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Update for you all, install was quick and easy. Just took my time with disconnecting the connectors on the radio. Honda trim removal is really easy and the VIN with no letters & without the first number worked great, first number the website gave me worked. Overall very pleased I have Apple Play in the family Pilot. Highly recommend this route for anyone considering it.
 

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Note if u want navigation here are the model numbers
2016
EX-L W NAVIGATION
39540 TG7 A21 RMD (REMANUFACTURED)
39542 TG7 A21 (ORIGINAL)
39541 TG7 A12 DISPLAY SCREEN AND VENTS

TOURING
39542 TG7 A41 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
ELITE
39542 TG7 A51 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN

2017
EX L W NAVIGATION
39542 TG7 A22 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
TOURING
39542 TG7 A 42 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
ELITE
39542 TG7 A52 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
2018
EX L W NAVIGATION
39542 TG7 A24 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
TOURING
39542 TG7 A44 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN
ELITE
39542 TG7 A54 BLACK BOX
39541 TG7 A12 SCREEN

RMD IS THROUGH DEALERSHIP OR WHEN UR CAR IS UNDER WARRANTY AND IT WAS REPLACED WITH A REMANUFACTURED ONE SO IF U SEE RMD AT THE END IT MEAN IT WAS REPLACED UNIT
THE DISPLAY SCREEN IS THE SAME FROM 2016 AND THE UNITS COMES WITH VENTS
HOPE THAT KINDA CLEAR THINGS UP
Hello, I came across 39540-TG7-A42 not listed on oa1583's list and is supposed to be a 2017 touring, could it be a remanufactured model? Would it work like an original or is it any different? I have a 2016 touring
 

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Those who have installed 2017 head unit in 2016, have you noticed any issues with the head unit recognizing your iPhone when you connect it? My wife has been complaining about since I did the upgrade last week and I tested it today myself.

So the first time I got in car and connected my iPhone XR to the lightening cable connected to the left USB port (the on closest to the power socket) the head unit detected it right away and started Apple CarPlay. Then during the drive I stopped and removed the phone. After that when I connected the phone it just couldn’t connect. The phone would charge but the head unit doesn’t recognize it as connected and keeps saying “no device is connected”.

Tried disconnecting and reconnecting, connecting to the second USB port but nothing worked. Tried my wife’s phone and same results all the time the phone showed charging so the cable was working.

Then after another break connected the phone and CarPlay came online without any issue.

Anyone else has seen this issue? Is it because the cable connected the USB port to the radio isn’t supporting CarPlay?
 

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Those who have installed 2017 head unit in 2016, have you noticed any issues with the head unit recognizing your iPhone when you connect it? My wife has been complaining about since I did the upgrade last week and I tested it today myself.

So the first time I got in car and connected my iPhone XR to the lightening cable connected to the left USB port (the on closest to the power socket) the head unit detected it right away and started Apple CarPlay. Then during the drive I stopped and removed the phone. After that when I connected the phone it just couldn’t connect. The phone would charge but the head unit doesn’t recognize it as connected and keeps saying “no device is connected”.

Tried disconnecting and reconnecting, connecting to the second USB port but nothing worked. Tried my wife’s phone and same results all the time the phone showed charging so the cable was working.

Then after another break connected the phone and CarPlay came online without any issue.

Anyone else has seen this issue? Is it because the cable connected the USB port to the radio isn’t supporting CarPlay?
Make sure you are using the official Apple white charging cable that came with your iPhone. Sometimes cheaper cables don't work as well when it comes to the data connection.

I am using an aftermarket cable, but it definitely isn't the cheapest option out there. Experiment with the official cable first before going aftermarket.
 

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Make sure you are using the official Apple white charging cable that came with your iPhone. Sometimes cheaper cables don't work as well when it comes to the data connection.

I am using an aftermarket cable, but it definitely isn't the cheapest option out there. Experiment with the official cable first before going aftermarket.
That was my first guess as well and I believe it is an OEM but I guess I will invest in an genuine cable just to confirm. Those damn things aren’t that cheap :)
 

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Purchased and installed black box p/n 39542-TG7-A14 with all the great information in this thread. Android auto works great. If anyone wants to tinker with my old one from a 2016 non-Nav EX-L, I'll send it for the price of shipping.
 

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I just finished installing an used unit from a 2017 Pilot Touring into my 2016 Pilot Touring. The new model is 39540-TG7-A42 and I can confirm it works great. Now I need to get used to Carplay which, so far it is fun.
I now have a 2016 unit in perfect condition for sale LOL. By the way, the microphone also works great.
Thank you ALL who participated in this educational chain.
does the DVD player features work with no problem also?
 

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Does the 2018 work as well with no issues? Is there any difference between the 2017 and 2018 units?
 

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Purchased and installed black box p/n 39542-TG7-A14 with all the great information in this thread. Android auto works great. If anyone wants to tinker with my old one from a 2016 non-Nav EX-L, I'll send it for the price of shipping.
Hi, I will be interested in your old black box. How can I get that ?
 

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Purchased and installed black box p/n 39542-TG7-A14 with all the great information in this thread. Android auto works great. If anyone wants to tinker with my old one from a 2016 non-Nav EX-L, I'll send it for the price of shipping.
Hi nu8reed, the model number looks like a 2018 EX w/o navi or RES...does it work well with your 2016 Pilot? Also do you have a pix of the back of the unit? I have a 2016 Touring and am looking at that part number. I assume it will not have RES plugs but I never use the RES. Thanks!
 

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Hi nu8reed, the model number looks like a 2018 EX w/o navi or RES...does it work well with your 2016 Pilot? Also do you have a pix of the back of the unit? I have a 2016 Touring and am looking at that part number. I assume it will not have RES plugs but I never use the RES. Thanks!
That's correct, I have an EX-L without nav and RES. It's been working great. I don't have any pictures but I don't remember seeing any unused plug ports. Also, I think Touring and Elite models use a different part number.
 

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Hello, I have a 2016 EX w/ Sensing. On Hondapartsnetwork the 2017 (39542-TG7-A02) is $1,172 and the 2018 (39542-TG7-A04) is $688. Does the 2018 work as well as the 2017 on the 2016? At half the price it would be a good savings.
 

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After reading through all the posts it seems like the EX and EX-L head units work for both models. Can others confirm? I have an EX and found a used EX-L 2018, will it work?
 

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Does the 2018 work as well with no issues? Is there any difference between the 2017 and 2018 units?
I have a 2016 Elite and I am also looking at getting either a 2017 or 2018 elite head unit and wondering the same thing about compatibility. Did you find the answer?
 

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I recently put a 2018 EX-L non-navi headunit in my 2016 EX. Thanks Anekin, Miketurbo, Wootek, and many others for the valuable info you posted. I have been using it for about a week now and it has been working great. I have noticed some of the smaller things like volume display doesn't pop up when using steering wheel control in carplay only, I would also say the phone sounds a little tinny through the apple carplay vs. bluetooth but that may be some settings I need to adjust. Other than that it has worked as advertised, very happy! The 2018 part number I used was a 39540-TG7-A13.

I tried to swap my 2016 screen on the 2018 unit (2018 unit was purchased used from part store and had a scratch in it) but getting the head unit open was super challenging w/ tiny screws that were very tight. Anyone have a recommendation for screwdriver or way too loosen these?

Couple tips:
  • To get the two bolts at the back of the head unit, if you take off the piece right below the climate control you can easily get a ratchet w/ socket and extension to the bolts. Makes it much easier to loosen and tighten.
  • Be very careful w/ the soft materials around the vents, I made a small mark by pushing too hard w/ plastic removal tool
  • Plastic removal tools are super helpful and definitely download the service sheets
  • Take pictures of your serial number as you will need that for the code
  • Have a towel or something soft ready when you pull the head unit out so you don't scratch the screen when you are disconnecting.
 

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hi all.

I have a 2016 honda pilot ex-l w/ RES , which model would i need for my upgrade to get carplay, while still keeping my REs. ??

thank you in advance...
 

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Your best bet would be to Look on hondapartsnetwork w/ your vehicle type just using a 2017 or 2018 model year to get part number
 

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Hi All,

Did Anyone installed the head unit on 2017 LX model?
The one came with the car is the basic one which does not have even touch screen.

Thanks
 

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hi all.

I have a 2016 honda pilot ex-l w/ RES , which model would i need for my upgrade to get carplay, while still keeping my REs. ??

thank you in advance...
I successfully completed the swap this past weekend for my 2016 EX-L w/ RES. I was lucky enough to find one from a 2018 Pilot EX-L w/ RES on car-part.com. The 2018 part number is 39540-TG7-A33, model number PH-3701. The unit was listed for $375, but the screen was scratched up so I got them to knock off $100 and I used my existing screen.

I want to thank everyone on this thread for all of the helpful information, especially Anekin007 for this thread and the link to all of the service info bulletins that show how to remove each piece of trim. I also found BlueBass99 post #107 really helpful for listing which service bulletins were necessary and his description and pictures of the ribbon cables when swapping screens.

Here's a couple of notes from my experience
  • Like everyone else, I had a hard time getting to the 8mm bolts that hold the radio in place. I was able to do the driver's side bolt without too much trouble, but the DVD player had extra cables in the way adding more difficulty to the passenger side bolt. I ended up removing the entire Glove Box assembly which was not very difficult (Glove Box Removal and Installation) and this gave me better access to the bolt. I would stress that you do NOT have to remove the bolts all the way. They just need to be loose enough to pull the radio out.
  • When removing the actual unit from the screen, you do NOT have to detach the side vents like the Audio Removal and Installation bulletin tells you to. Once you remove the single screw they are still attached by 6 or more tabs and you need 8 arms working in sync to free them all at the same time.
  • There is a significant difference between a regular EX-L unit and the unit for EX-L w/ RES. I'm posting a picture below that compares the back of them and you can see the RES unit has two extra connections.
  • DEFINITELY disconnect the ribbon cables (two of them) before trying to detach the unit from the screen. Once you remove the 8 screws holding the cover on, the cover still needed a bit of force to pry it up. BlueBass99 did a good job describing the cable connection, but it was still hard to comprehend how they were being held in until I successfully disconnected. The connection is made up of a white plastic piece and a black plastic piece. The black piece flips up at a 90 degree angle along the long edge where it is connected to the white piece. I used two tiny precision flat-head screw drivers to get under each end and lift it up. You can see from my pictures the end of the cable itself is completely flat.
  • After the cables are disconnected and you have removed the screws (6 I think) holding the unit to the screen, there are still several pesky tabs coming from the unit that are secured by the plastic case holding the screen. Again, you need to be able to free several of these at one time to free the unit from the screen. I wedged several screw drivers under them. I believe there are two on each side, two in the corners on the bottom side (where the cover was), and one in the middle of the top side.
  • Finally, once all was in place I said a prayer and turned it on. I did have to enter an anti-theft code (see post #282 from miketurbo), but after that everything worked!
Comparison of EX-L unit from Anniken007 on top to my EX-L w/ RES on bottom
Compare.jpg


Removal of the Glove Box assembly
133729


The two 8mm bolts seen from the Glove Box cavity
133723


Three white tabs along the top of the screen that give you the last resistance once you've loosened the 8mm bolts
133722


The two ribbon cables that have to be disconnected from the screen.
The copper cable is still secured in this pic, but I have the black piece
flipped up on the white cable.
133725



The end of the ribbon cable once it has been released
133726


One of the metal tabs on the bottom of the unit locked in place by the plastic case
133727


Two metal tabs on one side of the unit
133728
 

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