Fuse 7 (15A) in the aux under-hood box (the rectangular box next to the battery) is the first fuse to inspect. Next might be the switch itself, where power from that same fuse shows up on the yellow wire (via MICU R1). Pressing the button should pass that voltage to the green wire and back to the MICU (via Q11) for the actual flashing function.
The switch is accessible after popping the left center trim panel. Use tape to protect the plastic and plastic trim tools to remove it without damage. The connector on that switch is what actually holds the switch in place in the trim panel, plus 2 screws from the top into the switch itself. You can test continuity through the switch itself (terms 1 and 2) with a DMM to confirm function there.
Fuse 23 (10A) in the main under-hood fuse and relay panel .or. fuse 10 (7.5A) (with key in RUN or START) also power some of the related MICU function, so might be worth a look too before you start pulling trim pieces from the dash. Those also affect other MICU functions, so if everything is working except hazard flashers these are less suspect.
The switch is accessible after popping the left center trim panel. Use tape to protect the plastic and plastic trim tools to remove it without damage. The connector on that switch is what actually holds the switch in place in the trim panel, plus 2 screws from the top into the switch itself. You can test continuity through the switch itself (terms 1 and 2) with a DMM to confirm function there.
Fuse 23 (10A) in the main under-hood fuse and relay panel .or. fuse 10 (7.5A) (with key in RUN or START) also power some of the related MICU function, so might be worth a look too before you start pulling trim pieces from the dash. Those also affect other MICU functions, so if everything is working except hazard flashers these are less suspect.
