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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some background information:
I have kept up with all the maintaince. I did the timing belt and coolent around 105k or so. When ever I had that done at the honda dealership they had left their tool inside my engine bay and it cause the fan to not spin and overheat mid drive. The coolant cap also popped off and threw coolant all over the engine bay. I had it towed back to them. They took care of the car and was fixed within a few days. They said something along the lines of everything in the engine looks good, it has great compression and everything. I got the car back and it ran great, didnt notice anything wrong with it. It ran smooth

Now I am at 130K miles and its been just over a year since this has happened. I was driving home one day and the engine just shut off randomly. I did some tests and I have come to the conclusion the engine is done for. The starter wont start it. It get hot and smokes if i hold the start on for too long. I can't even turn the engine over with a breaker bar taken to the crank shaft. I took it to a nearby mechanic and he told the the same thing. The engine is toast. Tomorrow I'm towing the car to the same dealership that messed up my car to see if that once incident from a year ago caused premature wear on the engine components.

Can anyone with mechanical knowlege give me their opinion on if that one incident that happened around 105k could have lead to this? I just need to know if this was just my fault of my driving it and it was going to happen regardless of the overheating or if it was the overheating issue that happened last year.

Thank you in advance.


149462


3.5in Lift Kit from Traxda (Yes that's my car on their page)
 

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Sounds like the dealership error back at your 105k service caused a severe episode of overheating. I hope this was documented on the service record (it should be). Severe overheating can cause damage to wearing parts and bearings and seals and gaskets that cannot be seen without a complete teardown and examination, which is just not practical. Severe overheating can cause warping and distortion to cast assemblies. The J-engine is a great all-aluminum engine, but overheating is not good for aluminum assemblies. Just what did the dealer do to "fix" the overheated engine after you brought it back at 105k? In my opinion, the overheating could have damaged the engine internals. If you have maintained the engine properly since then, it should not have locked up after 25k miles, unless the damage was already done.

There are some professional Honda techs on this forum, perhaps they could weigh in with their opinion on this issue. I would hope that the dealership will be helpful with resolving the problem. Start there, and give them a chance to correct the issue. It is also possible to appeal to Honda above the dealership level, if you feel that you are being disregarded. Perhaps other Piloteers have some experience in this line to add.

NIce looking Pilot! I hope that this works out for you.
 

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Yea, good compression doesn't mean a bearing didn't suffer enough damage to start failing or something rubber like the new timing belt didn't get damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like the dealership error back at your 105k service caused a severe episode of overheating. I hope this was documented on the service record (it should be). Severe overheating can cause damage to wearing parts and bearings and seals and gaskets that cannot be seen without a complete teardown and examination, which is just not practical. Severe overheating can cause warping and distortion to cast assemblies. The J-engine is a great all-aluminum engine, but overheating is not good for aluminum assemblies. Just what did the dealer do to "fix" the overheated engine after you brought it back at 105k? In my opinion, the overheating could have damaged the engine internals. If you have maintained the engine properly since then, it should not have locked up after 25k miles, unless the damage was already done.

There are some professional Honda techs on this forum, perhaps they could weigh in with their opinion on this issue. I would hope that the dealership will be helpful with resolving the problem. Start there, and give them a chance to correct the issue. It is also possible to appeal to Honda above the dealership level, if you feel that you are being disregarded. Perhaps other Piloteers have some experience in this line to add.

NIce looking Pilot! I hope that this works out for you.
Thank you for the response. Just what I wanted to hear :)
 

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Would a single fan not kicking on cause the engine to overheat that bad on a single normal trip? (Assuming it was not a long one)
I can see something jamming/breaking the serp belt causing that much problems.
 

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Would a single fan not kicking on cause the engine to overheat that bad on a single normal trip? (Assuming it was not a long one)
I can see something jamming/breaking the serp belt causing that much problems.
The serpentine belt is not critical to engine cooling. It drives the alternator, the AC compressor, and in some years, the power steering pump. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. The radiator fan is electrical. If the dealer mech left a tool in the fan housing and it was jammed, and the owner was stuck in slow traffic on a hot day (no air flow cooling) on the way home, it's very possible that the engine overheated to the point of blowing out the coolant. And if the owner is stuck on the freeway, with no place to pull over, forced to drive for another mile or so, you have a severe overheat situation.
 

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So, a tool blocked both efans?.....did I miss where the temp gauge indicated overheating in advance of severe overheating?....the radiator cap popped off throwing coolant rather than releasing coolant to the bottle?.....what kind of “tests”?......the starter motor gets hot/smokes from turning the motor over?......a year later the dealership should make everything good based on posts in a forum? Hum......scratchin’ head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Would a single fan not kicking on cause the engine to overheat that bad on a single normal trip? (Assuming it was not a long one)
I can see something jamming/breaking the serp belt causing that much problems.
One fan was the one with the tool. It drove fine for a day. The next day it blew the relay so both didn't work. That's when it overheated
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, a tool blocked both efans?.....did I miss where the temp gauge indicated overheating in advance of severe overheating?....the radiator cap popped off throwing coolant rather than releasing coolant to the bottle?.....what kind of “tests”?......the starter motor gets hot/smokes from turning the motor over?......a year later the dealership should make everything good based on posts in a forum? Hum......scratchin’ head.
Tool blocked one fan. After a while it blew the relay. I'm assuming the coolant got too hot and popped off the radiator cap where the coolant leaked all over the engine bay.
By "tests" I meant checked for fuel pump and battery. Etc.

I'm not asking the dealership to make everything okay. I'm asking the forums about the time where the dealership made my car severly overheat. And if that could have lead to premature wear for it to cause the engine to seize a year later.
 

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I don’t think the engine would have lasted 30K miles after overheating if the overheat episode caused damage. If the engine internals were damaged by overheating, it would have made very noticeable noises, bearing knock or something that would have alerted you to a problem. Most likely cause is a sudden lack of lubrication due to low oil level or oil pump failure.
The most likely result of overheating would be warping a cylinder head causing a blown head gasket which is why they did the compression test. I suppose a weakened head gasket could start leaking coolant into the crankcase but this would make the engine oil look like a chocolate milkshake and should have been caught at when the oil was drained at the next oil change.
 

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I'm not asking the dealership to make everything okay. I'm asking the forums about the time where the dealership made my car severly overheat. And if that could have lead to premature wear for it to cause the engine to seize a year later.
I don't think you'll find anyone who would say there is no way those two are connected other than the dealer.

@Slvr7 and @STMech are two of the more commonly posting mechanics.

For my at home mechanic self, I say that yes, the overheat condition caused damage that has finally culminated in a failure.
 

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If it was severely overheated it most likely shortened the engines life. But in what way, far to many questions with no way to accurately answer or prove any of them. I would not expect locking up thousands of miles later to be caused by that though, that's generally an indication of a lubrication issue.
 

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Tool blocked one fan. After a while it blew the relay. I'm assuming the coolant got too hot and popped off the radiator cap where the coolant leaked all over the engine bay.
By "tests" I meant checked for fuel pump and battery. Etc.

I'm not asking the dealership to make everything okay. I'm asking the forums about the time where the dealership made my car severly overheat. And if that could have lead to premature wear for it to cause the engine to seize a year later.
Did the temp gauge never rise thus giving a warning? I thought each fan had a relay/fuse, no? Did a/c performance drop? (one fan only) Radiator cap shouldn't pop....it should release pressure to the bottle once 16 psi is reached. As Slvr7 said, far to many questions.
 

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Did the dealer offer any sort of warranty as a result of the issue?

Otherwise, I'm guessing taking the vehicle back to the dealer that did the initial repair is going to result in an inspection and a response of, "Nope, not our fault. But I'd like to introduce you to one of our sales team members who would be glad to show you options for a new Pilot."
 

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Having spent several hours per day on the Ridgeline Owners Club forum for nearly 15 years, I've noticed an interesting pattern... I've seen FAR more engine failures AFTER timing belts were replaced than failed timing belts due to maintenance neglect. In fact, I don't think I've ever read of a timing belt failure before replacement - at least on the ROC forum. I'm NOT suggesting that anyone avoid replacing the timing belt based on this observation.
 

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Now that is very interesting.👍
 

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Having spent several hours per day on the Ridgeline Owners Club forum for nearly 15 years, I've noticed an interesting pattern... I've seen FAR more engine failures AFTER timing belts were replaced than failed timing belts due to maintenance neglect. In fact, I don't think I've ever read of a timing belt failure before replacement - at least on the ROC forum. I'm NOT suggesting that anyone avoid replacing the timing belt based on this observation.
It would be interesting to find out, if water pumps, and or tensioners were also changed out along with the timing belt replacement service?
 

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Good luck proving the dealer messed it up ~20k miles after you had the service done.

I know people on here are generally against dealerships, but I don’t think something was done wrong.
 
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