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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I am hoping that someone here can magically solve the issue the dealership has been unable to solve over and over...

Specs:
2014 Honda Pilot EX-L 2WD
Mileage at 137K
No wrecks or major damage of any kind
Oil is good and recently changed (80% life)

I've seen some similar threads but nothing with this exact problem or that contained a resolution.

A few weeks ago (mid Nov) I was attempting to cross traffic turning left going up a hill and I noticed my pilot begin to "stall" (it began jerking and it felt as if I couldn't accelerate), the Check Engine Light and VSA light turn on. I took it into the dealership and they assured me it was a software problem. They updated the software and gave it back to me. Fast forward a couple of weeks, I am on the way to take my kids to school and attempting to accelerate at a red light, pilot begins to jerk on acceleration and the Check Engine and VSA lights kick on. I take it to the dealership, they saw "it is throwing the code for the Yaw Rate Sensor; we are sure replacing it will fix it", $1000 dollars later I am hopeful. Fast forward a few more weeks to today, I am on the way to school again attempting to accelerate from a red light, and BAM exact scenario. I take it the dealership and I am told "we just don't know". They are at a loss of what to do unless they can "actively trigger it while driving" (despite the light being on). I am getting really frustrated that my option seems to be "wait until this causes an accident".

Possible Correlating Factors:
Winter, could be coincidental but appears to happen on colder mornings
My battery is basically new, but seems to have a hard time turning over in the AM lately. And has read low. But I haven't been driving too often because school's been out and I work from home
Seems to happen upon acceleration at red lights or stop signs

If anyone has any thoughts I would be eternally grateful!
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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2,177 Posts
I'm sorry you are having these troubles. I'll let someone else take a stab at the fix, I don't have it for as of now.
 

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Basic things to eliminate them: Clean the MAF sensor. Verify there are no cracks or air leaks in the accordion tube that the MAF sites in between the air filter housing and the throttle body. These are normal PM tasks only loosely related to your symptoms.

Take the technician on a ride or have him/her drive the car with their datalogger attached. That way they can cause the problem while they are watching.

There are some interesting threads in sticking/blocked EGR valves. Sticking will set a code, and affect hard-throttle performance.

In general, anything that lights up the cluster warnings will be setting codes in the PCM. The VSA system is interesting but generally doesn't set a MIL (check engine light) on its own. There are PCM codes that will flash VSA in concert with MIL, but there are others that are lit at the same time. AWD versions like to flash the VCM indicator at the same time, but that doesn't apply to your FWD Touring. Regardless, the codes are stored in PCM and readable there.

Turn VSA off (switch by your left knee...) in some safe place and try and duplicate the conditions you experienced. VSA uses a combination of wheel speed sensors, steering position and that yaw sensor to selectively apply the brakes and ultimately limit the throttle opening, so it's understandable why the dealer looked at the yaw sensor. But the sensor very seldom fails, and will set a persistent failure code when it faults. Usually a recalibration of that sensor is enough to clear the symptom. A faulty reading from a wheel speed sensor during VSA will set an ABS code too. The wheel speed sensors are sensitive to crud in the hub, and since the sensors are magnetic they also like to pick up metallic debris like brake dust from ferrous brake pad dust. They will flash a momentary VAS and ABS fault and a stored code if the sensor contacts the little 'gear' it reads too. Combination of crud at the sensor and/or very worn wheel bearings would cause that symptom.
 

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That is is a primary symptom of the EGR valve. I would start there since you are due anyway at that mileage. PCV is in that location as well and also due. Both parts would be less than $100 and are DIY. Dealer install would be around $150 for both.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you so much for all the responses! I am so appreciative.

The dealership called me today and told me that they think it could "possibly" be the Crank Position Sensor, but they don't know and it they could fix it but it might still have the problem. So basically they told me my only option is to keep replacing parts blindly or "deal with it". I am going to attempt the things you all suggested.

Thank You
 

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It's not the CPS especially if the only time you experience the problem is under hard acceleration while turning. CPS knows nothing about the direction change or the throttle position or total load. It just reads crank position and calculated speed. Drive in a straight line with the gear selector in low, and gently bring engine speed to whatever speed you saw during your original events. If it does that OK with no bobbles in the tach reading on the way, the CPS drops way down the possible-causes list.
 
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