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My Pilot started falling when it hit 40k.

-2015 2wd Special Ed.
-Original Owner
-In S. Florida (warm weather)
-Driven approx 1k/mo

2mos ago, started a 30sec clicking noise from center dash when ignition started. Rear Blower Motor issue (happens even if rear a/c off). Decided to wait on repair since was told not dangerous.

Today, veh won't start. Key button only opens driver door, all lights work, brake pedal stiff, a bunch of dash lights on when key turned but nothing else happens. Ignition wont make any sounds.

Suggestions? Related to rear blower motor, battery, blown fuse....????
 

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Watch battery terminal voltage as you try to crankthe starter. Your symptoms say battery is not holding a charge or you have bad connections at the battery. Battery voltage should be 12.5 or higher at rest, driop no lower than 11 while the starter is engaged. Much less, or the chatterng starter relay and solenoid both say not enough voltage to crank.
 

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Watch battery terminal voltage as you try to crankthe starter. Your symptoms say battery is not holding a charge or you have bad connections at the battery. Battery voltage should be 12.5 or higher at rest, driop no lower than 11 while the starter is engaged. Much less, or the chatterng starter relay and solenoid both say not enough voltage to crank.
I agree with Dr Bob. Most likely the Battery. I would see if the vehicle can be jump started. If the vehicle starts, it’s your battery( Especially if it’s the orginal battery) If the vehicle does not start, focus on the starter as the possible issue.
 

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Battery just crapped out on me last week in my 2015 Pilot- S. Tx head-totally dead, needed a new battery. And go figure, out of warranty.
 

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Most likely the battery. Especially if it's a 2015 model which was made in 2014. The other possible suspect would be the starter.
 

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Batteries suffer from lots of things. Age, heat, deep-discharge cycling, short trips with everything running, extended sitting with engine idling (eg: Los Angeles traffic) and more.

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At 5+ years old, my original battery (fall 2012 build for 2013 MY) was failing the specific-gravity test (look for the green ball in the window, or use a simple hydrometer). The car still started and ran fine. So I replaced the battery just 'cuz I don't like getting stranded by stupid stuff, and for grins left the old one on the workbench, and tested voltage once in a while. Six months later I finally gave up and dropped the battery core off. I probably could have stretched another year out of it, but not worth the gamble.

The battery in mine had one of those "magic eye" indicators, green ball visible through the little window when it's charged and there's good capacity. Others have suggested that not all of the Honda-branded batteries had that. I use a hydrometer as part of an annual system checkout that includes cleaning and sealing the terminals and connections, stuff like that. WalMart sells a small one with colored floating balls in it for under $3, with an Everstart label on it. Find it near or on the battery display. Looks like an eye dropper with the little balls in it. Suck some of the fluid out of each cell and see how many of the little balls float and how many sink. I have a slightly more sophisticated version that actually has a specific gravity scale on the float. Waste not your money on that, since the readings tell you exactly the same thing the $3 one does, plus the $3 one takes less electrolyte to sample. Do every cell individually, and use the poorest reading as your guide.

Testing this way and replacing when the hydrometer tells me has saved me from getting stranded more than a few times over the years. I get to shop for the best battery and deal on my own schedule, do the swap in the comfort and safety of my own garage workshop, rather than being at the mercy of the tow-truck driver or whatever.
 
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