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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Engine starts, it will go if you push only1/2 inch on pedal. After that the engine begins to stall.
honda dealer baffled. No warning lights. They are replacing fuel pump and fuel pressure switch. Any help?!?!?
 

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Sounds like you need to work with a shop that's going to troubleshoot the problem rather than throw parts at it. They should be able to hook it up to a data logger and graph throttle position, fuel pressure, O2 readings, etc. From there it should indicate what is happening with the engine and with the ECU when you give it throttle. Hopefully they've done that and see low fuel pressure.... but if they're baffled I think I'd find somewhere else to take it or insist a higher ranking tech get involved. If the problem is easily reproduced there really is no excuse for guessing.
 
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Sounds like you need to work with a shop that's going to troubleshoot the problem rather than throw parts at it. They should be able to hook it up to a data logger and graph throttle position, fuel pressure, O2 readings, etc. From there it should indicate what is happening with the engine and with the ECU when you give it throttle. Hopefully they've done that and see low fuel pressure.... but if they're baffled I think I'd find somewhere else to take it or insist a higher ranking tech get involved. If the problem is easily reproduced there really is no excuse for guessing.
I agree... the fact a Honda dealer is "baffled" is baffling. Maybe the "Service Advisor" is baffled..... that happens pretty easily.
 
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I agree... the fact a Honda dealer is "baffled" is baffling. Maybe the "Service Advisor" is baffled..... that happens pretty easily.
I'm truly hoping it's the service advisor and a tech was seeing a fuel pressure drop off to justify replacing a fuel pump... otherwise if the techs are baffled yeah... RUN. (fast) :)
 

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We had something similar randomly pop up on a 2010 Honda Civic a few years ago while my wife was out. It stalled on her while slowing down and making a right turn at a light. It would idle fine and barely accelerate under light pressure. Once you got going it would run mostly normal until slowing down again. I was able to limp it in to the dealership a couple of miles away, but by the time we got there it started running fine. They looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong with it and it's run fine ever since.

They had a couple of theories:
  • Bad fuel that worked itself out (I doubt this). We had been using the same fuel for years.
  • They did find a leaf in the air box by the MAF. They suspect it may have been floating around in there interfering with the MAF and then finally settled somewhere out of the way. This could have caused the car to have the air/fuel mixture ratios off and cause the stall. I think this may have been it. I had recently had an oil change done at a mechanic (no longer use them) and I suspect they knocked the leaf in when checking the air filter condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sounds like you need to work with a shop that's going to troubleshoot the problem rather than throw parts at it. They should be able to hook it up to a data logger and graph throttle position, fuel pressure, O2 readings, etc. From there it should indicate what is happening with the engine and with the ECU when you give it throttle. Hopefully they've done that and see low fuel pressure.... but if they're baffled I think I'd find somewhere else to take it or insist a higher ranking tech get involved. If the problem is easily reproduced there really is no excuse for guessing.
Hey, dealer figured it out Replace pressure sensor which which made engine not run at all. They said ‘we will guess’ that it is fuel pump but won’t promise that would solve it. After 7 days to ship part (???) from North American Honda, we’re in LA area (many many Honda dealers) the fuel pump was replaced and it works. No onboard computer information or warnings.
Its fixed.
 

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Glad to hear it was solved. But... Honda has a massive parts support operation in Torrance, smaller in the inland empire, great one in Sacramento, another in Portland. Bicycle courier?
 

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Hey, dealer figured it out Replace pressure sensor which which made engine not run at all. They said ‘we will guess’ that it is fuel pump but won’t promise that would solve it. After 7 days to ship part (???) from North American Honda, we’re in LA area (many many Honda dealers) the fuel pump was replaced and it works. No onboard computer information or warnings.
Its fixed.
...was it the pressure sensor or the fuel pump? Just curious. My wife's '12 EX-L has begun doing this intermittently. She told me about it, but I had never experienced it first-hand. I thought it was bad gas, so I used a couple rounds of fuel treatment and a tank full of premium gasoline and thought I had fixed it. Last Saturday - when taking her to the hospital with COVID - it surged/stalled about 3x when starting down the street. The engine light was flashing, but I couldn't stop - had to get her to the hospital. Pilot has run fine since then, but I don't trust it. This may be the same problem?

TIA,
Brad
 

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I'm not aware of any "fuel pressure sensor" used in our cars. I suspect the fuel pressure regulator is what the OP ended up replacing.

Test fuel pressure. On our Pilots, the fuel pressure regulator is in the tank, so no way to test it independently.

By the time you drop the fuel tank to replace a pump or regulator, you can as easily put both in at the same time.

Fuel pressure regulators tend not to be intermittent, unless there's crud in them. They see fuel only after it's passed through the pump suction strainer in the tank. If there's dirt in the tank fine enough to pass through the pump strainer, it's possible the regulator will be held open. Easiest test is by watching fuel pressure after engine stop. If it drops rapidly to zero (within a few seconds) there's a reasonable chance the regulator is leaking.
 

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I'm not aware of any "fuel pressure sensor" used in our cars. I suspect the fuel pressure regulator is what the OP ended up replacing.

Test fuel pressure. On our Pilots, the fuel pressure regulator is in the tank, so no way to test it independently.

By the time you drop the fuel tank to replace a pump or regulator, you can as easily put both in at the same time.

Fuel pressure regulators tend not to be intermittent, unless there's crud in them. They see fuel only after it's passed through the pump suction strainer in the tank. If there's dirt in the tank fine enough to pass through the pump strainer, it's possible the regulator will be held open. Easiest test is by watching fuel pressure after engine stop. If it drops rapidly to zero (within a few seconds) there's a reasonable chance the regulator is leaking.
Thanks, Dr. Bob. By watching the fuel pressure, do you mean observing the fuel gauge? Otherwise, do I need a diagnostic tool here?

I want to fix this before it leaves my wife stranded.

Thanks again,
Brad
 

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You'll need a fuel pressure gauge to do the testing. Most local parts stores will loan you one with a deposit. Plan on half an hour or so with a cold engine. There's some fuel spray when the gauge is connected and disconnected, so have a fire extinguisher handy. I haven't needed to find a pressure test port on mine yet, but the general guidance is to connect the gauge, bump the engine on the starter to get a reading. Watch the deterioration in pressure after the key is off again to help diagnose the pump (always low) or regulator (bleeds down almost immediately after pump stop). If the test shows either symptom, plan on a pump and regulator together when you replace.
 
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