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Discussion Starter #1
The main homelink button my wife uses to open her garage door seems to be dying. The other buttons work fine (immediate red light when pushing), but her button only goes active/red sometimes on first hit. Other times it’ll go after massaging it a bit to make contact, but hs generally become unreliable to the point we put the old clicker back on the visor.

Anyone else have this? Any guides out there to opening this up to clean contacts or replace the unit?
 

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The main homelink button my wife uses to open her garage door seems to be dying. The other buttons work fine (immediate red light when pushing), but her button only goes active/red sometimes on first hit. Other times it’ll go after massaging it a bit to make contact, but hs generally become unreliable to the point we put the old clicker back on the visor.

Anyone else have this? Any guides out there to opening this up to clean contacts or replace the unit?
Ironic you posted this, as I've ran into the same thing on my 2017 these past two weeks . It's still under warranty so I might take it in. I also thought about reprogramming the rolling code on that button thinking maybe that has something to do with it.

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Our main Homelink button stopped working on our 2017 Touring at about 1.5 years old, so we just programmed another to open/close the garage door. We are getting it fixed under warranty this Tuesday, but my understanding was that they had ordered a whole unit to replace the current one.
 

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Same issue on our 2017, it just quit working...I can not for the life of me get the other buttons programmed....I just threw an opener in the car for now
 

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Just ran into this on my 2017 PILOT EX-L this winter. Thought it might be due to the extreme cold weather but has continued to be hit or miss on getting it to work. Glad I checked here.
 

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We’ve had the same problem on our ‘16 LX w/ Navi. The ‘massaging’ has slowly become less effective.
Having a little electronics experience, I decided to tackle fixing it, figuring it was feasible.
Getting to the Homelink module is not too difficult. The overhead ‘console’ is held in place by four screws. Two are accessible from the sunglass compartment. The other two are within the map light ‘wells’. The lenses for those can be pried off by gently prying down at each of the ‘pivot’ points (two per lens).
Once the overhead console is free, you’ll want to unplug each of the connectors. That’s pretty straightforward.
I first tried blowing air into the problem switch thinking some dust or lint had gotten in there. That didn’t help. I looked at the four solder connections through a magnifier but couldn’t see any problem. I went ahead and resoldered all four.
I believe that has solved the problem. I can once again touch any of the three buttons gently with my knuckle and the light comes on immediately (and the respective opener activates, of course).
Here are links to pictures I took during the process.
4 C6 A2 D4 D 5 FD2 489 E 81 CE 61 F4 A6984 F22 — Postimage.org
D1750 AE1 0 E01 4813 B816 6 A9 B672 D2594 — Postimage.org
D82 EFD26 1805 4559 8 F44 46 DDE0 F0 ED95 — Postimage.org

Bob
 

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I have the same issue twice and it is no longer under warranty. I have had some other glitchy electrical items such as phone hook up, acceleration issues and rear hatch working sporadically. Very frustrating!
 

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So hears what I think is happening to these, If the problem is isolated to the #1 button and the other buttons work. The board the micro switch is on is not properly supported and the console button actually ends up pushing the board into the module case making it so the console button can’t reach the micro switch.
to remove the overhead console open sunglasses compartment and you’ll see two black trim screws, next have a plastic pry bar ready, push on the courtesy light and hold it in the up position, you’ll then be able to pry the plastic cover off, remove the bulbs, the other two screws (silver)are located inside, the whole unit should just fall out now. Each plug needs to be removed. The one in the back is tricky. I used some small 90 degree needle nose to get it out and reinstall. and then remove the module from the unit, two screws. The module is just held together with two plastic clips.
There are two plastic tabs the circuit board is supposed to rest on. The end where the “other” side is, has the second board plunged in to the side, actually supporting it. On the #1button side the wiring harness plug blocks the board suppport from engagement. So eventually the board gets pushed in and the activation button on the counsels can’t reach it. I put a small piece of high density foam under that side of the board and reinstalled it. Working fine for several days now. I know it’s a hack but.....photo 1 is the side clip holding the module together. Photo 2 you can see the mis-fitment, button 1, button 3 is where the two boards join together, the 3rd photo I added foam, I ended up cutting it in half before final reinstall, it was a litttle too thick, also notice the tabs the board is supposed to rest on.
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