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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 Pilot EX-L with Nav and 7-speaker system.

After many years of dealing with sub-par sound (albeit a small step up in quality from non-nav via the included Alpine unit) I decided to undertake a DIY speaker upgrade.

The first step was to replace the dash tweeters and door woofers. I did so with two sets of Kenwood KFC-P71. This is a component set that includes two woofers and two tweeters. The 2nd set of tweeters are not used. I first tried connecting the tweeters directly to the factory wires for the the factory tweeters, and the sound was terrible (the factory tweeters include a built-in crossover capacitor which isn't present on the new tweeters). So I instead used the crossover wires included with the new speakers and ran the new tweeters off the new front door woofers, per their instructions. Much better.

The initial result with just replacing those 6 speakers was certainly a significantly-improved overall sound, but, there was still much more to be desired.

So next, I installed a low-profile powered subwoofer under the driver seat - this is where we went from awesome to awesome-er in terms of overall sound. This made everything sound so much fuller, as one would expect. For the install, I tapped into the subwoofer signal wire (so I could still control the separate subwoofer level from the head-unit), and then ran that through a LOC, then from the LOC to the powered sub. It sounds really good.

But, I now want to do one final step, to really give the Kenwoods the power they deserve. I want to add an aftermarket amp to run the Kenwoods. But in my case, my car has a factory amp. This is the one blocker for me for being able to take my system to the next level. Replacing the factory head unit is not an option for me, so I have to figure out how to work around the factory amp, while still being able to make use of its wiring.

I have read a lot on the AudioControl DSP units (some are just DSP units, others are DSP/amp combos), and their user guides say they can definitely be installed after a factory amp.

So I suppose the guidance I'm looking for would be the best way to accomplish installing one of these after the factory amp? First challenge is I can not for the life of me find a pinout or wire diagram for the factory amp anywhere online. Second challenge is access to the wires connected to the amp (it's at the footwell on the passenger side) is super, super tight. The wires are packed against the amp very tightly, seemingly making the ability to tap into them next to impossible. And then finally, if I were to be successful in tapping the wires to run to an aftermarket amp, what is the best approach for running out of the aftermarket amp? Do I need to run new wires out of the new amp to all the speakers? It seems tapping into the out cluster of the factory amp wouldn't work.

Any thoughts/advice on any of this would be greatly appreciated. I'm also very happy to share any knowledge I can about my install thus far to anyone it may benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update: I was able to find the wiring diagram for the amp. Now just need to understand steps to accomplish what I'm trying to do.
 

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I think you actually have an 8-speaker system - with center speaker for nav voice. If that is indeed the case and you DO have center speaker, that complicates things a little.

I would say your best bet is to to get rid of the factory amp completely. Your head should have preamp outputs for all the speakers and the sub. Big question: do you want to be able to revert the change and put factory amp back in (say, before trading the car in) or you will just trade it in with aftermarket audio?

Reversible option: Find an OEM factory amp somewhere, not necessarily a working one - i.e. from a junk yard. Gut it and cut out the PCB section that has the connectors. Solder needed wires to that. Do NOT try to desolder connectors from PCB.
Irreversible option: Hack off the factory amp connectors and extend the wires for the new amp.

Assuming you will get a 4-channel amp:

Amp connector A (24P) is responsible for power and speaker outputs.
pins 6/7 - rear right, 18/19 - front left, 20/21 - front right, 22/23 - rear left. These pins go to speaker output terminals on the amp.
Pins 1 and 13 are grounds. Combine and wire both to amp power ground.
Now, the power. pins 12 and 24 are power (purple) and actually coming off the same 30A fuse. If your new amp is ok with 30A, you can just combine those two into your amp power terminal. If not, you need a new power line from battery.
16/17 are center speaker outputs - more on that later.

Amp connector B (28P) is controls and speaker inputs from head.
pin 2 is +12V switching - goes to amp 'remote' input.
4/18 - subwoofer preamps - those should go direct to your powered sub line inputs, no LOC needed.
5/19 - front left, 6/20 front right, 7/21 rear left, 8/22 rear right - these go to appropriate line level inputs (will likely need RCA plugs on those)

3/17 is center speaker input.
10/23 is 'voice guidance and voice recognition prompts' input.
 

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So about that pesky center speaker. And you also do not want to lose that voice guidance part either.
Option one: a passive mini mixer

Inputs:
channel 1: front right and left speaker inputs
channel 2: center speaker input, split to both sides (Amazon.com: FosPower Y Adapter (8 inch) 2 RCA (Male) to 1 RCA (Female) Stereo Audio Y Adapter Subwoofer Cable (24k Gold Plated) 2 Male to 1 Female Y Splitter Connectors Extension Cord: Home Audio & Theater)
channel 3 voice guidance, also split both right and left.
channel 4 - nothing, set level to 0
Output then goes to amplifier fronts. You can set all input 1-3 levels to max and then adjust it from head unit as needed. You will retain all your audio channels, but you 'center' sound will be handled by fronts now.

Option two: dedicated mono amp for center speaker.
Something like

You will still need a mini-mixer to combine voice guidance channel with either center channel or split out to fronts.
i.e. Stereo Audio Signal Mixer Board Mix 2way 4way Input 1way Output DC5V-12V | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Scorrpio,

Wow, awesome responses, thanks so much for taking the time!

Regarding the Nav audio - if there is a center speaker for the nav prompts, it's definitely hidden. There is definitely no center speaker grille on the dash. Is it possible the center speaker is hidden?

Regarding the question on being able to revert to factory components - I definitely do want the option to be able to do so. I don't know how many years I'll have this car, but if it's not many more, I'm going to want to take the aftermarket stuff out of it assuming it still has some value. Good suggestion on trying to find another OEM amp. I'll start that research now.

Thanks for the detailed wiring info. I really think there is no center speaker involved here, but I'm going to go out the car in a couple hours and test that theory out with the Nav system.
 

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It could be center speaker is only present in models with RES. If so, and there is no center, this definitely makes things much easier. You might still need a mini-mixer to distribute voice guidance prompts channel to the fronts.


Text Diagram Auto part Technical drawing Drawing
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so I did some testing and the Nav prompts are definitely coming out of all the speakers. So that's good news and seems it will make things easier. And since I have the ability to separately adjust the volume of nav prompts from the head unit, I don't think I'll need a separate mixer.

So then next item - to make things clean and reversible (and assuming I can't find another amp at a junkyard) I'd really like to just make my own wiring harnesses for the 24-pin and 28-pin connectors of the amp. Any idea where I might be able to get my hands on those exact plastic connectors?
 

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According to the wiring pinouts, it would appear that the voice prompts are sent by the head unit separately and are 'mixed' into the main audio by the factory amp. You can TRY doing the wiring just for speakers, leaving pins 10 and 23 on connector B unused, but it you get no nav voice after that, you will need to get a mixer.

Any idea where I might be able to get my hands on those exact plastic connectors?
This is what I was talking about in the first post. If you can find a cheap factory amp from junkyard, you can cut out the PCB section that houses those connectors - and solder wires there. Wrap it up with some tape, that will be your interface module.

Now I am about 100% sure that amp connector A is exactly the same as 24P connector A on the head unit, and therefore standard aftermarket Honda wiring harness should fit.
But you will need to move some of the small pins. Namely, pins 10 and 11 need to be moved to positions 20 and 21.

The male 28P connector B, however, is way harder to locate. This is the form factor you need, but I doubt you need 500 of them.I have not seen this connector anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Scorrpio - thanks for the continued helpful responses. I definitely won't be needing 500 of those haha. Thanks for clarifying what you meant on the amp. I definitely misconstrued the first time around.

So I found this: AXDSP-X | Axxess Integrate
and: AX-DSP-HON1 | Axxess Integrate

I did a lot of research on these yesterday and wasn't going to post it here without doing so. And I went ahead bought it to see if it will work for me. I have 30 days to return it if not. It will be here beginning of next week.

In the manual, it says you can either put it right after the head unit, or you can bypass the factory amp and put it there. I won't know much else until I take delivery, but I will document the install, and if it's all successful I will post it here. Take a look at this product and see what you think.

Chat soon.
 

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That's a rather expensive option, I would say. You sure you don't want to put in an aftermarket head instead? It IS possible, you know.
DMG:

My own:

Yet another, same idea:

Only option I see that kinda-sorta resembles a solution is:
T-harness plugs detween vehicle and factory amp connector A (Power/outputs)
The RCAs from DSP to fronts/rears go to aftermarket amp.
RCA(s) from DSP for sub go to powered sub.
On vehicle side connector of the T-harness, you cut the wires supposed to go to front/rear speakers and wire them to aftermarket amp outputs instead.
Of course, the problem is now all your sound is amplified first by factory amp, then downconverted to line, then amped again. Yuck.
That $500 DSP+harness becomes nothing more than a glorified connector adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry, I definitely did not spend that amount. That's MSRP. I got both the harness and the unit for $279 on Ebay. I'm starting the install and testing today so we'll see how it goes.

Both of the installs you've linked are very impressive. To be honest, something of this level isn't really an option for me. The wife and I agree that the factory headunit/screen/controls/pockets/etc need to remain untouched.
 

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I think you actually have an 8-speaker system - with center speaker for nav voice. If that is indeed the case and you DO have center speaker, that complicates things a little.

I would say your best bet is to to get rid of the factory amp completely. Your head should have preamp outputs for all the speakers and the sub. Big question: do you want to be able to revert the change and put factory amp back in (say, before trading the car in) or you will just trade it in with aftermarket audio?

Reversible option: Find an OEM factory amp somewhere, not necessarily a working one - i.e. from a junk yard. Gut it and cut out the PCB section that has the connectors. Solder needed wires to that. Do NOT try to desolder connectors from PCB.
Irreversible option: Hack off the factory amp connectors and extend the wires for the new amp.

Assuming you will get a 4-channel amp:

Amp connector A (24P) is responsible for power and speaker outputs.
pins 6/7 - rear right, 18/19 - front left, 20/21 - front right, 22/23 - rear left. These pins go to speaker output terminals on the amp.
Pins 1 and 13 are grounds. Combine and wire both to amp power ground.
Now, the power. pins 12 and 24 are power (purple) and actually coming off the same 30A fuse. If your new amp is ok with 30A, you can just combine those two into your amp power terminal. If not, you need a new power line from battery.
16/17 are center speaker outputs - more on that later.

Amp connector B (28P) is controls and speaker inputs from head.
pin 2 is +12V switching - goes to amp 'remote' input.
4/18 - subwoofer preamps - those should go direct to your powered sub line inputs, no LOC needed.
5/19 - front left, 6/20 front right, 7/21 rear left, 8/22 rear right - these go to appropriate line level inputs (will likely need RCA plugs on those)

3/17 is center speaker input.
10/23 is 'voice guidance and voice recognition prompts' input.
Scorpio can you help me identify which plugs are which? I think I found my front left and right and rear left and right speakers... but where can I find the sub wire?
148189
148190
148191
148192
 

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Top photo: Those are your connectors A (large gray, 24 pins), C (white, 14 pins) and D (the smaller gray 20 pins)
Second photo: the two connectors in your palm are for climate control, nothing to do with audio. The 16-pin gray connector above them - which you are also holding in the last photo - is your 'E' connector. Speaking of which: the red and white wires a bit apart from others on the right side of this connector are your subwoofer output. Red is a subw- and white is subw+

And yes, the two circled white wires are ANC mic inputs.
 

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Top photo: Those are your connectors A (large gray, 24 pins), C (white, 14 pins) and D (the smaller gray 20 pins)
Second photo: the two connectors in your palm are for climate control, nothing to do with audio. The 16-pin gray connector above them - which you are also holding in the last photo - is your 'E' connector. Speaking of which: the red and white wires a bit apart from others on the right side of this connector are your subwoofer output. Red is a subw- and white is subw+

And yes, the two circled white wires are ANC mic inputs.
You are THE MAN! I’m going to dedicate my audio build to you Sir! Lol
 

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I think I found my front left and right and rear left and right speakers...
In case you think wrong... Numbering of cavities is left to right, looking at connector from wire side, retainer clip facing up. Top row is 1-12, bottom is 13-24.

AUDIO UNIT CONNECTOR A (24P)
Cavity​
Wire Color​
Terminal Name​
Description​
A3​
LT BLU​
K-LINE​
Detects scan tool signal (serial data)​
A4​
LT GRN(1)
SCTY​
Security signal from rear controller and screen(1)
RED(2)
Security signal from MICU(2)
A5BRNREMOTE GNDAudio remote switch ground
A6BLURR SP-Outputs sound signal for Right rear door speaker
A7REDRR SP+Outputs sound signal for Right rear door speaker
A10BLURL SP-Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker
A11REDRL SP+Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker
A12BLKGNDGround for audio unit (G502)
A14PURACCPower source for accessories
A16PNKREMOTEDetects control signal from audio remote switch
A18BRNFR SP-Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)
A19REDFR SP+Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)
A22REDFL SP-Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)
A23BLUFL SP+Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)
A24WHT+BContinuous power source
(1)With rear entertainment
(2)Without rear entertainment
 
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