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I've seen people talking about this here and about their being information on the Facebook Group but thought people might like a writeup here. It's a technically easy job just lots of bolts to keep track off so organization is key. It doesn't require much in the way of tools just patience, time, a place to work and maybe a beer.

Tools:
  • 10 mm socket
  • Ratchet + Extension
  • Tiny Flat screwdriver
  • Plastic! Pry Tools
  • Delicate Tape
  • Some spare pieces of wood
  • Bean bag or soft place for Front bumper
Optional:
Before installing the lights I cleaned and polished any bugs, scratches and marks off the lenses. I then used [Meguiar's G17804 Keep Clear Headlight Coating] to put a clear coat on them. This was my first time using this stuff and according to what I've read online you use it once a year and you don't have to restore faded or oxidized headlights in the future.


Required:
I bought the headlights and wiring harness off ebay. For the wiring harness [6spd_ek] was amazing to work with! He contacted me to verify that I actually ordered the correct part and it turned out I had not. There is an EX/ELX/Touring version and an Elite version, I ordered the Elite, oops. I also thought I had a problem when connecting it up as the blinker was running fast, turned out the front blinkers are on the bumper not the headlights, oops. All in he was super fast and even called me when I had a question. Here's his ebay link.

6spd_ek on eBay


Prerequisite :
Also I used the videos from DIYHonda to figure out how to remove the bumper and headlight, I recommend watching those as there is a ton of good information and my write up is more of a supplement.


2016 2017 2018 Honda Pilot - How to Remove Front Bumper Cover Removal Install Replace Replacement

Honda Pilot 2016 2017 2018 2019 Headlight Removal How to Remove Replace Install

Testing
So originally I wanted to test the headlights and wiring harness out before I went through all the trouble of removing the front of the car, especially since I was just buying random stuff of ebay. I very quickly learned there is no extra room or extra cable to make that happen. End the end I just had to hope everything worked...That said we are in love with the end results.

Before/Afters
I'll start with the before/after photos. They are not taken in the same place as my wife has been parking there but wow night and day. Sorry for the pun.

Original Lights
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LED Lights
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Here's the before/after beauty shots.

Original Lights
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Original Lights On
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LED Lights On
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On to the build, I didn't take pictures of the front grill cover but just pull up on it and maneuver it around the hood latch handle.

Remove the Chrome Grill trim 10 mm bolts.
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Anytime I'm prying on something I put on 3M Delicate Surface Tape. In the video he only pries at the top above the light but I put one at the top then a second pry tool to the side. I found the clips under the trim very easy to snap. If the trim clips break you can purchase the bracket from Honda for ~$18 online. You will need a left and a right and the entire light assembly has to come out to change them. The lights I received from ebay had one broken and while cleaning the second light I barely touched the clip and it broke. So I had to transfer the ones from my original lights. A note on that, the screw holes are into hard clear plastic. It is super brittle, make sure when your screws are going in straight. If you feel any resistance and or hear a popping or creaking sound you are cutting new threads, that will likely crack the screw post.

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Once the front chrome trim piece is off it's time to remove the front bumper. Use the small flat screw driver to pull up the push pins. I actually have the proper tool...from Honda...but find using the screw driver causes less damage to the pins.

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To remove the grill there are two tab on each side that have to be pushed down on. To do this you need a block of word for each side, this provides resistance to prevent the bumper from reattaching, and either a long near dow or very long screw driver. The bottom tabs I could only really see looking in from the back.

This is the top tab and watch the push clip looks like.
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....so I can only attach 10 photos, proceed on to Part Deux.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Part Deux....The search for more attachments.

Here's the location of the second tab when viewed from the back. I couldn't get a good top down shot the garage didn't have enough light and I didn't have my portable shop light.

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This is what the bumper looked like with the sticks sticking out.

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Keep them in while you work around the side.


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The photo above only shows two of the screws, I want to say there were three maybe....eh....a fourth screw to remove.

Then pull on the black trim to remove it. If it hangs at the bottom you have to kinda tilt it out. If the clips don't want to come out easily you push the wheel well trim in and push the yellow clips out from the back.

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Remove only the lower bumper screw.

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Again, I taped up where I was going to be prying on paint and if possible you really only want to pry where the taps are. To help you grab the side of the lower bumper and pull it towards you while prying.

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Move to underneath the car, on either end are two 10mm to remove, two 10mm towards the middle and four back 10mm to remove. The rest are push pins. I have them all marked in the next photos.


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Below is just a close up of the same back four above in those divots.

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It's a good idea to take lots of photos from underneath as there are parts of the front bumper that go under the under-pan curtain and parts that go above it.

Once removed you just kinda pull on one side then the other to get the bumper off. It can be done single person without scratching the bumper but it's not the most fun, I recommend a friend helping. There are three cables to disconnect before you can totally remove the bumper.

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Continue on to part tree (Three)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Part three....

Here's the bumper resting on a bean bag.


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Notice on the lights there are two silver and one black screw, I believe it's only cosmetic but just so you know. Of course there are all 10mm as well.

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On either side of the radiator are two push pins to remove from the lights.

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Under each light the wiring harness is attached to two posts, it's a whole lot easier to remove those now. Also, don't be like me and think oh I can unbolt the light from the L-brackets and remove them...No just like in the above video you do need to unbolt the L-brackets from the car and then later unbolt them from the lights.


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So again, don't do the red ziggy lines, do the yellow circles.

When removing the lights, in the video it sounds like you just have to lift up the back. In reality yes but only a little. There are also pens that go into the side panels.


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What I couldn't get a photo of while removing is that there is still a piece above the radiator in-front of the light. Very carefully pull that out while removing the light.

Here I tested both lights and wiring harnesses before installing, a small concession but something.....

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Both worked, back to the original lights.

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Remove the two bolts holding the L-brackets to the lights (Yellow) in the red remove the push pin.

As well, install the chrome trim brackets from your original headlights if you need to. At this point you start working backwards. Test your lights as you go but remember your blinkers are on your bumper and will not work properly until attached.

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Continue to Part Four!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Part Five, really 10 attachments?

Again everything buttoned up!

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I felt like if I didn't include this at the end I would leave people hanging.

All in all I think I took maybe three hours but I was in no rush occasionally talking to the blind guy and doing other chores.

Enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool! How much did you pay for both light units?
Too much, all in wiring harness and lights $900. I will be selling my original lights so that will offset the cost but looking into the aftermarket stuff I just wasn't happy with those solutions. I've reached the age where I don't mind modding stuff and tinkering, but I do mind doing it more than once.
 

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Very good write up and excellent pictures to go along with what you did!

Hopefully others who want to do something like this will find it helpful.
 
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Nice job documenting this! It's too much $ for me to consider doing, but it really does like nice and it seems like the light throw / total lumens is improved.
(y)
 

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Very well done, should be a great resource for those with an early 3rd gen wanting to upgrade!
 

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Very nice write up. Have you considered doing the tail lights also?
 

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I read that it’s plug and play. I’ve been keeping my eyes on eBay for a set.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I read that it’s plug and play. I’ve been keeping my eyes on eBay for a set.
So I was looking. The price per part is not horrible but of course almost all are damaged in some way. The nice part is unlike the headlights our taillights sell for about the same amount on eBay.
 

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Excellent write-up and thanks for doing this. I do like the 2019 headlights and taillights better than my 2016's.
 

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Kaos2800, Great write up! A lot of work, but I am sure a lot of money saved! The 2019 LED bulbs are brighter. How many cases of beer will it take to change mine?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Kaos2800, Great write up! A lot of work, but I am sure a lot of money saved! The 2019 LED bulbs are brighter. How many cases of beer will it take to change mine?
Ha! It’s not that bad actually. I say a 6 pack of a good quality micro brew high IBU IPA
 

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What state are you in? I live outside Philadelphia, PA. I own a 2017 Pilot AWD EX-L Did you see the Service Bulletin 19-073 about the Fuel Injectors? I do not have any issues, but I think I will call the dealership.
 
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