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Yes, you wouldn't have a problem if every time you get in the car you take your phone out and plug it in to be charged. However, majority of people take shorter commutes on a day to day basis and do not plug there phone in but still would like features of apple car play. This is why Apple has already introduced wireless car play and manufacturers are working very hard to bring it to market. Alpine has already done so and BMW already is having it in their 2017 vehicles. Sooner than later wireless charging will also make the charging cord obsolete.
Is it possible putting in an aftermarket head unit like Alpine in our Pilot? It seems like all the car settings and what not are deeply integrated into the OEM head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Is it possible putting in an aftermarket head unit like Alpine in our Pilot? It seems like all the car settings and what not are deeply integrated into the OEM head unit.
Car settings are saved on the car not the head unit. The wifi isn't even in the headunit. After I swapped out my headunit my IP address was still the same. My radio stations were still there so radio stations aren't even saved on the headunit. The only thing you can't do after switching to an aftermarket is make changes. But once I got my vehicles settings set I changed changed it since the first week of purchasing the car.
 

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The only thing you can't do after switching to an aftermarket is make changes. But once I got my vehicles settings set I changed changed it since the first week of purchasing the car.
I would think not having access to user settings might be an impediment to sale of the vehicle. And perhaps an issue with sharing the vehicle with other drivers. I wonder if firmware updates to other embedded devices would be possible without the OEM headunit. ( Like maybe if a transmission and its embedded controller need to be replaced... ). Communication with all the other embedded devices ( computers ) in the vehicle pretty much defines "integrated" IMO. But I didn't design the thing. It's possible those updates can be done through a "scan tool". Dunno.

At least it's not a Tesla. I don't think those will even move without a functioning OEM headunit. But they might move without a functioning driver. :eek:
 

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@Anekin007 or @Wanderer or any other adventeruous soul...

Do you guys have any details or pics on how to remove the electrical ribbons (for someone who has never removed a ribbon before)?

Did you disconnect the battery at all?

How did you "discharge the static electricity" before handling the black box?

Thank you guys so much!
 

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To be clear, I haven't pulled the black box in my 2016 Pilot, and I probably won't do so. ( I just don't feel a compelling need for CarPlay ). But I have yanked apart quite a few computers, most of them my own, and they usually work after I put them back together. And I have yanked headunits in some of my older vehicles. The biggest difference is that the connectors in cars almost always have a catch that needs to be released on the connector. You can pretty much count on it. And it isn't always obvious how to release it.

So:

#1 Find the catch on the connector, and get it to release while you pull the connector out.

#2 Don't pull on the wires, pull on the connector. Yeah, I know the darn thing won't release. But don't pull on the wires! If you pull apart the crimp at the connector, you have turned a small problem into a huge problem. Wiring harnesses for cars are expensive and you ( or a shop ) would have to pull the whole dash apart to replace it.

#3 Get a flashlight or headlamp and look for the catches on the connectors again. And fish around with your fingertips until something moves when you push on it. Isn't this fun?

#4 Touch anything metal in the car interior to ground yourself before you start yanking, but I think this is the least of your worries.

#5 Disconnecting the negative ground cable at the car battery is a very good idea. Maybe move that to #1.

#6 Save the beer until after everything is wrapped up. Trust me.
 

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Took the plunge!

I took the plunge and installed a 2017 head unit (39542-TG7-A12) in my 2016 EX-L (non-Nav). Many thanks to Anekin007's instructions!

Here are my takeaways:

1) The trim removal tools are a huge help! See Anekin007's original post.

2) The instructions you need for getting all the trim pieces removed are linked below. (Again, thanks to Anekin007!). I would recommend printing them out, as it's easier to refer to while you're working.
Audio Unit Removal and Installation (8in screen)
Dashboard Center Middle Trim Removal and Installation
Dashboard Side Lid Removal and Installation
Driver's Dashboard Lower Cover Removal and Installation - for this process, this piece just has to be detached along the top, not completely removed.
Passenger's Dashboard Trim Panel Removal and Installation
Dashboard Center Panel Removal and Installation

3) The bolts to loosen just prior to removing the head unit are further recessed than they appear in the service drawings. You may need a box-end wrench (8mm, I believe) to loosen them. I had a ratchet driver and it was a pain to contort through the openings. If I had a "short" extension (1") for my driver, it would have been just about right. Again, you don't have to remove these bolts, just loosen them. When you can spin the washer freely, that's good enough.

4) When pulling out the old head unit, use a very wide trim tool along the top of the screen, toward the corners. Pulling gently with that tool plus your hand along the underside of the unit will let it come straight out. Once you get it loose and the air vents are free of the dashboard, it comes out quite easily.

5) The connectors are keyed so it's pretty easy to get things plugged back in correctly. Make sure you locate the release tab for each connector and pull only on the connector, not the wires!

6) The flexible circuit connectors from the head unit to the screen are fragile. The best way to unlatch the connector is with a small plastic trim tool. Slide it under the black part of the lock tab along the edge where the flexible circuit exits, and gently raise it up, like a lever. When you put it back together, just ensure the flexible cable is laid straight into the connector, and sits down in the grooves of the connector - then close the latch and it should be good to go. Pictures are attached...



7) Once you get things powered back up, you'll need to clear the power-up diagnostics. (Thanks to wendellb for the tip!) I made a video of the process:

8) My system seemed to work fine without changing the microphone. But, for good measure, I changed it anyway since it was cheap enough to not fret over. (The 2016 model is 39180-T0A-R01 and the 2017 model is 39180-TLA-A11). This mic lives in the roof console where the map lights, HomeLink transmitter, and "conversation mirror" are located. There are some small mechanical differences between the two. They are the same form factor and are easily swapped out, but the aperture for the mic changes from a pair of "curved slots" in the 2016 model to a pair of concave depressions with small holes in the center for the 2017 model. Not sure how much it changes the characteristics of the audio it captures, or the sensitivity - but there are visible differences between the two. Instructions for changing out the mic:
Roof Console Module Removal and Installation (optional, but may be easier for some)
ANC-Active Sound Control Microphone Removal and Installation

9) I found that the only USB port that works with Android Auto is the left-most one just below the head unit. It's a 1.5A port, which at first disappointed me since I thought I might need the extra power for charging my phone. But, as it turns out, my phone still charges even with AA running full bore, including music & navigation.


Overall, I am very satisfied with the upgrade - well worth the money saved vs. buying a 2017 EX-L. Android Auto is great, and getting better rapidly! The navigation is super-smooth and having handsfree access to Google Play Music and Google Now is awesome!
 

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I did it too! 2016 Elite (so with Nav). Works like a charm.

Huge thanks to Anekin007's original instructions, and BlueBass99's added tips just above. (especially the #6, flexible circuit connector latch tabs).

I'd link to their posts, but I'm too new on the board to include links.

I put the new mic array in too, since it was relatively inexpensive and I'd like better noise canceling from the new model. (Not sure if its better -- I didn't do a/b testing like I should have.

Built-in NAV still works fine, but I plan on using CarPlay instead.
 

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Hopefully someone will be able to flash the 2017 image/files over to the 16. Apparently as Anekin has said its the exact same thing as far as the hardware is concerned. Fingers crossed!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Not that I know how, by god I wish I did but I wish that this could be done. It just sounds to easy considering the hardware is the same and the mic doesn't really cause an issue.


It's been years since I messed with android rooting, but is nandroid backups still a thing. If this system runs off android why couldn't the 17 image be downloaded and installed on a 16. LOL, I'm back to doing research after a long hiatus from rooting and such.
 

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I did it too! 2016 Elite (so with Nav). Works like a charm.

Huge thanks to Anekin007's original instructions, and BlueBass99's added tips just above. (especially the #6, flexible circuit connector latch tabs).

I'd link to their posts, but I'm too new on the board to include links.

I put the new mic array in too, since it was relatively inexpensive and I'd like better noise canceling from the new model. (Not sure if its better -- I didn't do a/b testing like I should have.

Built-in NAV still works fine, but I plan on using CarPlay instead.
Is the elite navigation system for the 2017 the same as the non-elite ones? Or are there two models? Can you post a link to the one you bought? Thanks!

-Ken
 

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My understanding is the Elite has a different unit than the other trims.

The black box part number for the 2017 Elite that I put in my 2016 Elite is: 39542-TG7-A52

Looking on hondapartsnetwork [dot] com (as an example) it shows different part numbers for the black boxes for different trim levels. I did not compare them all, but I believe I saw different numbers for Elite vs Touring vs EX-L w/ Nav.

I think I'm too light on my post count to be able to post a link. Go to Honda parts network, or another, and look up your trim-specific black box to make sure.
 

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My understanding is the Elite has a different unit than the other trims.

The black box part number for the 2017 Elite that I put in my 2016 Elite is: 39542-TG7-A52

Looking on hondapartsnetwork [dot] com (as an example) it shows different part numbers for the black boxes for different trim levels. I did not compare them all, but I believe I saw different numbers for Elite vs Touring vs EX-L w/ Nav.

I think I'm too light on my post count to be able to post a link. Go to Honda parts network, or another, and look up your trim-specific black box to make sure.
Hey Adam,

Thanks! That part is $1400.... wow that is so pricey....
 

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backup 2017 to 2016 potential?

Hi All,

I found a video of a different type of HU being backed up.

Anyone willing to try to make a backup of their 2017 unit and then anyone willing/able to restore to the 2016 unit?

https (colon) //www (dot) youtube (dot) com/watch?v=HM4mWvgCnpU

BTW.. thanks for all the great work and feedback on this topic.
 

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Hi All,

I found a video of a different type of HU being backed up.

Anyone willing to try to make a backup of their 2017 unit and then anyone willing/able to restore to the 2016 unit?

https (colon) //www (dot) youtube (dot) com/watch?v=HM4mWvgCnpU

BTW.. thanks for all the great work and feedback on this topic.

I believe that the real issue is we don't (yet) have root capability on the 2016 or 2017 head units. If we did, then we could get around the app whitelist that is preventing Android Auto (or any other apps for that matter) from being sideloaded directly on the 2016 box. Nandroid requires root, so that's not yet an option either.
 

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I believe that the real issue is we don't (yet) have root capability on the 2016 or 2017 head units. If we did, then we could get around the app whitelist that is preventing Android Auto (or any other apps for that matter) from being sideloaded directly on the 2016 box. Nandroid requires root, so that's not yet an option either.
We've had that for months. Here's Waze on my 2016
 

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That's nice! do you have to have the factory navi for the GPS to work? I have a 2016 EXL with no navi so wondering if Waze will work for me.

I believe that the real issue is we don't (yet) have root capability on the 2016 or 2017 head units. If we did, then we could get around the app whitelist that is preventing Android Auto (or any other apps for that matter) from being sideloaded directly on the 2016 box. Nandroid requires root, so that's not yet an option either.
We've had that for months. Here's Waze on my 2016
 
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