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2011 Honda Pilot EX
Purchased with 80,000 miles on it- Private Party

Ran great for the first 3,000 miles. Currently has 83,253 miles
Problem description;
When driving between 20 – 55 mph engine shuts off and looses electrical to instrument panel for a split second and then power / instrument lights come back on. Place it in Neutral, turn key back one click and then restarts.

Happened the first time while driving for approximately 1 hour. Going up a slight incline at 45mph.

After this drove it two different days for 2 hours each time and it was fine. Then it started doing it every time I drive. It happens sporadically.... 10, 20, 30 minute intervals between occurrences.

I live in a hilly area and with some rough roads. Puerto Rico


Regular Maintenance performed since I purchased and before the problem started.

9/18/19 New Battery. Previous battery was 3 years old and died after kids left interior lights on repeatedly.

10/12/19 New spark plugs ( Honda OEM )

10/12/19 Transmission 3.4 qt drain and fill ( Honda ATF-DW-1)

10/16/19 oil and filter change ( Amsoil 0w20) & Wix oil filter 57356xp

* 10/17/19 * first shut off occurrence, with the following codes.

CODES-

No transmission codes.

Engine codes;

P062F- Internal control module EEPROM error.

P060A- Internal Control Module monitoring processor performance.

P2610- ECM/PCM internal engine off timer performance.

U0029 – Vehicle communication Bus A performance.

U0155- Lost communication with instrument panel cluster (ipc) control module.

P2118- Throttle actuator control motor current range / performance



Flashing D on the Gear selection instrument panel blinks 5 times ( Transmission is smooth, no vibrations, no hard shifting)


NO green blinking key on instrument panel



Before taking to Mechanic I have tried the following things.
  • Cleaned battery terminals.
  • Checked wiring grounds to vehicle. ( 3 locations)
  • Checked battery voltage. (12.75 engine off.)
  • Tested all relays for resistance, function and draw with a multi meter, jumper wires and draw light. All relays tested good.
  • Checked all fuses. ( good)

Local Honda certified mechanic- ( not Honda dealership)


Determined that it needed a new PCM/ECM ( computer). He called a friend and Mechanic at Honda who also agreed that it was the computer. Honda said that those codes render the computer useless and cannot be rebuilt. So $900 for a new one.

The New computer was programmed for my Pilot and – SAME problem persists. Awesome mechanic says he will not charge me for the computer, since that is not the problem.

Currently he is looking for electrical / wiring problems.

Honda tells him, bring it to the Honda stealership and let them play with it.


Any Ideas, similar experiences?
 

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Last time I had an issue with the car dying and coming back on again intermittently was a bad ignition switch on my old prelude. Try turning on the car and wiggling the key while its in the switch, hopefully it turns off so it'll mean that's the issue. If not its going to be a hassle to diagnose. Its obvious you have an electrical issue. I would start from the battery and check all the wiring to the fuse boxes and to the computer. It could be anything really, bad connector, wiring, bad ground. Electrical issues can be a massive hassle to diagnose. One good thing is that it drives fine when its working, meaning you probably don't have any issues with computers, fuses, relays etc. , its most likely a connection issue somewhere.
 

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I was thinking the exact same thing. Bad ignition switch. Just as a caveat, if there is an aftermarket anti theft system, that and its bad connections could be the cause. Remove it.
 

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Last time I had an issue with the car dying and coming back on again intermittently was a bad ignition switch on my old prelude. Try turning on the car and wiggling the key while its in the switch, hopefully it turns off so it'll mean that's the issue. If not its going to be a hassle to diagnose. Its obvious you have an electrical issue. I would start from the battery and check all the wiring to the fuse boxes and to the computer. It could be anything really, bad connector, wiring, bad ground. Electrical issues can be a massive hassle to diagnose. One good thing is that it drives fine when its working, meaning you probably don't have any issues with computers, fuses, relays etc. , its most likely a connection issue somewhere.

I tried wiggling the key with it in the switch while its running. It keeps running. so it seems that is not the problem. Great suggestion.
It looks like i will start down the battery and electrical road.
Someone else mentioned that occasionally a battery post cracks inside the battery and can give issues like this. Maybe ill try a different battery first.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was thinking the exact same thing. Bad ignition switch. Just as a caveat, if there is an aftermarket anti theft system, that and its bad connections could be the cause. Remove it.
No aftermarket alarm or anti theft system.
Rely appreciate the reply
 

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Have you checked the volts when the vehicle is running at idle? I would not rule out the alternator that is on the way to totally failing. It should be at 14v or slightly higher.
 
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