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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up my car from the mechanic.
I've had problems with the battery all week. On Sunday the car wouldn't start. The battery is 5yrs old so that definitely made sense. I was overdue a new battery. I jump started the car on Sunday with a handy dandy portable jump starter to get out of the problem and get home. The next day, the car didn't start at all. Road side assistance had trouble starting it but after connecting it directly to another car with jumper cables and revving the engine for 10 minutes it worked. The car was started. They tested the battery, alternator and starter and confirmed everything was good except the battery, it wasn't holding a charge. I got a new battery. Everything worked fine for 2 days.

Thursday morning, the car didn't start again. Roadside assistance came by and helped jumped start the car again, tested the battery and it tested fine. The battery is holding a charge. I took the car to the mechanic who tested the electrical system and found the radio is draining the battery. Somehow something is wrong with the radio and it's draining the battery over night. By pulling the fuse for the radio out, the battery had no trouble overnight. Immediate problem solved.

A refurbished radio costs $2,200. A new radio costs $6,800. I couldn't believe it!!! There are no suggested radios from Crutchfield which is kind of shocking.

My next option is to take it to the dealer for their opinion. Let's see how this goes.
Anyone else had radio or battery issues like this?
Anyone find a good after market radio replacement for this model?

Honda Pilot 2015, Touring, white, 61k miles, problem free until this week! :-(

Ron from Jersey

766 Posts
The Audio-Nav unit is heavily integrated into other stuff, so no aftermarket options.
Do you know precisely which fuse got pulled (the box and fuse number)?

In Touring, you got:
Under hood, right side, fuse 17 (20A) for main unit, and fuse 23 (10A) for accessories: HFL module, front ANC mic, ANC unit, RES rear control, nav display)
Under dash: fuse 31 (30A) for the amplifier.

I suppose the fuse is #17 under hood.
You can find those units pulled from wrecked cars on ebay, like this one.
However, as it is not your car's original unit, it will require code.
Although, another option, if the problem is a faulty power supply board, it could be swapped in from another unit.
Also possible: pulling your audio unit, opening it up and inspecting the circuitry for any visual cues: anything looking burned/scorched, bulged or leaking capacitors.
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