Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold
from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold
from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
Thank you!Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold
from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
So I guess some confusion in this would be which feeler gauge to use, since these specifications can have more than one feeler gauge fit between them (I don’t mean at one a time, but a different size). Should we aim for the middle of these numbers?Intake 0.20 - 0.24mm (0.008 - 0.009") Cold
Exhaust 0.28 - 0.32mm (0.011 - 0.012") Cold
from section 2-2 in the workshop manual
So if I were aiming for the middle… Use a 0.22mm for intake, snug, a 0.24mm shouldn’t fit.., and a 0.30mm for exhaust but set loosely but no greater than 0.32mm. Would this be accurate?Yes, aim for the middle...
For those playing along at home, the feeler gauge reading you are searching for is the tightest setting under which you can stuff the target feeler gauge. NOT the tightest one you can barely pull out. So adjust, stuff. Low side of range fits, snug. High side of range doesn't go at all. Then given the option, exhaust valves tend to stretch faster than cams and followers wear, so maybe a little bi looser in the range. Intake is the opposite, so maybe at the tighter end of the range. Easier to get the mid-range if you have true metric feeler gauges, by the way. I usually buy longer (10-12") versions of exactly the metric gauges I want to use, as a go/no-go pair, vs. an imperial set in a folding kit.
Slvr7 may have some more Honda-specific guidance on adjustment ranges. I know what works for some other cars. After many decades adjusting valves too regularly on other engines I have a good idea what works on them. I'll speculate that the J35 is similar but there may be more to them than I know.
Quoting my own question^I found this manual for valve adjustments on Honda JZ2 and JZ3 engines. It says to select the correct feeler gauge. What is the correct feeler gauge?
Well after a few days of feeling under the weather, I decided this was the day to begin adjusting the valves and I believe I’ve discovered how and why people doing their own valve adjustment make a mistake. It has to to with the feeler gauges, mistaking that 0.20-0.24 is the same as .020-.024 or that 0.28-0.32 is the same as .028-.032. As you notice with this chart, gauges in inches can give you a similar number beginning with .0 . I do not have a .22mm for aiming in the middle for intake valve clearance. My set does have .30mm for exhaust.0.008" can be stuffed in at the intake adjustment, 0.009" gauge won't go at all. Go/no-go.
0.030" can be stuffed into the exhaust valve adjustment. 0.032 won't go at all. Go/no-go.
Thank you for the reassurance. Pressing onward. 👨🏻🔧Go with the Honda's measurements. If the exhaust valves aren't stretched/tight, celebrate with an extra tall one after you are done. Stretched exhaust valves risk burning and even more stretching due to less contact (cooling) time on the seat, so finding them slightly loose is a Good Sign.
So far I’ve adjusted the front 3 cylinders (4,5,6) and it was the last exhaust valve on #6 that was a little tight. I had to loosen to get a 0.30mm to fit. I must admit that there is some apprehension in doing this on this high mileage engine cause you figure it has significant wear. The other 10 valves needed to be tightened, 2 intake valves significantly as a .009 fit loosely. This engine had the VCM disabled around 211k. I plan on getting cylinders 1,2,3 done this week. Definitely be harder on the back muscles. Likely will need a little help and encouragement to get through it.Don't know how long you've run VCM disabled on this vehicle, but it may have saved it from "tight valve syndrome", reported in some Honda products (mostly pre 2007, I think) which had softer than usual valve seats (reportedly). In the VCM era engines, I can suspect VCM operation creates more soot/carbon in the exhaust, which acts as fine lapping powder, wearing at the seats. When Honda adjusted my '12 valves at ~ 140k, they did find some exhaust to the tighter end of spec. I didn't ask which cylinders and whether those corresponded to the VCM cylinders which ran 50k miles with VCM enabled.
At 117k or 300k mi (I missed which vehicle) I would expect the prevailing wear on a well maintain engine, with immaterial oil burning, and thus maybe we should expect the valve stems and rockers to wear faster than valve seats?
Re: lash, I ran into a similar "Honda" valve adj on a mower, where the center of the range was a metric value. Given that those valves always wore to "loose", I used a similar go/no go on adjacent "thousandth's" feeler gauge set (40 years old), as Bob suggested.