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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Looks really good! Looking forward to more pics!

Thank you! I am very impressed with the system as a whole, especially when you consider I am only using 1 sub and just 1 amp to power the system. I.M.O. I think it sounds good enough to place quite well in a IASCA SQ competition, but that's just me ;)
 
Looks great! I completed the first step this weekend. I ran the power cable from the battery, tapped into the existing subwoofer output of the stock HU and added a 500W amp and 12" subwoofer using a level converter. The sub alone made a huge difference. I haven't clipped the ANC mic yet. I've been turning off ANC though the diagnostic menu in the HU. That's a real pain in the rear but I wasn't sure which wire was for the ANC mic and which was the bluetooth mic. I am attaching a photo of the connector. Does anyone know which wire is for the ANC mic?

What I would like to do is rig up a couple of relays that would kill both ANC mic's when I turn the stereo on. That way, if I just want some peace and quiet, I can turn off the stereo and have the benefit of ANC. Another thought was to try putting a pot on the ANC mic to turn down the gain and tune it to the output of the sub so as to try to keep the ANC working but I have a feeling that would be an exercise in futility. Does anyone know if the ANC uses all the speakers or just the sub? If it is just the sub, "tuning" the mics may be possible.

The next step is to install an Alpine KTP-445U 40Wx4 amp that has speaker level inputs. After that, I'll see if I need to replace all the door speakers. It's a pain doing this a piece at a time but it allows me to check progress after each step.

-Joe

Thank you! I am very impressed with the system as a whole, especially when you consider I am only using 1 sub and just 1 amp to power the system. I.M.O. I think it sounds good enough to place quite well in a IASCA SQ competition, but that's just me ;)
 

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Hi Joe, I am not sure how the "relay or the pot" idea would work. I know most people have problems with the ANC & Sub, but I think the the ANC goes through all the speakers.

I am away from the house untill Weds. when I get back I could look up what mic is for the BT and what one is the darn ANC. :29:
 
The relays would be powered from the power antenna output of the HU. When the HU is powered on, it would activate the relays (one for the front mic and one for the rear), which would switch them off, deactivating the ANC.

The pot would just decrease the gain of the mic in an attempt to make the ANC work with the external sub. My understanding of how the ANC works is that the mic picks up low frequency noise of the engine and outputs a signal (presumably from the sub) that is 180 degrees out of phase and of equal amplitude to the offending noise to cancel it. My theory is that when you add an external sub, that cancellation signal is too loud so rather than cancel it it actually recreates the noise it is trying to cancel but just 180 degrees out of phase. The noise I could hear coming out of the sub sounded like the vibration of the engine in eco mode but much, much louder. My thought was if I could decrease the gain of the mic, I might be able to bring the cancellation signal back to the level it should be. As I think it through though, I'd probably have to use the factory sub as it position relative to the car affects the phase. Either that or a sub amp with variable phase would be required. The more I think about it, the more I think it would be like herding cats as you said before. I'm sure a lot of engineering went into the ANC system and merely dropping the gain of the mic won't fix it but the relay to switch them off would work. I would just have to run a wire to the front and rear ANC mics to power the relays and I have to find 2 relays small enough to fit in the headliner.

I did some searching and found a post in another group instructing that you have to take apart the front mic assembly and cut the red wire going from the mic to the PCB inside the mic housing. Let me know if that sounds about right when you get back and thanks for the help.

-Joe

Hi Joe, I am not sure how the "relay or the pot" idea would work. I know most people have problems with the ANC & Sub, but I think the the ANC goes through all the speakers.

I am away from the house untill Weds. when I get back I could look up what mic is for the BT and what one is the darn ANC. :29:
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
Who left the gate open and let all the cats out?

OOPS I just re-read your post on using the power ant. good idea (my ant. is the the read side widow) cell phone screens are too small for me to read a post!

I think your idea of the relay would be the best. The problem is there is no remote turn on wire coming out of the stock head-unit to power the relays. You might think about using a simple toggle switch to turn off the mics or better yet just do not use them (I do not notice a big difference with or without the ANC). You might want to disconnect the mics and see if the extra noise disturbs your serenity or causes you any of the fallowing; road-rage, reddening of the eyes, stomach craps, pregnancy or anal leakage. :p

<O:p</O:pI do not think the shop manual shows the wiring inside the mic, only how to trouble shoot it to see if it works or not, but it does show the wiring to and from the mics.
 
Same antenna here but that window antenna has a preamp, which I believe is powered from the HU. I know when I upgraded the HU in my 2004 Pilot, I was wondering for days why my new Alpine HU would only pick up 3 stations and then after some research, I learned that antenna is powered. Hooked it up and voila, I had reception! The antenna jack in the stock HU of my 2012 EXL has 2 cables. I'm hoping one is power but I'll poke around all the cables in the back of the HU with my meter to see if one only has power with the HU on. Right now, I have my subwoofer amp turn on line connected to the cigarette lighter jack so it powers on when the car is turned on but I'd rather have that power on with the audio system as well.

As far as the front mic goes, I'd rather not have to take it apart and just clip a wire. I just have no way of figuring it out rather than trial and error because I think you must be driving for the ANC to activate.

-Joe

Who left the gate open and let all the cats out?

OOPS I just re-read your post on using the power ant. good idea (my ant. is the the read side widow) cell phone screens are too small for me to read a post!

I think your idea of the relay would be the best. The problem is there is no remote turn on wire coming out of the stock head-unit to power the relays. You might think about using a simple toggle switch to turn off the mics or better yet just do not use them (I do not notice a big difference with or without the ANC). You might want to disconnect the mics and see if the extra noise disturbs your serenity or causes you any of the fallowing; road-rage, reddening of the eyes, stomach craps, pregnancy or anal leakage. :p

<o:p</oI do not think the shop manual shows the wiring inside the mic, only how to trouble shoot it to see if it works or not, but it does show the wiring to and from the mics.
 
Disabling ANC

I disabled the ANC mics and took photos and added directions on the process. I am going to start a new thread for anyone interested. The cable to the rear mic is a major pain in the ass to remove. If you don't ever want to reconnect it, save yourself an hour of aggravation and cut the wire!

Here's the new thread:

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/19-audio-electronics/32494-disable-anc-2012-2013-pilot-1-2-a.html

-Joe

Same antenna here but that window antenna has a preamp, which I believe is powered from the HU. I know when I upgraded the HU in my 2004 Pilot, I was wondering for days why my new Alpine HU would only pick up 3 stations and then after some research, I learned that antenna is powered. Hooked it up and voila, I had reception! The antenna jack in the stock HU of my 2012 EXL has 2 cables. I'm hoping one is power but I'll poke around all the cables in the back of the HU with my meter to see if one only has power with the HU on. Right now, I have my subwoofer amp turn on line connected to the cigarette lighter jack so it powers on when the car is turned on but I'd rather have that power on with the audio system as well.

As far as the front mic goes, I'd rather not have to take it apart and just clip a wire. I just have no way of figuring it out rather than trial and error because I think you must be driving for the ANC to activate.

-Joe
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I thought I would up-date my post with some pictures during the install. I also have re-do the cargo cover hiding the amp and sub.
 

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Cargo cover 2012 Pilot

My cargo cover wouldn't clear my sub and I didn't like the space between the seatback and the cover. What was Honda thinking with a 2" gap at the front of the cargo cover that you can see in???

At any rate, I cut 2 square holes in my rear pillars, which allowed me to move my cargo cover forward and up a few inches. This eliminated the gap and allowed the cover to clear my sub. The cargo cover is a crappy design in my opinion. The one in my 2004 was much better. The one in my wife's CR-V is also much better.

Joe

I thought I would up-date my post with some pictures during the install. I also have re-do the cargo cover hiding the amp and sub.
 

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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Hi Joe,
That cargo cover is a very light weight "honey-cone" that would rattle when the sub would hit hard. I tried velcro to hold it in place but it still ratted, so I made a new one out of MDF and rounded the outside edges & recessed were the metal grill mounts to it and no more rattles.

Were are your pictures.... I want to see yours
 

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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Mine looks stock other than the sub box in the back but I'll take some pictures this week. I thought you meant the pull over window shade cargo cover. You did a nice job!
Cool I look forward to seeing your pictures, I like to see what others have done.

The main reason for re-doing the hatch-cargo cover; is the rattles and when I cut the hole for the sub instead of being round it came out like an oval. :rolleyes:
 
I see. You used the time tested method of measure once, cut twice! ;-)

My project involves installing my ham radio gear as well so I am not done yet but I'll post what I have so far. Pulling wires in this vehicle is a pain because I get nervous every time I see an SRS imprint on a body panel. I think I caused myself a lot more grief just trying to avoid those. I installed a motorized antenna mount to fold the antenna down when I pull into a parking garage using a switch on the inside so I had to find a way to route those wires from the roof rack into the vehicle and then up to the front. How did you route the power cable to the amp? Did you run it down the driver's side under the door thresholds?

Joe

Cool I look forward to seeing your pictures, I like to see what others have done.

The main reason for re-doing the hatch-cargo cover; is the rattles and when I cut the hole for the sub instead of being round it came out like an oval. :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
The power wires are run down the passenger side and the speaker wires are down the drivers side.

I just wish I had a better camera during the install! A cell phone is a phone - sometimes but it's never a camera.
 

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Install photos

Here are some pics. Unfortunately, I didn't take pics of where the main amp is installed or the wiring to it. I installed a power block under the driver's seat. I have #4 from the battery through 100A breaker. Enters through existing grommet in firewall then runs down front pillar and driver's side threshold to power block under seat. I have the #4 going in and it has 4x #6 out. One goes to main amp, one to sub amp, one to Ham radio and I have a spare for future gadgetry. Sub speaker wire out of stock HU through center console to level converter and to sub amp. Stock sub left connected in case I need to remove sub box for Home Depot runs.

Joe
 

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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Looks like a good clean install and I do like having a knob to control the sub. How did you mount the Ham antenna? Did you have to drill any holes in the roof?
 
No holes. I removed the end cap from the left roof rail and slid the heads of 2 ¼-20 carriage bolts into the rail channel so the threaded end was sticking out of the center of the rail. Then I bolted a bracket that I modified to the inside of the rail using the carriage bolts and ¼" nuts, washers and lock washers. I used all stainless hardware. I had to cut the plastic molding that is by the liftgate hinge to pass the cables through then I ran the cables in through the slot where the power arm for the power liftgate comes out. I bought a spare plastic molding for when the day comes that I sell the vehicle. By then, it may not be available anymore and that will allow me to put it back the way it was when I remove the cables. See photo.

I'm still waiting for a connector to mount the antenna to the bracket. Once that arrives (maybe today?) I'll mount the antenna and take a video of the motorized mount. It's pretty cool.
 

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i just realized that since i have a 11 lx, my a/c display is up top where the radio display is, so placing a double din up there is out of the question, might just have to invest in a Rosen unit instead.
 
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