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2012 Pilot Touring Valve Clearance

1259 Views 24 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Nail Grease
Hey everyone,
I'm interested in completing a valve adjustment on my 2012 Pilot, but can't seem to find the clearances for the intake and exhaust online. Can anyone help me out?
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Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold

from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold

from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
Thank you!
Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold

from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
So I guess some confusion in this would be which feeler gauge to use, since these specifications can have more than one feeler gauge fit between them (I don’t mean at one a time, but a different size). Should we aim for the middle of these numbers?
Yes, aim for the middle...

For those playing along at home, the feeler gauge reading you are searching for is the tightest setting under which you can stuff the target feeler gauge. NOT the tightest one you can barely pull out. So adjust, stuff. Low side of range fits, snug. High side of range doesn't go at all. Then given the option, exhaust valves tend to stretch faster than cams and followers wear, so maybe a little bi looser in the range. Intake is the opposite, so maybe at the tighter end of the range. Easier to get the mid-range if you have true metric feeler gauges, by the way. I usually buy longer (10-12") versions of exactly the metric gauges I want to use, as a go/no-go pair, vs. an imperial set in a folding kit.

Slvr7 may have some more Honda-specific guidance on adjustment ranges. I know what works for some other cars. After many decades adjusting valves too regularly on other engines I have a good idea what works on them. I'll speculate that the J35 is similar but there may be more to them than I know.
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Yes, aim for the middle...

For those playing along at home, the feeler gauge reading you are searching for is the tightest setting under which you can stuff the target feeler gauge. NOT the tightest one you can barely pull out. So adjust, stuff. Low side of range fits, snug. High side of range doesn't go at all. Then given the option, exhaust valves tend to stretch faster than cams and followers wear, so maybe a little bi looser in the range. Intake is the opposite, so maybe at the tighter end of the range. Easier to get the mid-range if you have true metric feeler gauges, by the way. I usually buy longer (10-12") versions of exactly the metric gauges I want to use, as a go/no-go pair, vs. an imperial set in a folding kit.

Slvr7 may have some more Honda-specific guidance on adjustment ranges. I know what works for some other cars. After many decades adjusting valves too regularly on other engines I have a good idea what works on them. I'll speculate that the J35 is similar but there may be more to them than I know.
So if I were aiming for the middle… Use a 0.22mm for intake, snug, a 0.24mm shouldn’t fit.., and a 0.30mm for exhaust but set loosely but no greater than 0.32mm. Would this be accurate?
I found this manual for valve adjustments on Honda JZ2 and JZ3 engines. It says to select the correct feeler gauge. What is the correct feeler gauge?
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I found this manual for valve adjustments on Honda JZ2 and JZ3 engines. It says to select the correct feeler gauge. What is the correct feeler gauge?
Quoting my own question^
Trying to breathe more life into this discussion.
0.008" can be stuffed in at the intake adjustment, 0.009" gauge won't go at all. Go/no-go.

0.030" can be stuffed into the exhaust valve adjustment. 0.032 won't go at all. Go/no-go.
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@Danielle46323
@Slvr7
Would you have anything to add?
Thanks
Bumping ^ to keep alive.
0.008" can be stuffed in at the intake adjustment, 0.009" gauge won't go at all. Go/no-go.

0.030" can be stuffed into the exhaust valve adjustment. 0.032 won't go at all. Go/no-go.
Well after a few days of feeling under the weather, I decided this was the day to begin adjusting the valves and I believe I’ve discovered how and why people doing their own valve adjustment make a mistake. It has to to with the feeler gauges, mistaking that 0.20-0.24 is the same as .020-.024 or that 0.28-0.32 is the same as .028-.032. As you notice with this chart, gauges in inches can give you a similar number beginning with .0 . I do not have a .22mm for aiming in the middle for intake valve clearance. My set does have .30mm for exhaust.
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What brand feeler gauges do you use?
Should I trust a cheap set?
A cheap set is usually adequate. If you don't have faith in the markings, a micrometer is handy to verify. For most things my vintage (read: ancient...) K-D feeler gauge set has served me well for decades. When I was addicted to maintaining more cars more often, I'd add long individual Starrett feeler gauge strips to the tool collection for specific engines. On some of the more interesting cylinder heads, like air-cooled 911 motors, I made a dial indicator fixture and would read the dry clearance from the adjustment screwhead. The longer strips make it easier to get to gaps tucked among several adjacent actuators. More than fifty years later now, I'm sure there are many inexpensive suppliers of the longer strip feeler gauges, and for a lot less money than what the Starrett pieces cost way back when.

Hints: For an accurate reading the heads need to be stone-cold, like overnight cold. The gap you are measuring needs to be clean and free of any oil. If you find yourself stacking gauge leaves to get to a particular total thickness, the leaves must be surgically clean and dry (no oil or crud) between the leaves. Even then, using stacked leaves for go/no-go is far from ideal. I use a paint marking pen (hobby or craft store) to tag rocker arms that have been adjusted, and set masking-taped labels with cylinder numbers. The paint pen is also handy for highlighting the radial cylinder lines on the cam gears. I'm not above using paint or tape marks on a harmonic balancer to make individual labelled cylinder marks. Really accurate cam timing sometimes demands a degree wheel, but fortunately most street engines are forgiving when it comes to measuring just the valve clearance measurements at TDC. Paint marker tics are plenty good.
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Well after being comfortable with the feeler gauges I have.., I adjusted cylinder #4 since it’s easy to access. I was expecting to find tight exhaust valves but it was just the opposite. Both intake and exhaust valves were loose. This is a 311k mile engine. Opinions?
Go with the Honda's measurements. If the exhaust valves aren't stretched/tight, celebrate with an extra tall one after you are done. Stretched exhaust valves risk burning and even more stretching due to less contact (cooling) time on the seat, so finding them slightly loose is a Good Sign.
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Go with the Honda's measurements. If the exhaust valves aren't stretched/tight, celebrate with an extra tall one after you are done. Stretched exhaust valves risk burning and even more stretching due to less contact (cooling) time on the seat, so finding them slightly loose is a Good Sign.
Thank you for the reassurance. Pressing onward. 👨🏻‍🔧
Don't know how long you've run VCM disabled on this vehicle, but it may have saved it from "tight valve syndrome", reported in some Honda products (mostly pre 2007, I think) which had softer than usual valve seats (reportedly). In the VCM era engines, I can suspect VCM operation creates more soot/carbon in the exhaust, which acts as fine lapping powder, wearing at the seats. When Honda adjusted my '12 valves at ~ 140k, they did find some exhaust to the tighter end of spec. I didn't ask which cylinders and whether those corresponded to the VCM cylinders which ran 50k miles with VCM enabled.

At 117k or 300k mi (I missed which vehicle) I would expect the prevailing wear on a well maintain engine, with immaterial oil burning, and thus maybe we should expect the valve stems and rockers to wear faster than valve seats?

Re: lash, I ran into a similar "Honda" valve adj on a mower, where the center of the range was a metric value. Given that those valves always wore to "loose", I used a similar go/no go on adjacent "thousandth's" feeler gauge set (40 years old), as Bob suggested.
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Don't know how long you've run VCM disabled on this vehicle, but it may have saved it from "tight valve syndrome", reported in some Honda products (mostly pre 2007, I think) which had softer than usual valve seats (reportedly). In the VCM era engines, I can suspect VCM operation creates more soot/carbon in the exhaust, which acts as fine lapping powder, wearing at the seats. When Honda adjusted my '12 valves at ~ 140k, they did find some exhaust to the tighter end of spec. I didn't ask which cylinders and whether those corresponded to the VCM cylinders which ran 50k miles with VCM enabled.

At 117k or 300k mi (I missed which vehicle) I would expect the prevailing wear on a well maintain engine, with immaterial oil burning, and thus maybe we should expect the valve stems and rockers to wear faster than valve seats?

Re: lash, I ran into a similar "Honda" valve adj on a mower, where the center of the range was a metric value. Given that those valves always wore to "loose", I used a similar go/no go on adjacent "thousandth's" feeler gauge set (40 years old), as Bob suggested.
So far I’ve adjusted the front 3 cylinders (4,5,6) and it was the last exhaust valve on #6 that was a little tight. I had to loosen to get a 0.30mm to fit. I must admit that there is some apprehension in doing this on this high mileage engine cause you figure it has significant wear. The other 10 valves needed to be tightened, 2 intake valves significantly as a .009 fit loosely. This engine had the VCM disabled around 211k. I plan on getting cylinders 1,2,3 done this week. Definitely be harder on the back muscles. Likely will need a little help and encouragement to get through it.
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A friend who does a lot more in-car work than I do has a platform creeper that holds him over the engine bay on a height-adjustable platform. Has tool trays and catch bags. Like engine stand legs that extend under the car, platform on top. If I were doing valve adjustments on a lot of Pilots. I'd be looking at something like that. As it is I cover the front end with movers pads anyway. I haven't yet needed to work on the rear valves or head in the Pilot. K's 4Runner is the only other taller car in the fleet. The rest are shorter, and usually get raised some for any even half-serious engine bay work.

Advil prophylactically is my habit for most leaning-over projects.
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