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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a new noise when my 2012 Pilot is turned sharply. It only seems to be theere when accelerating such as turning onto a road from a stop sign. It lasts for a few seconds. If I’m in my driveway going slowly I don’t hear it. It happens on both left and right turns. I’d call it a hum or buzz except it’s mechanical and not electrical. I was thinking CV joints but I’ve had a bad one on a different car and that was more of a clicking. It’s not the power steering pump. I know what those sound like.
 

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I noticed a new noise when my 2012 Pilot is turned sharply. It only seems to be theere when accelerating such as turning onto a road from a stop sign. It lasts for a few seconds. If I’m in my driveway going slowly I don’t hear it. It happens on both left and right turns. I’d call it a hum or buzz except it’s mechanical and not electrical. I was thinking CV joints but I’ve had a bad one on a different car and that was more of a clicking. It’s not the power steering pump. I know what those sound like.
I had a very similar, if not exactly the same, problem with my 2012 Pilot. It was more a shudder than a noise though. The dealer changed the transmission fluid using three drain and refills with DW1. It did not fix the problem.

I was able to fix it by changing the transmission fluid to Valvoline Max Life full synthetic transmission fluid. I drained and refilled it 5 times over the course of a month or two and each time the problem became less apparent. Now it's totally gone.

Here's some information on what the bottle looks like and where to get it.

 

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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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I noticed a new noise when my 2012 Pilot is turned sharply. It only seems to be theere when accelerating such as turning onto a road from a stop sign. It lasts for a few seconds. If I’m in my driveway going slowly I don’t hear it. It happens on both left and right turns. I’d call it a hum or buzz except it’s mechanical and not electrical. I was thinking CV joints but I’ve had a bad one on a different car and that was more of a clicking. It’s not the power steering pump. I know what those sound like.
Worn CV axles will also cause a worble, a repeating lurching forward when accelerating out of a turn.
I agree with @jimmaki 's assessment and fix. Its likely a transmission shudder. Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF will perform better in your 5-speed transmission.
 

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My guess is bad wheel bearings or tie rods. Jack the front up and try to shake the wheels in 12-6 and 9/3 clock positions. The plays can be very small.

You are right, worn CV joints make tick tick tick sounds during turns.
 

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@crokett
If this is a wheel bearing problem, you will hear this hum or vibration noise increase in pitch with increased speed.
Perhaps his bearings start to wear out and he has good ears that can detect low freq. humming/grinding sound. :p. If it is not bearings, he can rule out thing without spending any dollars yet.
 

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My guess is bad wheel bearings or tie rods. Jack the front up and try to shake the wheels in 12-6 and 9/3 clock positions. The plays can be very small.

You are right, worn CV joints make tick tick tick sounds during turns.
OP said it only lasts a few seconds after a turn. Wouldn't a bad wheel bearing just get louder or higher pitched with speed (or at least not just stop making noise), and not just after a turn?

To this day I don't know why I only experienced the shudder for a few seconds after making a turn (right worse than left) ... but I do know what fixed it, or at least what made the symptom go away.

Because it only happened after a turn accelerating, I thought maybe it was a differential slip or partial lockup attempt. But I never proved it All seems well with the switch from Honda ATF to all synthetic Valvoline Max Life, so now I'm not interested in pursuing the cause. In my opinion the "problem" was DW1.
 

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If it is something with transmission, I guess it should've also happened during straight line at same speed.

During turns, each wheel travels different distances. Internal differentials is at work. This could make transmission involved. Or perhaps, VSA may've detected a slip and activated the stability braking making a hum.

Just a thought.
 

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I have the same problem. 2012-2013 pilots have had a lot of TSB’s about this. 9 times out of 10 it’s a front side wheel bearing. Couple hundred bucks ($300 at most) to replace one.
 

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Also sounds like the normal noise of the VSA kicking in when you 'accelerate' on a tight turn starting off!

Watch for the VSA light to blink on breifly when the noise happens.

If it does- take off slower! Fixed it! (If it's the VSA kicking on and off for a short time)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
VSA is interesting. I don’t think it’s a wheel bearing. I had a rear one go on this car. The noise is definitely different and does not increase in pitch or volume with speed. The bad wheel bearing did both,and was always there. This only lasts a few seconds. I would also expect transmission to happen whenever the car accelerates and not just on turns. I’ll look at new fluid though. It can’t hurt.
I have a Bluetooth OBD scanner. Would that provide any useful info if. I had it plugged in?
 

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Also sounds like the normal noise of the VSA kicking in when you 'accelerate' on a tight turn starting off!

Watch for the VSA light to blink on breifly when the noise happens.

If it does- take off slower! Fixed it! (If it's the VSA kicking on and off for a short time)
Are there any other signs the VSA is kicking in other than noise and the light blinking on? A shudder perhaps? Would VSA kick on making a normal 90 degree turn on a paved intersection with the same acceleration used starting off from red lights or stop signs (assuming you stop) without peeling rubber?

I guess a simple test would be to turn off VSA and see if the symptom(s) disappear ....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m going to try turning off VSA. I’m also going to sit still and turn the steering wheel as far as it will go and see if that causes the problem or contributes to it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update. The noise is there with VSA off. My daughter agrees that it is coming from the left front side of the car. It does not happen when the car is sitting still and I turn the wheel. It seems more prevalent on right hand turns from stopped, and if I go slowly or am not accelerating it does not happen.
 

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Update. The noise is there with VSA off. My daughter agrees that it is coming from the left front side of the car. It does not happen when the car is sitting still and I turn the wheel. It seems more prevalent on right hand turns from stopped, and if I go slowly or am not accelerating it does not happen.
Any signs of anything rubbing, including the inside facing side of the tire? Might want to take it to a shop or tire store and have them put it up on a lift and check the tires, wheel, brakes, dust shields and suspension parts, especially the tie rods and lower control rod bushing, for any signs of leaking or excessive play and wear marks where none should exist. Check again with the wheel turned hard right.

Take it to an empty parking lot and try the hard right turn but as soon as the noise starts release the steering wheel. Does the sound immediately stop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Take it to an empty parking lot and try the hard right turn but as soon as the noise starts release the steering wheel. Does the sound immediately stop?
The noise stops after a few seconds so it is tough to start turning and release it in time. I tried something else and did sharp u-turns and tight circles. The noise stopped after a few seconds, even though I was still turning. I'll try some more tests tonight with it.
 

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For grins, verify power steering fluid level and condition. Low level risks sucking air into the fluid, making a frothy-looking fluid that's noisy when pumped through the rack servo (technically, the "spool valve"). The reservoir design isn't exactly conducive to seeing foamy fluid, but will let you see low level if you check with the vehicle cold after sitting overnight. Adding fluid is easy, replacing it is not quite as easy but easily a DIY. Iterative process with sucking old fluid out of the reservoir, replacing it, run the engine and cycle the wheel lock to lock. Repeat. The reservoir holds a fraction of the total system capacity, so it takes several of these cycles to get the majority of the old fluid out. I've played games with soda bottles to do a single-step swap but it was messier than it was faster.

Foam running through the pump causes a 'moaning' noise in normal steering movement, noise at the pump. It causes a similar noise at the rack, louder when the steering is actually 'working'. I don't recommend sitting with the rack at a lock stop and still pulling on the steering wheel at any time, so test carefully.

If you do find low/foamy fluid, you owe it to yourself to find where the fluid is leaking.

Use Honda fluid unless you are confident in your hydraulic fluid knowledge. My bare-naked-eyeball and finger-smear test suggests that a D46 fluid might work, ATF won't. Honda or spec'd Honda-equivalent fluid should be fine.
 

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The noise stops after a few seconds so it is tough to start turning and release it in time. I tried something else and did sharp u-turns and tight circles. The noise stopped after a few seconds, even though I was still turning. I'll try some more tests tonight with it.
Does it make the noise if you turn the wheel but aren't moving? Does it do it in reverse? I'm running out of questions that make any sense.
 
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