Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 pilot ex- my control panel just went off one day and next day it was off but after a few minutes of driving it, it came back on. It now seems to doing it all the time, as soon as I get in my vehicle at any time during the day, it won't be on but I'll be driving and within 3-5 minutes and it's on and everything is working fine. It doesn't make any sense. If my car is warm due to even the weather outside, it'll work right away but in the morning when it's only 50-60 out -it takes a few minutes but then it comes right on. all blowers are working, no weird smells or noises. It just works as normal. the only other things I've seen that doesn't work either until it comes on is my outside temperature, my front heated seats and of course my rear heat/vents but again as soon as that starts working they come right on too. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be going on??? Help! It's going to get cold in NY so I need this figured out quick! (they only thing I've done recently with the car besides the normal-brakes and oil changes is my air filter -I just changed that in August).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
764 Posts
By 'control panel', what do you mean? The gauges (speedometer/rpm/etc) or the climate controls? Also, heated seats on the EX? I got a 2013 EX and don't recall heated seats being an option.
Regardless - I would check the connectors to the problem module - see if one of the pins worked loose. Also, check if your battery is starting to go bad.
Another possibility is a cracked solder joint somewhere - but checking for that would require pulling the control unit, opening it up and examining the PCB with a magnifier. A hairline fracture at one of connector pins might be wide enough to break contact when cold, but close up due to thermal expansion as car heats up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
By 'control panel', what do you mean? The gauges (speedometer/rpm/etc) or the climate controls? Also, heated seats on the EX? I got a 2013 EX and don't recall heated seats being an option.
Regardless - I would check the connectors to the problem module - see if one of the pins worked loose. Also, check if your battery is starting to go bad.
Another possibility is a cracked solder joint somewhere - but checking for that would require pulling the control unit, opening it up and examining the PCB with a magnifier. A hairline fracture at one of connector pins might be wide enough to break contact when cold, but close up due to thermal expansion as car heats up.
Yes the climate control panel. And yeah I do have heated seats. I think it’s the EX-L honestly. Sorry. My battery is fairly new. I got it just about 6-8 months ago. When you say Pins? Where or how would I find them? Would I still have to remove the entire panel? I do have an appt next Tuesday for the Honda dealer but I’d love to save me money if I could.
Thanks so much!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
764 Posts
I am getting the impression that digging into your dashboard innards is not entirely within your comfort level. But the dealer will most likely tell you than climate control unit needs to be replaced,
And considering the price, you are looking at about $800-900 if not more...
Maybe you know someone handy... In any case, I will outline the process.
1. Make sure parking brake is engaged and for good measure, put something under the wheels to prevent car from rolling.
2. Under the gear shift lever, there is a tiny plastic plug. Pry it out.
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, stick a flat-head screwdriver into the hole, depressing the release lever, so you can lower gear shift lever to horizontal position.
4. Carefully release the brake pedal, make sure car is NOT rolling.
5. Now, pry off the trim panels on both sides of the audio unit. Prefferably using something plastic, not metal. You will need to disconnect a couple connectors from buttons on the left piece, and the accessory outlet connector on the right piece.
6. Now you can remove the 4 screws from the brackets holding the audio/climate unit assembly. I strongly recommend using a magnetic screwdriver. You don't want dropping those screws.
7. Pull out the audio/climate assembly, unplug all the connectors from its back. Disassembly complete, not comes the hard part.

8. Examine connectors that go into climate unit. Are all the wires secure in their place, or some are loose/sticking out?
9. Remove the side brackets from the audio unit so you can separate the climate unit.
10. Open up the climate unit, get out its main PCB, carefully examine the area where connector receptacles are soldered in. Just google ' failed solder joint' to have some idea what to look for.
11. While it is open inspect all the electrolytic capacitors on the PCB - if any are leaking or bulging. (Google 'failed electrolytic capacitor')
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,515 Posts
So...

That climate control unit control panel unit serves as a communication port for the seat heaters, carrying the signal from the switch to the seat heater control unit that live under the driver's seat via the B-CAN Canbus system. If the climate control unit is offline, it won't pass the seat heater instructions to the seat heater control unit. Incidentally, that loss of Canbus communications sets DTC U1064, if you have a better code reader.

REPLACE fuse 36 (10A) in the underdash fuse/relay box. It supplies power to the climate control unit including the display and the rear climate control panel. Particularly if the rear console climate control panel stays off while the front is off, there's a very good chance that the fuse is erratic or not seating well. Because the issue is erratic, the common power feed through that fuse 36 is a likely suspect. And a good reason to REPLACE the fuse rather than trying to test it first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am getting the impression that digging into your dashboard innards is not entirely within your comfort level. But the dealer will most likely tell you than climate control unit needs to be replaced,
And considering the price, you are looking at about $800-900 if not more...
Maybe you know someone handy... In any case, I will outline the process.
1. Make sure parking brake is engaged and for good measure, put something under the wheels to prevent car from rolling.
2. Under the gear shift lever, there is a tiny plastic plug. Pry it out.
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, stick a flat-head screwdriver into the hole, depressing the release lever, so you can lower gear shift lever to horizontal position.
4. Carefully release the brake pedal, make sure car is NOT rolling.
5. Now, pry off the trim panels on both sides of the audio unit. Prefferably using something plastic, not metal. You will need to disconnect a couple connectors from buttons on the left piece, and the accessory outlet connector on the right piece.
6. Now you can remove the 4 screws from the brackets holding the audio/climate unit assembly. I strongly recommend using a magnetic screwdriver. You don't want dropping those screws.
7. Pull out the audio/climate assembly, unplug all the connectors from its back. Disassembly complete, not comes the hard part.

8. Examine connectors that go into climate unit. Are all the wires secure in their place, or some are loose/sticking out?
9. Remove the side brackets from the audio unit so you can separate the climate unit.
10. Open up the climate unit, get out its main PCB, carefully examine the area where connector receptacles are soldered in. Just google ' failed solder joint' to have some idea what to look for.
11. While it is open inspect all the electrolytic capacitors on the PCB - if any are leaking or bulging. (Google 'failed electrolytic capacitor')
Thank you! Yes that’s a lot of work for me and my husband. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So...

That climate control unit control panel unit serves as a communication port for the seat heaters, carrying the signal from the switch to the seat heater control unit that live under the driver's seat via the B-CAN Canbus system. If the climate control unit is offline, it won't pass the seat heater instructions to the seat heater control unit. Incidentally, that loss of Canbus communications sets DTC U1064, if you have a better code reader.

REPLACE fuse 36 (10A) in the underdash fuse/relay box. It supplies power to the climate control unit including the display and the rear climate control panel. Particularly if the rear console climate control panel stays off while the front is off, there's a very good chance that the fuse is erratic or not seating well. Because the issue is erratic, the common power feed through that fuse 36 is a likely suspect. And a good reason to REPLACE the fuse rather than trying to test it first.
Thanks so much!!! It’s definitely worth a try for sure!!! We’ll get one this weekend and replace it to see if it works.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top