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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have noticed a strange issue with the voltage coming out of the vehicle outlets. I tried a tiny inverter and it would cut in and out, on and off every few seconds. Other times it works 100%.
Even with it disconnected with a volt meter, it will flip between 12 volts and back up to around 14 for several seconds, then back down to 12. Other days it will hover right at 14 volts and never flip back and forth.
Note: everything is unplugged when I was testing with a meter (inverter, cell charger, etc).
Only thing is causes issues is the inverter that says it needs a min 12.5 volts.
 

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Check battery voltage and see if that's moving around. Cable connections, ground and battery condition affect terminal voltage. A good battery offers about 12.6 terminal Volts at full charge. It takes very little load to pull that below the 12.5 you state as minimum. Engine will need to be running and other loads limited so the alternator can maintain the battery terminal voltage enough to restore the charge level under load, especially at engine idle.

The four accessory outlets receive power via dedicated fuse and relay for each. There's a practical limit of about 150W each, and inverters tend to be maybe 85% efficient at best. 120 Watts of AC is a practical limit for inverters plugged into accessory outlets in the car.

Whie looking for power options in the cabin, I started along a path that would take advantage of the 30A circuit to the trailer wiring that lives in the left side of the luggage boot. It takes a little work to get good access and make that work, but it's there. That would support about 250W from an inverter mounted there. Turns out I won't need it after all, but that doesn't mean others won't.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After some more research, I was told by the dealer that they battery was toast. One year old and it is a Honda battery with an eight year warranty that they wont cover. But thats another story for another day. I switched my 2010 pilot battery with this 2012 just to see if they were right. It is a new battery. Guess what? Its not the battery.

So even with the car off, putting a clamping DC meter on the battery cable I am reading about 2.5 amps being pulled. That is with the inside lights off, doors closed and locked. Everything is unplugged from the lighter outlets (not that it matters, they are dead since the car is turned off).

So what is drawing the power? After a few days not being driven, the battery is low enough that it wont start, or hard to start. Fully charged it is at about 12.6 or so at the battery. If its low at 12.3 at the battery, it will be less at the outlet, like 12.1 due to voltage drop at the back of the pilot, and the inverter gets grumpy until it charges up from running. I never gave the battery enough time to discharge in the past since I drove often. Now with covid I am home a ton and it gets a chance to drain the battery.
 

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The list of Usual Suspects starts with the AC clutch relay. They have a habit of sticking after a certain number of cycles, and that leaves the clutch engaged even when the car is off. Relay is under the hood, so you might hear the clutch disengage as you remove the old relay. Clink! Replace with new.

Let us know how that works for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is a no go there. I pulled it. Still having the same current draw on the battery, and was able to test with a meter, the relay is good. I tested a few others in the same box with the same result.
 

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Start pulling fuses to isolate which circuit the current draw is coming from. 2.5A is a huge parasitic draw.
 

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Title says it all. I'm supplanting my messed up freshwater siphon (presently understanding the breakage was most likely identified with this as of not long ago unfamiliar electrical issue). I checked the open voltage at the gracefully wire prior to grafting it to the siphon's wires, and it peruses 12.4V. Everything looks OK. So I butt associate and therapist wrap the siphon to the wiring, screw it to the bulkhead, and go flip the switch with extraordinary desires for hearing it prime itself. In any case, nothing. I realize the siphon works since I tried it on my vehicle battery and avoided the weight switch. So perhaps the breaker on the board just blew? No, great there. Cut the wires and check once more. Still 12.4V at the wire, no change. Huh?
192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1 jpg to pdf
 
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