[Antidio]

Hello all,

i have owned my 2011 Honda Pilot touring for a couple months now, loving and hating it at the same time. I’ve seen some post on here and totally agree with the same common headaches.

Well last night driving home from work, on the highway when accelerating,VTM-4, VSA, and check engine light all came on. Car started jerking and skipping. I pulled over and when I stopped the cars engine shut off. I wasn’t aware until I tried pressing the gas and nothing happened, but the car moving slightly backwards since I wasn’t applying the breaks. Car started up right away when I turned the key with all lights still on the dash. The next morning I took it to the local mechanic shop, he ran the OBD codes which showed:
P0100
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0305
P0306

Things that have been changed on car before this misfire happened was the MAF sensor and spark plugs (both from factory original) due to what I thought was a transmission problem because the car would jerk when trying to switch to next gear. Didn’t matter if it was second or 4rth gear. I’m also dealing with that ECO mode shutter switching on and off with slight vibrations.

Does anyone know what would be causing these misfires to happen? I’m thinking clogged cat but I’m no mechanic. And I’m still stuck on believing something is wrong with either the transmission or throttle body/differential.
Any advice will be highly appreciated because I’m hoping the car lasts me 5 more years.
Mileage on vehicle is currently 136,258. No warranty.

 

[Antidio]

Quick update to those following this forum.

1. Replaced MAF sensor again (from dealer)
2. Installed VCMtuner II (ECO mode is now disabled and no CEL has been turned on after driving the vehicle a few hundred miles) This item now is going for 129$ plus a 9$ standard shipping to MA. By installing this, the car runs a lot smoother. I feel as though it’s well worth it and pays for itself in the future by avoiding repairs if not installed (not loosing power by switching between cylinders, which also caused car to have slight vibrations and humming noise)
3. Got oil change at Valvoline (FULL SYNTHETIC no blend no high mileage, 5/20, since that’s what the ratio the vehicle calls for)
4. Got transmission fluid change/flush
5. Changed Rear differential fluid (Valvoline did the work but contacted local Honda dealer for specs)
6. Cold air intake filter inspected, looks clean and new with no holes.
7. “Cleaning” of fuel injectors with Lucas fuel system cleaner. (Lucas Bottle recommended 1 bottle of product. Tech at NAPA suggested going with 2 bottles at once). I went with 2 bottles.

Got all this done to the vehicle and then drove it for 50 miles. VCM being disabled, I found the vehicle to have consistent power. Getting fluids changed/flushed I the vehicle to be overall running smoother and shifting between gears more smoothly.
However… I’m still having this jerking of the vehicle, doesn’t matter what speed (25-90mph) when I let my foot off the gas pedal and press it again repeatedly, the vehicle jerks almost as if it’s trying to catch gears… at least that’s what I think it’s from. Not sure if this is a torque converter? U-joint? Power train? Or if my transmission is starting to go. I’ve had no stored codes on vehicle indicating that the transmission is failing. Only thing I had prior to replacing the MAF sensor again was a blinking/flashing CEL with multiple cylinder misfire.

Anyone reading this, any input on what this issue may be? Please feel free to reply to this form. I see almost 200 people have viewed this form but no one has responded yet. Any advice is much well appreciated. Thank you in advance.

other things I’m looking to get done is replacing the PCV valve (if indicated upon inspection of item) and although i just replaced spark plugs, I’m looking to replace again with the ngk laser, cleaning the EGR sensor, and cleaning the throttlebody. I will update this form as soon as I complete those.

 

[Nail Grease]

I'd check (replace if needed) the ground cable/strap between the transmission and chassis. Without it being properly grounded the shift solenoids will falter. Loosen clean bolted connections if needed. If this ground strap is found to be corroded, I'd also replace the one between the engine and chassis and possibly the negative battery cable to chassis.
Weak battery or a failing alternator can also make the transmission faulter.
Wal-Mart or auto parts stores have inexpensive ground cables. Check for appropriate size(s) if needed.

 

[slvrpilot]

Another item to check the current condition of the engine/motor mounts if they have not been replaced in the past.

The VCM system over time can cause a premature deterioration which could cause unusual vibrations and jerks.

Another reason why many disable the VCM system.

 

[slvrpilot]

4. Got transmission fluid change/flush

Getting fluids changed/flushed I the vehicle to be overall running smoother and shifting between gears more smoothly.

NEVER flush Pilot trans fluid.

Honda maintenance recommends drain an fills only. A flush could cause issues with the trans.

 

[Antidio]

I'd check (replace if needed) the ground cable/strap between the transmission and chassis. Without it being properly grounded the shift solenoids will falter. Loosen clean bolted connections if needed. If this ground strap is found to be corroded, I'd also replace the one between the engine and chassis and possibly the negative battery cable to chassis.
Weak battery or a failing alternator can also make the transmission faulter.
Wal-Mart or auto parts stores have inexpensive ground cables. Check for appropriate size(s) if needed.
View attachment 154370

I will definitely look into this just to make sure. Thank you!

 

[Antidio]

NEVER flush Pilot trans fluid.

Honda maintenance recommends drain an fills only. A flush could cause issues with the trans.

Thank you! I saw a Videos and other forms stating not to get a transmission flushed due to several reasons. But I was sort of in a hurry and I was already at the Valvoline shop so I had decided to go ahead and do the flash. I will post if I feel any slippage or any thing else unusual in transmission. I will have to learn how to do drains and buy equipment to be able to do this one myself next time

 

[Antidio]

Check engine light has come back on, along with VTM-4. I turned the vehicle off and then back on. VTM-4 light is off but CEL (Check emission system) remains on.
I don’t have codes yet for it, as this just occurred. But any idea of what this may be due to? Again, the list above was just completed yesterday from todays date.
Thank you for the responses and advice

 

[Antidio]

:UPDATE:

Brought vehicle to mechanic (same one). He ran OBDII code came up as P0171 Bank 1 Lean. He mentioned replacing O2 sensor(s) OR replacing the catalytic. He mentioned if we replace sensor(s) each will cost roughly in the 130$ price range from dealer. If the problem is the catalytic and NOT the sensor(s), then replacing the sensors will do no good because they will burn out again due to the clogged cat. Mechanic stated cat from Honda dealer is estimated around 300-500$ new. No warranty unless dealer does the job, that’s the price we pay for not having dealership do the job, no warranty.

A little Quick history rundown about my purchase of this 2011 Honda pilot touring. Purchased vehicle for $13K with 134K miles. Not from dealerships or only had a limited 30 day warranty or a certain amount of miles, which ever one came first. That being said warranty is gone. After warranty had expired car lit up like a Christmas tree. From the beginning as mentioned above I felt the eco-mode/BCM vibration, Andy shutter/jerk of the vehicle when pressing on the gas pedal on and off at any speeds. Eco-mode along with the vibration that it made during activation and the activation has been solved with the VCM tuner. Upon car lighting up like a Christmas tree on the dash, I had taken the vehicle for a multi inspection at the local Honda dealership to see if there were any codes indicating problems with the vehicle. Honda dealership pulled up stored codes P0171 and P0174, codes that have been stored for about a year now. Luckily the previous owner had a pretty good track record of maintenance at that same location of the dealership I went to. Technician at the dealership mentioned those two codes and spark plugs were recommended for a previous owner to replace but never did at the dealership, so it is unknown if the previous owner had fixed those issues on there own or at another mechanic shop.

So I’m leaning towards purchasing the new catalytic converter for bank one due to the amount of money I have spent on the vehicle purchasing it and already chasing problems. What do you guys and girls recommend I do. Is there a way to find out if the catalytic is a problem or is this more of a fix the less expensive part (sensors) I hope that’s the issue, or three months from now find out that it’s the catalytic and have to reinvest money into that. Also wondering if I will have to get a new transmission or if it’s going to be an easy fix such as the negative ground wire. Is there anything else I can do or have the local mechanic or the dealership do or inspect while they are down, either replacing the sensors or changing the catalytic which ever one I decide to do.

Thank you all for your help. I’m hoping to drive this family car for a very long time partially because I am not in a position to purchase another vehicle or take out loans, but that’s another story.

 

[Nail Grease]

Honda Code P0171
Possible Causes

• Intake air leaks
• Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
• Ignition misfiring
• Faulty fuel injectors
• Exhaust gas leaks
• Incorrect fuel pressure
• Lack of fuel
• Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF)

I would not replace the catalytic converter..., yet. I'd first make sure there are no intake air leaks. I buy my O2 sensors from RockAuto. Harbor Freight sells the socket for cheap. You can save a ton of cash by DIYing. The money you save, I'd take $100 and buy an S-VCM controller.

S-VCM Controller - Disable VCM / deactivate VCM and stop ECO in Honda Acura

Deactivate Honda VCM in 3.5L V6 SOHC engines. The S-VCM Controller is an automobile grade, high precision tool that can reliably disable VCM 100% of the time, and would safely bypass in case the engine overheats. It does not use a fixed resistor or manually adjusted potentiometer, and is a much...

www.svcmcontroller.com

 

[AVC]

Agree with Grease--leave the cats alone, for now.

You really need a mechanic that will do some better diagnostics, otherwise you'll spend $$$ loading the parts canon and may still have the issue. A hard failure like this should be fairly quick to chase to ground. Is the total fuel trim on Bank 1 massively positive (likely yes)? Did he read the freeze frame data for the code? Do the Bank 1 A/F and Bank 1 after-cat O2 sensor agree the bank is lean? Under what conditions is Bank 1 lean (idle, WOT, cruising). Do you have misfire counts on Bank 1? What are Bank 2 trims? Depending on where that directs him, then onto; vacuum leaks, compression, fuel delivery for the bank, etc.

 

[Antidio]

Agree with Grease--leave the cats alone, for now.

You really need a mechanic that will do some better diagnostics, otherwise you'll spend $$$ loading the parts canon and may still have the issue. A hard failure like this should be fairly quick to chase to ground. Is the total fuel trim on Bank 1 massively positive (likely yes)? Did he read the freeze frame data for the code? Do the Bank 1 A/F and Bank 1 after-cat O2 sensor agree the bank is lean? Under what conditions is Bank 1 lean (idle, WOT, cruising). Do you have misfire counts on Bank 1? What are Bank 2 trims? Depending on where that directs him, then onto; vacuum leaks, compression, fuel delivery for the bank, etc.

Hey thank you for your response!
Guy did very minimal. Plugged in basic OBD2 scanner and read me the misfire. Same thing autozone could’ve done.

Car was driving beautifully. I was going to go run an errand when all of a sudden I turn the car on, (car had already been running prior during the day so car was already warmed upand on came the CEL and vtm-4 light. Turned the engine off and back on and CEL stayed on while VTM-4 light turned off. Mechanic read me the code that was presenting and cleared the lights on the dashboard. Sounds like I will have to take it to a more advanced diagnostic mechanic shop who is up-to-date with technology and equipment.