, smooth sound and 3/4" sizing. Now on to the installation:

Remove the A pillar: Gently pry open the SRS Airbag panel on the top of the pillar. Behind it is the sole 8mm bolt. Pull the panel free and disconnect the tweeter.

Remove the tweeter: Using a small flat head screwdriver, gently pry back the three tabs holding the tweeter in its housing.

Remove the tweeter housing: Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the sole screw holding in the housing. Gently pry the housing out of the pillar.

Modify the tweeter housing: Using a Dremel, slightly enlarge the opening. Do not take off too much as you want a snug fit for the JL Audio tweeter mount bucket.

Install new tweeter mount: Mount the new bucket into the stock tweeter housing. Reinstall the assembly into the pillar. Use the provided hardware to secure the bucket in place and reinstall the removed screw.

Install Tweeter: Twist lock the new tweeter into its mount and position the logo. Plug in the provided crossover and wiring.

Final Assembly: Since there are no wire adaptors yet for this location, you will have to use a simple line tap to provide the signal. Once tapped, test the tweeter before installing pillar. If it works, then snap the pillar back in place and reinstall the bolt and finish panel.

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Discussion Starter #3
At first, I didn't have a problem with the stock tweeters other then them being slightly tinny and harsh. Having the JL's though, wow, what a difference. They are super smooth and the sound is tremendous. I honestly don't think I've done such a simple upgrade that has yielded such an amazing difference. The sound seems to come from all over the front now.
 

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At first, I didn't have a problem with the stock tweeters other then them being slightly tinny and harsh. Having the JL's though, wow, what a difference. They are super smooth and the sound is tremendous. I honestly don't think I've done such a simple upgrade that has yielded such an amazing difference. The sound seems to come from all over the front now.

Thanks for the overview, i might have to do this now. Was it difficult? I have never replaced speakers before, do you think a beginner could do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would put this one at a skill level of 2 out of 10 provided you have a Dremel or rotary tool of some sort. The only tricky part, which is actually super easy, is patiently removing material on the OEM tweeter mount to allow the JL Audio tweeter bucket to slide in. Use the round sandpaper insert and the job will be done in under 30 seconds.
 

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are the speakers the same between all models? Wondering how different they are in the Elite.
I wonder the same. My Touring is on order and I am curious if these would be a big improvement for the Touring too? Does anyone know? I will obviously listen to them when I get the vehicle in my possession. However, if I found a good deal on the tweeters, I might want to pick them up and have them ready in the event that I felt the Touring tweeters were harsh. I can always return them and deals do not come around often-- but seem to occur a lot this time of year. . .

Any info from current Touring drivers would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The speakers are different, save for the sub:

Pilot EXL and below:

Tweeters: Pioneer 39120-T2A-A01 ($13.92)
Doors: Pioneer 39120-T2A-A21 ($31.75)
Sub: Alpine 39120-TG7-A01 ($93.47)

Touring and Elite:

Tweeters: Panasonic 39120-TG7-A11 ($16.13)
Doors: Panasonic 39120-TG7-A51 ($20.07)
Sub: Alpine 39120-TG7-A01 ($93.47)
 

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The speakers are different, save for the sub:

Pilot EXL and below:

Tweeters: Pioneer 39120-T2A-A01 ($13.92)
Doors: Pioneer 39120-T2A-A21 ($31.75)
Sub: Alpine 39120-TG7-A01 ($93.47)

Touring and Elite:

Tweeters: Panasonic 39120-TG7-A11 ($16.13)
Doors: Panasonic 39120-TG7-A51 ($20.07)
Sub: Alpine 39120-TG7-A01 ($93.47)
Thanks, Ironchef! I'm anxious to finally get to hear mine. Hopefully in the next by Friday-- otherwise I will have to wait until after my Christmas traveling. . .
 

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Here's a tear-down on the factory tweeter in the Touring. I take that term very seriously. :grin: Paper balanced dome, in case you can't tell. And a ferro-fluidic voice coil.

( I was trying to see if maybe I could re-use the stock grill, but that was a no ). That's a 2.2 microfarad capacitor that's acting as a high-pass filter. Dunno what equalization is being done at the factory external amp, and I wish I did. I do know it has DSPs.

factory_tweeter - 1.jpg

factory_tweeter - 2.jpg

I blacked out Polk DB1001 tweeters with flat enamel and secured them into the OEM bezel with hot glue. I'm currently using the 12dB/octave passive crossover that came with the tweeters but I'm not completely satisfied with the equalization so I'll probably dig into it again. The tweeters are a huge improvement in clarity and presence, but they must be much more efficient than the OEM ones so they are a bit overpowering. There is a jumper wire on the crossover I can clip to drop the level 3dB, but I'm not there yet. Next step is Polk component front door speakers, and then try to get the equalization ironed out.

tweeter_compare - 1.jpg

installed_polk_tweeter_back - 1.jpg

installed_polk_tweeter - 1.jpg
 

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Here's a tear-down on the factory tweeter in the Touring. I take that term very seriously. :grin: Paper balanced dome, in case you can't tell. And a ferro-fluidic voice coil.

( I was trying to see if maybe I could re-use the stock grill, but that was a no ). That's a 2.2 microfarad capacitor that's acting as a high-pass filter. Dunno what equalization is being done at the factory external amp, and I wish I did. I do know it has DSPs.

View attachment 98250

View attachment 98258

I blacked out Polk DB1001 tweeters with flat enamel and secured them into the OEM bezel with hot glue. I'm currently using the 12dB/octave passive crossover that came with the tweeters but I'm not completely satisfied with the equalization so I'll probably dig into it again. The tweeters are a huge improvement in clarity and presence, but they must be much more efficient than the OEM ones so they are a bit overpowering. There is a jumper wire on the crossover I can clip to drop the level 3dB, but I'm not there yet. Next step is Polk component front door speakers, and then try to get the equalization ironed out.

View attachment 98266

View attachment 98282

View attachment 98274
Is it corrects that the Touring has larger tweeters? The previous post said .75". From what I can tell, the Polk tweeters are 1". is that correct? Thanks for your post. I love reading about mods. It is helping to tide me over while I wait for my pilot to be delivered.
 

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Is it corrects that the Touring has larger tweeters? The previous post said .75". From what I can tell, the Polk tweeters are 1". is that correct? Thanks for your post. I love reading about mods. It is helping to tide me over while I wait for my pilot to be delivered.
The cone of the "semi-dome" tweeter from the Touring measures 1" and the Polks are advertised as 1". But I'm not sure how much that size matters for the OEM system. Dome vs cone or semi-dome probably matters more, because that has a big effect on dispersion. The Polk is a soft dome tweeter.

If my math is right, with a 4 ohm impedance and 2.2 microfarad cap, the high-pass filter is rolling off 6dB/octave starting above 12kHz, so by the time you get into the 1.5kHz upper midrange where a larger tweeter might actually have an advantage, the stock passive crossover has rolled off the response by more than 18dB. But as I hinted before, I'm not sure what active equalization is being done to compensate for this. The cap is really there to keep the tweeter from frying ( a so-called bass blocker). If the objective were a nice smooth midrange, I think the crossover point should be lower. But then you would need a decent tweeter that wouldn't distort the minute you feed it some power. And you would need decent amps that wouldn't clip the bass and dump lots of midrange clipping harmonics into the poor tweeter. :eek:
 

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The cone of the "semi-dome" tweeter from the Touring measures 1" and the Polks are advertised as 1". But I'm not sure how much that size matters for the OEM system. Dome vs cone or semi-dome probably matters more, because that has a big effect on dispersion. The Polk is a soft dome tweeter.

If my math is right, with a 4 ohm impedance and 2.2 microfarad cap, the high-pass filter is rolling off 6dB/octave starting above 12kHz, so by the time you get into the 1.5kHz upper midrange where a larger tweeter might actually have an advantage, the stock passive crossover has rolled off the response by more than 18dB. But as I hinted before, I'm not sure what active equalization is being done to compensate for this. The cap is really there to keep the tweeter from frying ( a so-called bass blocker). If the objective were a nice smooth midrange, I think the crossover point should be lower. But then you would need a decent tweeter that wouldn't distort the minute you feed it some power. And you would need decent amps that wouldn't clip the bass and dump lots of midrange clipping harmonics into the poor tweeter. :eek:
Thanks Wanderer! It's clear that you have a great working knowledge of physics regarding sound. Are you by chance an engineer?

Thanks again for your contributions to they forum. Your knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated!
 

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Wanderer, it sounds like from your assessment that the tweeters and he door speakers are both probably receiving a full range signal and then using a filter at the speaker to cut out unwanted frequencies. I'm wondering (besides the power difference) if it would be advantageous just to run a full set of components with a crossover and use a single pair of the wires. This would allow the speakers crossover to do the work.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wanderer, it sounds like from your assessment that the tweeters and he door speakers are both probably receiving a full range signal and then using a filter at the speaker to cut out unwanted frequencies. I'm wondering (besides the power difference) if it would be advantageous just to run a full set of components with a crossover and use a single pair of the wires. This would allow the speakers crossover to do the work.
IMO, I and others have tried upgrading the door speakers in the past and the result is less bass and reduced sound output. Full signal or not, the power is simply not enough to drive your new speakers properly.

About the only benefit would be to drop in coax's in the rear doors for those of us without the factory rear tweeters. There will be a bit of a surround sound benefit for those that prefer their sound to be all around them like a movie, rather than a front soundstage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here's a tear-down on the factory tweeter in the Touring. I take that term very seriously. Paper balanced dome, in case you can't tell. And a ferro-fluidic voice coil.

( I was trying to see if maybe I could re-use the stock grill, but that was a no ). That's a 2.2 microfarad capacitor that's acting as a high-pass filter. Dunno what equalization is being done at the factory external amp, and I wish I did. I do know it has DSPs.

I blacked out Polk DB1001 tweeters with flat enamel and secured them into the OEM bezel with hot glue. I'm currently using the 12dB/octave passive crossover that came with the tweeters but I'm not completely satisfied with the equalization so I'll probably dig into it again. The tweeters are a huge improvement in clarity and presence, but they must be much more efficient than the OEM ones so they are a bit overpowering. There is a jumper wire on the crossover I can clip to drop the level 3dB, but I'm not there yet. Next step is Polk component front door speakers, and then try to get the equalization ironed out.
Not to offend, but this should have been placed in your own thread. The title of this thread is "JL Audio Tweeter Upgrade," and now it has specs, photos, installation and opinions regarding Polk units. Car audio can be confusing and daunting enough for some, let alone to have mixed data on one thread.
 

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IMO, I and others have tried upgrading the door speakers in the past and the result is less bass and reduced sound output. Full signal or not, the power is simply not enough to drive your new speakers properly.

About the only benefit would be to drop in coax's in the rear doors for those of us without the factory rear tweeters. There will be a bit of a surround sound benefit for those that prefer their sound to be all around them like a movie, rather than a front soundstage.
Do you think that loss of power is due to most speakers being 4 ohms and the factory speakers being 2 ohms, effectively cutting down the power from the amplifier? Or do you think it is related to the factory DSP being tuned for the speakers?
 

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Wanderer, it sounds like from your assessment that the tweeters and he door speakers are both probably receiving a full range signal and then using a filter at the speaker to cut out unwanted frequencies. I'm wondering (besides the power difference) if it would be advantageous just to run a full set of components with a crossover and use a single pair of the wires. This would allow the speakers crossover to do the work.
It's not clear how "full-range" the signals are to the tweeters and door speakers, especially for Touring & Elite with the external amp. In the Acura ELS system, there is a heck of a lot of processing that happens at the DSPs in that external amp, including active equalization for the different factory speakers, different equalization profiles for different audio sources, and even overall volume control. The overall design appears to be similar in Pilot Touring/Elite, but how much tuning was done for the factory speakers in the Pilot's acoustical environment is unknown.

Empirically, I'm hearing a lot of upper midrange after replacing the factory tweeters, and I can sorta corroborate that with a spectrum analyzer app on my phone. ( BTW there is one heck of a mid-low frequency noise floor with the engine running at idle ).

Unfortunately, I don't have the test equipment to test frequency response at the speaker wires ( and I would probably fry something if I tried... this isn't my profession, I'm just a big-time science geek and long-time audiophile ), so I'm stuck with speculating. Here's a link to a discussion on AcuraZine initiated by someone who actually knows something. But again, it's not clear how much of this applies to Pilot.

My ELS Audio upgrade, ELS preamp - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

Back to tweeters and crossovers, the Polk DB1001 tweeters came with 12 dB/octave passive crossovers and there is another set of passive crossovers in the unopened box with the Polk DB6502 component door speakers ( along with a different set of tweeters.... ), so I don't necessarily have to fish new wires. That might be a way to get around factory active equalization, but the door speakers might not be getting the full high-frequency spectrum. They are 6.5" "woofers", not co-axials. Just dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Do you think that loss of power is due to most speakers being 4 ohms and the factory speakers being 2 ohms, effectively cutting down the power from the amplifier? Or do you think it is related to the factory DSP being tuned for the speakers?
Good aftermarket speakers generally have increased magnetic control over the voice coil, which may also be larger. Further, they may employ stronger materials, such as the cone and surround which also can consume more energy to move the same distance. All this results in a more controlled sound that when powered appropriately, can sound amazing.

And yes, the lower resistance can absolutely result in a perceived louder speaker at the same volume setting.
 
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