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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I live in Canada and it appears that the corrosion got to my 2013 Honda Pilot backup camera. I have heard of others that have had the same problem. Looking at the camera the aluminum housing looks to be in pretty rough shape, perhaps the deterioration is accelerated by being next to the steel bracket. I'm posting this here as I was assisted by some of the information others had posted, but I didn't see someone reporting success.

I uninstalled the rear hatch trim plastics and then removed the two bolts that hold the upper (above the license plate) exterior trim work by removing the two nuts and then squeezing the heads of the white plastic fasteners to release the trim work from the rear hatch. There are two OEM electrical connectors that need to be unplugged, then the rubber grommet can be removed and the whole assembly comes out.

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The OEM camera can be seen below, I believe it is a Sony Model, VCB-H91/3.

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I purchased an inexpensive camera off Amazon Backup Camera, NOAUKA Waterproof IP68 Night Vision 170 Degree Car Rear View/Reversing/Reverse Camera Universal Color CMOS Imaging Chip Backup Parking HD Front View Camera: Amazon.ca: Electronics which is no longer available from the link I purchased, but I think there are lots others that are very similar.

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The OEM camera had 5 connections, two for power, two for video and one for the shield of the cable. The new camera didn't have a shielded cable, so I connected the following. Note the car wiring harness is 6 pin, but it had 12 wires on the back side, including enough stubby ends that I could connect to the spare wires. I simply cut off the old camera.

CameraCar Wiring Harness
Video Cable: Yellow (camera center pin of RCA composite video jack)Yellow
Video Cable: Black (camera outer connector of RCA composite video jack)White
Video Power: RedPink
Video Power: BlackBlue (which is connected to the black ground)

The OEM camera is square, so the bracket angles it down at ~ 45 degrees.

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The new camera is already at 45 degrees, so I used a piece of scrap angle metal I had in the garage to create a new bracket.

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After installing this is what it looks like:
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After putting the Pilot in reverse, I could see that I was getting backup lines from the camera and also from the pilot.

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The instructions from the camera indicated that I can cut a small loop of wire on the wiring harness in order to disable the camera's backup lines, at which point I was left with only the Honda lines.

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Success!
 

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2005 Honda Pilot, 194,000 miles
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Good ole galvanic corrosion that manufacturers don’t think about. When putting two different metals in contact with the other, the metal that is slower to rust actually accelerates the Oxidization of the faster rusting metal. When ford started their switch to aluminum bodies, they used aluminum bed bolts held in with steel J hooks. I would say 99% of the time the hooks were completely frozen and destroyed and left you unable to loosen the bolt. So you’re left with shaving the heads completely off of every bolt to get the bed off. It’s a hassle.

that’s awesome you got your issue fixed! Props 🤘🏻 And good write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My family think that the quality is better, I think it is about the same.

Regarding the different camera angle functions, either my (2013) vehicle doesn't have those or I've just never used them. Google turns up this
which is from a newer generation Pilot.
 

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Navigation 2012+ models do have that feature. (Page 119 in 2013 Navigation manual)

The manner of camera hookup is the same - just a regular composite video signal. But the camera itself on nav models is different - it is wider.
39530-SZA-A01 - regular camera found on non-nac models
39530-SZA-A21 - wide angle camera on nav models

The top and regular views are achieved by digitally altering the image received from camera.
I would imagine if the replacement camera is the same wide angle view as OEM, multi-view should work fine
 

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My camera has been replaced once already... Now the most bizarre issue...
I have a 2013 Pilot with the only adjustment being to brighten or darken the screen.
My issue right now is the camera image is backwards. Left is right and right is left
No forums regarding this... Nothing.
Took plastics off and Unplugged the camera a few different times and pressed a bunch of buttons on the dash along with shifting the car into different modes... Still not reverting back to normal.
I'm going to attempt to replace the camera myself
 

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My 2015 EX-L B/U Camera works only sometimes and usually when I'm OK just using the mirrors. But most of the time it doesn't work and the screen is black except for the yellow guide lines. Is that the issue some of you were having?

Is there a You Tube video for getting the tailgate inside trim off? (I didn't find one) It's not immediately obvious to me how the trim is removed.
 

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Jack, misery enjoys company. My 2015 Pilot EX-L B/U camera died last week and now in the process of trying to fix. I was quoted $650 to have a local autoshop replace. The only thing I have found is the 2013 B/U camera replacement on a HONDA CRV 2013. I thought it might be analogous. In any event, if I proceed, I will post my results here. Too often I enter these mechanical adventures with a variety of outcomes... often tragic.
 

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Mark88, I'd actually like to know how to get the plastic panels off of the hatch door so I can access the camera PLUS not leave any tool marks. And do I need to buy plastic fasteners to replace the one-time use originals? I'd guess that maybe 20% of the time the camera works OK so I'm hoping for something easy like a failing/loose connector or corrosion I can remove. I agree that Nothing's Easy.
 

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Mark88, I'd actually like to know how to get the plastic panels off of the hatch door so I can access the camera PLUS not leave any tool marks. And do I need to buy plastic fasteners to replace the one-time use originals? I'd guess that maybe 20% of the time the camera works OK so I'm hoping for something easy like a failing/loose connector or corrosion I can remove. I agree that Nothing's Easy.
Jack, it seems the Honda Odyssey hatch is similar and I have seen a decent YouTube video on that.
the last question and comments on this video apply to us... and looking now at the car, the hatch looks identical.
the video reflects your questions as well...and mine...how not to screw it up. the common thread is buying the cheap trim removal kit on Amazon I guess.
2009-2015 Honda Pilot Rear View Camera Assembly
Part Number:
39530-SZA-A01
from Honda Parts Guys
I need to call them to make sure its not the wide angle lens for my car.
 

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The cameras are trim-level specific, with the upper trims getting a camera matched to the higher screen resolution. There are some camera stories here about choosing certain aftermarket replacements, and ending up with two sets of guide lines on the screen. Search is your friend of course. Were the issue mine, I'd probably be searching out the best price on the Honda camera. The work/time to change it is bigger than the cost of the camera itself.
 

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Thank, Dr. I saw reference that the NAV system had the wide angle lens. The Honda Parts guys just confirmed my camera so I think I am pretty set there. Camera w/o wide angle for my EX-L with no NAV.
Just pulling together some last details before I embark on this adventure...namely extra trim clips as I am sure to break a couple.
and yes...planning to buy Honda specific. I saw the "double lines" issues during my search. Question is now whether to go Honda Parts or go via Amazon which appears to have a specific replacement for this specific camera model for the Honda Pilot ...and save that $100. No double lines issue with this product per the few available reports.
BTW doc, am I getting input from an internist, a surgeon, or a psychiatrist? anesthesiologists tend to be best with fixing things on the fly. and I will refrain from referencing gyn's as today's political climate is very unforgiving and someone will get offended (feigned or otherwise) ;-) please have a sense of humor with my comment. it is all meant in fun
 

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Undergrads in engineering, postgrad in computer science. I've taken a few first-aid courses... :)
 

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OEM camera is an Alpine, a clone of HCE-C114. You can put in the HCE-C1100, and it should fit the mounting bracket pretty much perfectly. Also, most aftermarket cameras work on 12V. Pilot supplies 8V, that many cameras will not like. Alpine cameras are 6-8V. If you get the C1100, it has a connector designed for easy aftermarket install.
Got this real thin round 4-pin connector mating with the easy-pull extension wire. The 4 wires are camera power/ground and video signal/ground. If you look at other end of extension, you see the red+black and yellow+black wire pairs. My suggestion is to strip a bit of outer sleeve from the extension a few inches from the camera end, and making a note which black goes where before cutting. Then cut the factory connector off the OEM camera, and splice extension wires to it.
The camera connector is 6-position.
#1 - yellow - camera presence - short to ground.
#2 - grey - shield - ground to tailgate.
#3 - white - video signal - yellow wire
#4 - green - power ground - the black paired to the red.
#5 - video ground - the black paired to yellow.
#6 - VCC - red wire.
 

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OEM camera is an Alpine, a clone of HCE-C114. You can put in the HCE-C1100, and it should fit the mounting bracket pretty much perfectly. Also, most aftermarket cameras work on 12V. Pilot supplies 8V, that many cameras will not like. Alpine cameras are 6-8V. If you get the C1100, it has a connector designed for easy aftermarket install.
Got this real thin round 4-pin connector mating with the easy-pull extension wire. The 4 wires are camera power/ground and video signal/ground. If you look at other end of extension, you see the red+black and yellow+black wire pairs. My suggestion is to strip a bit of outer sleeve from the extension a few inches from the camera end, and making a note which black goes where before cutting. Then cut the factory connector off the OEM camera, and splice extension wires to it.
The camera connector is 6-position.
#1 - yellow - camera presence - short to ground.
#2 - grey - shield - ground to tailgate.
#3 - white - video signal - yellow wire
#4 - green - power ground - the black paired to the red.
#5 - video ground - the black paired to yellow.
#6 - VCC - red wire.
are you sure about the 8v camera?
Im at the process of all my trim removed and about the attack the camera, so I want to buy something compatible. The OP camera is 12v. I suppose its possible a 12v cam could run on 8v, but I doubt it.
I guess I could also just rip it all apart and test with a multimeter….
 

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Thank, Dr. I saw reference that the NAV system had the wide angle lens. The Honda Parts guys just confirmed my camera so I think I am pretty set there. Camera w/o wide angle for my EX-L with no NAV.
Just pulling together some last details before I embark on this adventure...namely extra trim clips as I am sure to break a couple.
and yes...planning to buy Honda specific. I saw the "double lines" issues during my search. Question is now whether to go Honda Parts or go via Amazon which appears to have a specific replacement for this specific camera model for the Honda Pilot ...and save that $100. No double lines issue with this product per the few available reports.
BTW doc, am I getting input from an internist, a surgeon, or a psychiatrist? anesthesiologists tend to be best with fixing things on the fly. and I will refrain from referencing gyn's as today's political climate is very unforgiving and someone will get offended (feigned or otherwise) ;-) please have a sense of humor with my comment. it is all meant in fun
Did you buy a camera? If so, can you link to it? (Assuming it worked for you). Thanks
 

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Mark88, I'd actually like to know how to get the plastic panels off of the hatch door so I can access the camera PLUS not leave any tool marks. And do I need to buy plastic fasteners to replace the one-time use originals? I'd guess that maybe 20% of the time the camera works OK so I'm hoping for something easy like a failing/loose connector or corrosion I can remove. I agree that Nothing's Easy.
If you haven’t tackled this yet, there are some other threads in the forum that go over the process, although not with detailed pictures.

the quick dirty explanation:
  • Start on the top piece of trim (closest to roof), either the left or right, doesn’t matter
  • once the top is off, start working on either the left and right panels that go down, beside the glass
  • on the big bottom panel, pop the hand hold thing out from the bottom
  • if you have a pull strap, pop the tab, then it’s a screw or nut to losen. Remove that
  • then work your way around the trim. I spent the $12 on a nylon trim kit. you could use screw drivers and what not, but they’ll absolutely scratch something. So in my opinion, the $12 was well spent. Once you have all the tabs popped, I found sitting in the trunk and lowering the gate into my lap (with the glass open) allowed me to shimmy the piece up. You need the glass open due to the latch fitting into the trim cut out
if you’ve never removed trim, it does take a little force. You need to pop plastic clips out. It’s a fine line between popping the clip and snapping plastic. Once you get the feel of popping a couple, it’ll get easier.

first piece of trim off the top. The sides are pretty easy
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive design Car


the large piece of trim - note the white tabs. knowing where they are can give you a better idea where you need to push the trim tool in and “pop”
Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood


the very first post in this thread shows where the screws and tabs are from the lift gate. this picture shows them marked from the removed chrome. After detaching the wire harness, I used a socket to take the nuts off. The left and right tabs could be pinched with needle nose pliers and pushed. Using a trim tool, from sitting in the pilot with the gate closed and window open, you can pry directly at the Honda logo. Using a long screw driver or similar, you can push from within the pilot to try and pop the last middle tab. a flash light looking by the power window lock assembly will help.
Vehicle Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior
 

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DrBob and JackPA--
So I just spent 2 hours and replaced the camera with one bought on Amazon. This is for my 2015 Honda Pilot EX-L. What I learned...
1. I am a better doctor than I am a mechanic ..otherwise I would already be in jail.
2. As described elsewhere, pull off the upper trim first. Mine came off as a large "horseshoe" intact. Putting it back on, I took the pieces apart and it made it easier.
3. I just muscled the lower larger section off. Make sure you unscrew the strap and remove the door latch as described elsewhere. Using trim tools made this easy. I BROKE THE MOLDING around the wiper housing. Guess I just f73cked up... irrelevant as the broken piece is totally hidden despite being 2"x2"... I can live with it. I didn't pop it out from the bottom. I missed the advice issued earlier. Intuitively, I replaced this easier doing the reverse appropriately.
4. I used the old plastic fasteners and just made sure to remove the 2 which were still in place and not on the trim. I figured I could always use the car ugly without the trim in place and get the fasteners later if needed.
5. The camera lined up fine. Put cones out and just like the old camera.
6. The screws for the camera assembly were badly rusted. One head stripped out and in trying to remove it, I broke the plastic hole where it screwed in. I just used a larger/longer screw and it fit without issue.
7. I did not replace lights bulbs and other things while I had the thing open. I considered smearing a little silicone seal around some things but just got the patient off the table a quickly as I could.

The patient survived. Like going to Brazil for plastic surgery. Cheaper but maybe not the perfect outcome. No beauty contest winner but she can still cook.
 
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