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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
2013 touring here. The heater takes about 15 minutes before blowing warm air....75 degrees feels the same as HI...blower works fine...engine temp warms up to operating temp without issue....is this normal??? Do these cars take forever to warm up?

also seat warmers take forever to get hot on high and on low it’s practically non-existent...

Thoughts?
 

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Are you using "Auto" mode?.....if so, try "Manual" mode to see if that helps any. In "Auto" mode, heater and A/C fight each other.
 
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Auto climate control works just as fast getting air up to set temp as putting the temp setting on high. Heater valve is full-open either way.

Verify that the thermostat is operating. Replacement is faster/easier than any testing.

The cooling system must not have any air in it. There's a pretty comprehensive burping protocol to use when replacing coolant, all to make sure the heater cores don't end up air-locked.

Check the coolant level in the radiator as well as in the expansion reservoir. Cold engine of course, and the radiator should be full-full with no air space at all. Low coolant level is a favorite cause of low heat from the heater.

Been doing the regular services on the cooling system? At 8+ years old now, mine just got its second full coolant flush-and-fill last fall on it's 8th birthday.

Mine takes an extra long while to get the seats warm if the cabin heater isn't playing along, doing its share.

There have been a few posts in the last couple years that included some interesting methods to solve unbalanced coolant flows and heating. If the above suggestions don't get your feet warmer faster, we can do more digging. Star the easy stuff, of course.
 

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A $25 point-n-shoot infrared temp gun can be as handy as a pocket on a shirt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Auto climate control works just as fast getting air up to set temp as putting the temp setting on high. Heater valve is full-open either way.

Verify that the thermostat is operating. Replacement is faster/easier than any testing.

The cooling system must not have any air in it. There's a pretty comprehensive burping protocol to use when replacing coolant, all to make sure the heater cores don't end up air-locked.

Check the coolant level in the radiator as well as in the expansion reservoir. Cold engine of course, and the radiator should be full-full with no air space at all. Low coolant level is a favorite cause of low heat from the heater.

Been doing the regular services on the cooling system? At 8+ years old now, mine just got its second full coolant flush-and-fill last fall on it's 8th birthday.

Mine takes an extra long while to get the seats warm if the cabin heater isn't playing along, doing its share.

There have been a few posts in the last couple years that included some interesting methods to solve unbalanced coolant flows and heating. If the above suggestions don't get your feet warmer faster, we can do more digging. Star the easy stuff, of course.
I think I’ll replace the valve sight unseen with a new OEM and see if any change. I’ll also check coolant level.
 

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Check coolant level. If low get the correct type and refill.
 

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Check coolant level. If low get the correct type and refill.
Before replacing anything.
My 08 has the universal yellow stuff in it. Seems to work fine?
 

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Neither of my Honda's have yellow coolant. Honda coolant is blue. Its not the color but the coolant type that matters. There are so many different types of coolant out there that I just stick with what I know is the right stuff for each car in the family fleet. Mixing coolant type apparently can cause damage to engines and components.
 

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Does the Auto parts let you borrow something like that? I know they do for the pressure tester.
I don't know, but for 18 bucks, it's a tool worth owning. It has a stopper so if the radiator fills up before the funnel empties, you can take what's in the funnel and safely return it to the original container. Plus it prevents splashing coolant on the car and floor when you burb the system.
 

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I don't know, but for 18 bucks, it's a tool worth owning. It has a stopper so if the radiator fills up before the funnel empties, you can take what's in the funnel and safely return it to the original container. Plus it prevents splashing coolant on the car and floor when you burb the system.
No kidding - I've owned one of these (branded under Mac Tools as I recall) for the past 20 years. Super handy, clean and gets the job done properly and easily. Can't recommend them enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
checked my coolant, it was halfway between min and max.....how can i determine if it contains any air?
 

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checked my coolant, it was halfway between min and max.....how can i determine if it contains any air?
Once it's cool, take off the radiator cap and check the level in the radiator There should be no air, the fluid should be right at the top of the radiator neck. Start it up and watch the level as the thermostat opens. Keep an eye out for bubbles, fluctuating level. Give the upper radiator hose a squeeze or two and see if bubbles show up or the level drops. If you can, give the heater hoses a squeeze. Top off with 50/50 mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Once it's cool, take off the radiator cap and check the level in the radiator There should be no air, the fluid should be right at the top of the radiator neck. Start it up and watch the level as the thermostat opens. Keep an eye out for bubbles, fluctuating level. Give the upper radiator hose a squeeze or two and see if bubbles show up or the level drops. If you can, give the heater hoses a squeeze. Top off with 50/50 mix.
will try this out and report back.
 

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The funnel kit is interesting, but is not really needed in the Pilot. The radiator cap is top front center and easily accessible. The concern is making sure the coolant level is at full top with no air space. Most important, no air is stranded in the heater cores. Realistically, the front system will self-burp if the heater is on full-hot as you finish filling after coolant replacement. The rear can be a bit more of a challenge only because of the length of hose/tubing that runs under the car to the rear of the console where the rear heater core lives.

Lots of good guidance in this thread already.
 

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