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I finally took the plunge. After months of searching for a used unit, I finally got one from Benzeen Auto Parts in Rancho Cordova, CA. I bought the 39540-TG7-A13 from a 2018 Pilot EX-L. Got the headunit 2 days after I ordered it. Last night was the perfect night for the install.

With the help of postings from this forum, I was able to remove my old HU in about 15 minutes. Unluckily or luckily, while i was removing the 2 8mm bolts, my socket fell so I had to remove the lower trim with the USB ports - 4 screws. This actually created more space for me to use an extension ratchet to remove the 2 8 mm.

The only drawback was the unit I bought had scratches on the screen so I had to swap out the screens. Just a friendly tip when replacing screens, remove the bottom plate of the radio unit and remove the ribbon wires (2) from the bottom before you detach the screen. This will make swapping the screens easier and clipping the ribbons back in place. Putting the HU and all the trims back was manageable. If not for the display swap, install would have been a lot easier.

After powering the unit on, it immediately asked for the security code. I did go to Honda Radio / Navigation Code Retrieval and Reset Instructions and put in the VIN supplied by Benzeen as well as the serial number. Based on a tip from another user in this forum, the serial number to input is the digits without the first digit and the alpha characters. 3 possible codes were generated. After 2 tries, my HU unlocked and my $ 449 investment was all worth it.

All my previous settings were back. I just needed to add my phone to get CarPlay. I did not replace the mic. Everything went well. Postings in this forum really helped a lot.

Thank you to all the contributors.
Hi,

I had installed a display unit from a 2017 model that supports CarPlay, unfortunately it didn't work for me, was wondering if you had to change the USB port or anything to do with the USB port?

Thanks,

Haz
 

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It only connects to CarPlay using the left USB port that is under the radio. No changes were made other than the stereo unit itself.
 

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Hey All, I wanted to say thank you for all the information provided in this thread. I recently bricked my 2016 EX-L Head Unit by rooting it, and I had to replace it with something else. I wanted to add in my experience. Some of this info may be repetitious, and some is the little "gotchas" that I came across along the way. To be specific, I upgraded from 39542-TG7-A11 (2016 EX-L no RES/ no NAV) --> 39542-TG7-A13 (2018 EX-L no RES/no NAV)

1. Rooting via HondaHack appears to be relatively safe, but I think I got into trouble when I also added SuperSu and also BusyBox. I was attempting to install Viper4Android and remove the crappy factory DSP/EQ settings from my radio. Also, Android Auto with the amazon dongle does "work", but it's not very elegant. I didn't find it reliable enough that I would want to live with it every day. That's just one man's opinion.... At the end of the day, I borked my device screwing with this stuff, and ended up with a 2018 head unit anyway, which appears to be much more reliable.

2. Ordering a new head unit from LKQOnline was relatively painless from a process perspective. The hard part with this process is that the part numbers and item descriptions are all over the place. The part I ended up ordering was listed like the below. As you can see, no honda part number at all. There was the part number for the 2016 non-NAV head unit listed in the description 39542-TG7-A11, but that isn't what they sent me. What I actually received as 39542-TG7-A13. It has already been said previously, but I will stress it again, this site is a crap shoot. You really have to check the details before you order. If you are not sure, I don't think calling them will help. Probably better off coming here and asking for advice from the hive mind IMHO....

Description
Qty
Price
~299094922 - Radio Audio
Radio - Audio Video Equipment PILOT,4DR,EXL W DISPLAY SCREEN, DASH MOUNTED, (US MARKET), 8.0 SCREEN
YMM Fits: 2018 Honda Pilot​
1 EA​
$277.80​

3. The part I received was an exact replacement for my radio, meaning it was a clarion unit with the same exact plug configuration as my existing radio. As long as you stick between 2016-2018 and match your trim level, this should be plug and play. That being said, the part they send me was cosmetically NOT GOOD. The radio screen had a bunch of scratches, the bezel was chipped up, and the mounting brackets were bent to hell. Be prepared to swap out all these parts from your existing radio (Unless of course yours are in worse shape). Swapping the screen is not hateful, but it is going to take patience if you are not comfortable with electronics. You have to take the top off the radio unit and disconnect two ribbon cables to remove the screen. Not very hard, but not for the faint of heart either. Interesting tidbit, they sent me ALL of the wiring connectors as well. Looks like they just yanked the radio out of the dash and cut the wires off instead of taking the time to unplug them. Having these wires may come in handy. I have plans to try and power it on my work bench and unbork the radio. So far, I can't figure out the secret sauce to make this think come alive on a straight 12v power supply, but that is a conversation for another thread.

4. The Anti Theft code was interesting. I used the site previously quoted on here with success Honda Radio / Navigation Code Retrieval and Reset Instructions. The primary thing I noticed here is that it DID NOT MATTER which VIN I used on this site. I tried it with both the VIN of my vehicle and that of the donor car, and the codes produced were identical. The second code I was given worked like a charm! The largest gotcha here is the serial number of the radio. The sticker on it has a long alphanumeric number on it: ABCEFG123456789 When inputting that into the website, you have to omit the first seven characters: 23456789. That's the only way this works. No idea what the logic is behind that one.

5. After install and code input, the radio comes to life, but it has all the settings from the previous user. At this point, it's probably best to just go to the factory data reset option, and wipe this thing clean. I don't need random person's iphone settings on my radio, or the violet background colors, or the wrong time zone....

6. Only other really annoying thing is the android auto. For some reason, when I first fired up, the volume was all the way down. I struggled for a moment thinking something was wrong. Then I realized I just needed to turn it up to hear it. This lead me to the discovery that when I am in Amazon Music, there is no indication of what the volume currently is. It is not showing on the Driver's information screen and there is no Volume indicator on the screen for android auto. That is really annoying to me, but it is what it is. I have not yet figured out if this is by design, or a byproduct of this hacky little endeavor of making a square peg fit into a round hole. Losing the read outs on the driver information screen was unexpected, but I rarely used that anyway, so not a big loss for me. Just be aware that that appears to be a thing when you change radios to a newer model. I'm using an Alpine PWD-X5 in my system, so I have the annoying byproduct of two separate volume controls for my stereo as it is.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Sorry if I repeated information, but I hope this is as helpful to someone else as it was to me.

Thanks!
 

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Losing the read outs on the driver information screen was unexpected, but I rarely used that anyway, so not a big loss for me.
Great recap of your experience; but, if you find, in your adventures of getting the unit to work the way you want, that you're able to restore the driver's information screen connection, I'd appreciate that info. I liked this feature of the 2016/2016 match in my Pilot and do find it annoying that going to the 2016/2017 setup has taken that away.
 

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*** Just wanted to thank all the posts in here that help me buy the right unit and install it pretty easy in my 2016 Honda Pilot EX. Bought a unit from car-parts.com ($320 with screen) from a 2017 pilot EX-L w/out nav or RES. PART# 39540-TG7-A12 replacing my original #39540-TG7-A01. I received the new unit with the screen detached and was worried that one of the ribbons was out at one end from the receiver and thought I wouldn't be able to connect it back when I'll put the screen back on the receiver, BUT I found answers in post #107, I took the screws out from the bottom of the receiver and the cover came off, and that's how you connect the ribbon back after you attach the screen. I hope I was clear in my description....

I'm also attaching some pics...

The only thing that I've noticed is that sometimes the phone S21+ didn't connect right away and I need to keep unplug it and replug it back and then it connects to Android Auto... Don't understand why...

In rest it just works fine 😁📱

I watched this video for the removal...

Hi @Mikeyx31
Thanks for the write up. I have a 2016 EX also and am looking to pull the trigger and replace the head unit. Did you lose any functionality? Specifically did you lose the right turn camera on the head unit? My wife loves that and it would be a deal breaker.
 

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I have a question. I got a problem replacing my 2016 radio (39540-TG7-A11, no NAVI) with 2017 radio (39540-TG7-A11). I bought the 2017 radio from LKQ and I am surprised that it shares the same model number with my 2016 radio. Taking out the radio is not that difficult, after reading the instruction from this thread. When I start my car with the 2017 radio, I only see the lighted buttons on the left and the screen is all black. There is no Honda logo at start, no backup camera view, and no passenger side camera view. I try power+menu+brightness. Nothing comes up. Then I hit somewhere in the middle and I hear a ding sound. Looks like I am still able to access to diagnostic screen with black screen. Does it mean the screen is bad? Does it happen to anyone before?

Thanks.
 

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Took the plunge!

I took the plunge and installed a 2017 head unit (39542-TG7-A12) in my 2016 EX-L (non-Nav). Many thanks to Anekin007's instructions!

Here are my takeaways:

1) The trim removal tools are a huge help! See Anekin007's original post.

2) The instructions you need for getting all the trim pieces removed are linked below. (Again, thanks to Anekin007!). I would recommend printing them out, as it's easier to refer to while you're working.
Audio Unit Removal and Installation (8in screen)
Dashboard Center Middle Trim Removal and Installation
Dashboard Side Lid Removal and Installation
Driver's Dashboard Lower Cover Removal and Installation - for this process, this piece just has to be detached along the top, not completely removed.
Passenger's Dashboard Trim Panel Removal and Installation
Dashboard Center Panel Removal and Installation

3) The bolts to loosen just prior to removing the head unit are further recessed than they appear in the service drawings. You may need a box-end wrench (8mm, I believe) to loosen them. I had a ratchet driver and it was a pain to contort through the openings. If I had a "short" extension (1") for my driver, it would have been just about right. Again, you don't have to remove these bolts, just loosen them. When you can spin the washer freely, that's good enough.

4) When pulling out the old head unit, use a very wide trim tool along the top of the screen, toward the corners. Pulling gently with that tool plus your hand along the underside of the unit will let it come straight out. Once you get it loose and the air vents are free of the dashboard, it comes out quite easily.

5) The connectors are keyed so it's pretty easy to get things plugged back in correctly. Make sure you locate the release tab for each connector and pull only on the connector, not the wires!

6) The flexible circuit connectors from the head unit to the screen are fragile. The best way to unlatch the connector is with a small plastic trim tool. Slide it under the black part of the lock tab along the edge where the flexible circuit exits, and gently raise it up, like a lever. When you put it back together, just ensure the flexible cable is laid straight into the connector, and sits down in the grooves of the connector - then close the latch and it should be good to go. Pictures are attached...



7) Once you get things powered back up, you'll need to clear the power-up diagnostics. (Thanks to wendellb for the tip!) I made a video of the process:

8) My system seemed to work fine without changing the microphone. But, for good measure, I changed it anyway since it was cheap enough to not fret over. (The 2016 model is 39180-T0A-R01 and the 2017 model is 39180-TLA-A11). This mic lives in the roof console where the map lights, HomeLink transmitter, and "conversation mirror" are located. There are some small mechanical differences between the two. They are the same form factor and are easily swapped out, but the aperture for the mic changes from a pair of "curved slots" in the 2016 model to a pair of concave depressions with small holes in the center for the 2017 model. Not sure how much it changes the characteristics of the audio it captures, or the sensitivity - but there are visible differences between the two. Instructions for changing out the mic:
Roof Console Module Removal and Installation (optional, but may be easier for some)
ANC-Active Sound Control Microphone Removal and Installation

9) I found that the only USB port that works with Android Auto is the left-most one just below the head unit. It's a 1.5A port, which at first disappointed me since I thought I might need the extra power for charging my phone. But, as it turns out, my phone still charges even with AA running full bore, including music & navigation.


Overall, I am very satisfied with the upgrade - well worth the money saved vs. buying a 2017 EX-L. Android Auto is great, and getting better rapidly! The navigation is super-smooth and having handsfree access to Google Play Music and Google Now is awesome!
I know it has been few years since you posted this. I am looking to do this soon. I can't get access to the docs for some reason. Can you share the links you have with the PDF for me to download?
 
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