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Hey everyone. This place is my last hope honestly. I have a 2014 Touring with 190,000 miles. After getting out of the Army I would use it to DoorDash until I found a job, so put a lot of miles on it. Did the normal maintenance on it. A couple of weeks back I was driving home from shopping and it just died on me. Engine turned off, lost brakes, lost power steering, basically lost everything. Luckily I was able to coast into a parking lot, it felt like I had manual steering. Before that happened, the only code I was getting was a P3400, dealing with the oil pressure sensor. Changed it out, and it went away. Few days later it came back, but would go away and come back. Seemed to do it every time I would fill up the tank. Skip ahead to a few weeks back. Called roadside assistance and got it towed back to my house. I call a mechanic friend and he comes over and tells me it sounds like the alternator. When I tried to crank it, it would just make a whining sound. Ordered a new alternator and got it switched out. That's when the current issue happened. It will crank, but not turn over. Thought it might be an issue with the spark plugs so I went ahead and changed the spark plugs and air filter just to be safe. Nothing helped. A friend of mine who had a diagnostic computer came over last night and that P3400 code is still in the system and is the only code that is in the computer. I have tested the battery, every single fuse and relay I could find and nothing is messed up. Checked the fuel pump and it is still working. The only major work on it recently was I had a new timing belt kit installed by a mechanic back in April. I am still getting power to the car. The only difference right now is when I lock it, it would beep when I hit the lock button twice and it doesn't do that now. My key is also a little messed up and I have it taped right now holding it together. I don't know if that could cause anything. Could the oil pressure sensor not allow the vehicle to start? Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated as we are a one car family. Luckily, my work is within walking distance from my house. Thanks everyone!
 

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First thing I would do is check your timing belt.

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Not a lot to go on Joshua. The P3400 code--a failure of Bank 1 cylinder management system-- should have created freeze frame data, which would be useful to retrieve. It might be the cause of crank no-start, but don't know at the moment the code setting criteria or fault strategy. As someone else alluded, the recent timing belt work might be an area of focus, as abelt failure would certainly cause crank no-start. To trained ears, you can ascertain basic compression health from the sound of cranking. Can you post a recording with your phone above the engine with the hood open, for say 3-4 sec of continuous cranking so we can listen?

Otherwise, you'll need to get the Pilot to a competent mechanic.
 

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Try the other key(s). The car has a security "Immobilizer" feature that disables engine run unless it can see the little RFID chip on the key. With the damage and the taping-up, it's possible the chip is now missing or moved so it can't be read. Either of the other keys (second master or the valet key) that came with the car will still have that, so this is a quick test to eliminate an easy failure option.
 
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Isn't there a green "key" light near the speedo that flashes if the key isn't recognized? If the security chip fell out of the key while driving, would that kill the engine (others reading might have experience with this)?
 

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Also (maybe a faulty memory from other posts), but I thought a dodgy or missing security chip allows the engine to start but kills it like 5 seconds later?🤷‍♂️
 

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I'm not sure the exact protection, whether no-start or shutoff. Easy/fast to just test with another key.

Isn't there a green "key" light near the speedo that flashes if the key isn't recognized? If the security chip fell out of the key while driving, would that kill the engine (others reading might have experience with this)?
Also (maybe a faulty memory from other posts), but I thought a dodgy or missing security chip allows the engine to start but kills it like 5 seconds later?🤷‍♂️
 

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Ya. It be nice to know if the OP found a fix. Sometimes the wrong oil pressure sensor switch is replaced. It is the back head on the drivers side. Surely the oil and filter are in good condition and filled to the proper level. I can't think of any reason for the timing belt job to have anything to do with this problem.
 

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Yeah...

Maybe he found that his 'other' key gets the job done and drove away without sharing his Good News. Or,... he's still stuck in a snow drift somewhere, trying to get the car started to go to grandma's for turkey dinner. We may never know.
 
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