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2014 Pilot rear hatch glass replacement

471 Views 4 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Neily4937
Hi All,

I'm trying to replace the rear hatch glass on my Pilot because it is scratched, rusty and the interior of the glass has a rust stain. I sourced a nice rear hatch glass with hinges and shocks from a junkyard at a cheap price. Problem is, I can't get the torx head bolts that hold the hinges on the glass to move at all and now I've stripped the head of one of them. I've tried penetrant and heat. I don't want to get too rough for fear of breaking the glass.

My other option is to leave the hinges on the glass and swap out the glass AND hinges. Unfortunately, access to the hinge bolts requires removal of some exterior body panels around the hinge on the top of the tailgate piece. I'm willing to try this, but I can't see how to remove those external panels. The photo attached show the glass I got from the junkyard and my abortive attempt to remove the hinge from the glass due to the stripped torx head bolt. The other photo shows my hatch glass still on the car and the location of the exterior panels that would have to be removed to access the hinge bolts.

I imagine auto glass shops do this all the time, but I can't figure it. Has anyone else here replaced their rear hatch glass? Did you remove the hinge from the glass or did you install the hinges with it? If so, how do you remove the exterior panels to access the hinge bolts?

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You got one option go to Honda and ask them?
Hi All,

I'm trying to replace the rear hatch glass on my Pilot because it is scratched, rusty and the interior of the glass has a rust stain. I sourced a nice rear hatch glass with hinges and shocks from a junkyard at a cheap price. Problem is, I can't get the torx head bolts that hold the hinges on the glass to move at all and now I've stripped the head of one of them. I've tried penetrant and heat. I don't want to get too rough for fear of breaking the glass.

My other option is to leave the hinges on the glass and swap out the glass AND hinges. Unfortunately, access to the hinge bolts requires removal of some exterior body panels around the hinge on the top of the tailgate piece. I'm willing to try this, but I can't see how to remove those external panels. The photo attached show the glass I got from the junkyard and my abortive attempt to remove the hinge from the glass due to the stripped torx head bolt. The other photo shows my hatch glass still on the car and the location of the exterior panels that would have to be removed to access the hinge bolts.

I imagine auto glass shops do this all the time, but I can't figure it. Has anyone else here replaced their rear hatch glass? Did you remove the hinge from the glass or did you install the hinges with it? If so, how do you remove the exterior panels to access the hinge bolts?

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You can drill the head off using a bit that’s a touch bigger than the shank. The head will come off. Then take out the rest of the bolt with a wrench. Use WD-40 after drilling the head.
For project that aren't immediately obvious I have gotten into the habit of looking at the workshop manual. For the hatch glass replacement, the instructions are pretty interesting. The only glass disassembly they show is removal of the two bolts that pass through the latch into the outside handle. The bolts for the hinges stay with hinges on the glass. You get to remove the "tailgate trim panel" which is the upper plastic panel inside the hatch, then the "tailgate trim spoiler" which is the painted plastic cover above the installed glass. That exposes the bolts that hold the hinges to the body. Honda has instructions for aligning the glass so it's centered and flush in the opening. It needs to sit evenly on the rubber seal so you don't have leaks. Then the latch gets adjusted so the loop is centered in the opening in the interior trim panel.

Removing the tailgate spoiler trim that covers the hinges also includes the washer plumbing and the electrical connection to the high-mount stop lamp assembly. Four bolts and two nuts hold that trim into place. Bolts get 6.9 lbs/ft, nuts get 2.9 lbs/ft., which correspond to "just snug and no more" if you don't have the appropriate torque-limiting tool. The washer hose disconnects by turning the collar on the nozzle 90º clockwise (looking from hose to nozzle) to release the fitting on the end of the hose from the nozzle.

The interior trim panel is held on with plastic clips. Use plastic interior trim tools to release the clips, and avoid damage to the panel and the paint on the hatch. I'm maybe 50/50 in getting whole trim panels out without boogering a clip even with the right tools. Decent local parts stores sell generic trim clips that will fit if you need them.
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You can either replace it yourself, or you can also take it to your nearest dealership and auto repair shop.
eggy car
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