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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All. I've combed through the many key fob posts to no avail. In brief, both my key fob and extra key fob have started operating intermittently. Many presses to activate locks and hatch. Replaced the batteries (Duracell DL1616) and the multimeter indicates new batteries are good. Key fobs flash when pressed. Cleaned the contacts and went through the reprogramming steps. Fobs activated the locks during the reprogramming process from inside the car fine, but still outside the car can take many attempts to activate the locks. (I used to be able to lock & honk from inside my house.) Another strange thing is my OEM remote starter is also not starting the car at all -- even with a good battery, cleaned battery contacts and light flickering, and even if standing right next to the car. My last option at this point is it could be a signal receiver unit/antenna problem. Can anyone tell me where the signal receiver unit for the key fob is located on the 2012 Pilot? And might the remote starter fob share this receiver unit? I REALLY don't want to bring it to the dealer if I don't have to. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The only other thing I can try different is the battery type. No one seems to sell CR1616 in my area, but was able to find DL1616, which is supposed to be the equivalent from Duracell. Maybe the transmitter is super finicky.
UPDATE: Was able to find CR1616 batteries. Not much difference. Also replaced the remote starter battery with a different new one. Ironically, it will only start the car if I am sitting behind the wheel. No response from outside of the car.
 

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The receiver is part of the Immobilizer-keyless control unit. That unit sits as part of the steering column support near your knees under and forward of the steering wheel. Communications with that device are via CANBUS, meaning any serious diagnosis needs the HDS system connected.

Stupid stuff that happens: Is there another key or maybe a garage door opener transmitter "running" in the car? It doesn't take a whole lot of "other" local transmitter to overwhelm the receiver and show the symptoms you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks, dr bob. I do have a garage door opener programed into one of the overhead buttons. I think I can change the operating frequency of the garage door opener and then reprogram the car button. But before I try that, probably easier to just unplug the garage door opener from the ceiling outlet to cut that transmission signal all together and see if it makes a difference. I don't think it will because the problem exists even away from home. But I'll try anything at this point to try to determine what the problem might be. Nothing new has been aded to the vehicle. Just carrying a new iPhone around with me. I'll try with it far away from me. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Just throwing this out.... You don't happen to have an after-market dash camera in your car do you? Some of the dash-cameras can interfere with the electronics . GPS of newer vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually, yes I have one. I've had it for a couple of years and it has never interfered with the fobs before. But like dr bob said, stupid stuff happens. So I will diconnect it and remove it from the car to see if that makes a different. Thanks for the suggestion, Tanner.
 

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Te garage door openers and other radio transmitters like that only risk interference when they are active. For most that means "button pressed". Added any new smart-keys to the Pilot bunch?

--

I drove a rental Ford Explorer into a client's site, where they had RFID badges. Big search coils at the drive up so it could see and read all the badges in the car. I made the mistake of turning the engine off to speak through the intercom station. Had to climb out the passenger door and push the car back a dozen feet to get the sensor for the smart key out of range of the RFID scanner before the engine would start.

Neighbor was asking about his erratic doors locking/unlocking. He failed to mention that he was using the spare keys set, cuz the primary set had been lost into the abyss next to the console, where it sat with the buttons pressed in the cusion.

Crazy stuff happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, no smart keys here. I will squeeze under the dash this weekend and try to locate the receiver unit. The schematic I found online showing the unit had a number of wire connections, one being an antenna connection. (Unfortunately, it did not show the mounting location of the unit, but I will go by your general description, dr bob.) I'm hoping it's something simple like the antenna connection somehow came loose. I would imagine that would severely limit the signal range of all of the fobs, like I am experiencing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE: So I crawled under my dash looking for the remote start reciever and found it just hanging where dr bob had described. The little black box had all of the connection ports shown in the schematic, but not all of the wires. Surprisingly, what is supposed to be an antenna connection had no wire connected to it. I looked high and low under there and found no disconnected wires. None of the connections seemed loose and the ground wire was fine, so I just tucked the unit more securly further up under the dash. Guess what.. For some reason it is now working better. I can now start the car from inside my house. And the keyless entry door lock fob is working better, too. Not the original long range, but still pretty good and more reliable. Crazy.
 
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