Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I got 2011 Honda Pilot 4WD and been getting noticeable vibrations while accelerating after I replaced the front struts recently.
I suspect that the old struts were partially absorbing those vibrations before, due to them being so worn out and providing very little resistance to compression and little to no rebound.
I replaced side engine and transmission mounts before, but the front and rear mounts are probably original on this 200k+ miles Pilot.
In any case, I've put together a video showing how much the engine moves under some load while in "reverse" and "drive" while pressing the break pedal.
Would appreciate any and all feedback and your thoughts.


Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,446 Posts
At that milage and age, you would expect them to not be as firm as when they were new. If I felt vibration in the gas pedal, gear shifter or just holding on to the door, I'd replace them.
 

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At that milage and age, you would expect them to not be as firm as when they were new. If I felt vibration in the gas pedal, gear shifter or just holding on to the door, I'd replace them.
Thank you for your input! Yes, pretty much the whole front is shaking when accelerating. Yes, front and rear mount replacement is definitely in order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,446 Posts
Thank you for your input! Yes, pretty much the whole front is shaking when accelerating. Yes, front and rear mount replacement is definitely in order.
Have you checked to see if your down a cylinder? That can cause the vibration.
With the engine running, lift a coil off the spark plug one at a time. If you lift one and there is no change in how the engine is running, you have a dead cylinder caused by a bad coil, spark plug or fuel injector.
Check for oil in your spark plug tubes.
 

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you checked to see if your down a cylinder? That can cause the vibration.
With the engine running, lift a coil off the spark plug one at a time. If you lift one and there is no change in how the engine is running, you have a dead cylinder caused by a bad coil, spark plug or fuel injector.
Check for oil in your spark plug tubes.
I did recently replace all the spark plugs (less than 3k miles ago), because the Pilot had thrown CEL and "Check Emission System" lights and I used the code reader to verify I was getting misfire on cyl 1. But after changing spark plugs all has cleared.

It was definitely my fault for forgetting to change the spark plugs as part of a scheduled maintenance. Kinda easy to forget when Iridium plugs last you 100k mikes.

I'll definitely do the coil pull test to verify, like you suggested. Will probably pull all the plugs again to check for oil and carbon buildup.

I don't have the VCMuzzler, but I've read on the forum that it can help with oil seepage past the rings. That might be in order for my Pilot soon.
 

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Tried the coil pull test and it was making the engine run a lot worse.
Pulled all the plugs and the ones in cyllinders 1,2,3 (bank closest to the passenger compartment) was significantly darker than 4,5,6 and looked more burnt (see photos). Those were installed less than 10k miles ago.
20201009_180413.jpg 20201009_181127.jpg
I replaced those with older spark plugs I saved from before that still looked decent.
Took it for a test drive and subjectively the vibrations got a little less noticeable, but were still occurring.
I think there were some intermittent misfires with those spark plugs 1,2,3 and front and rear engine mounts do need replacing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,446 Posts
Tried the coil pull test and it was making the engine run a lot worse.
Pulled all the plugs and the ones in cyllinders 1,2,3 (bank closest to the passenger compartment) was significantly darker than 4,5,6 and looked more burnt (see photos). Those were installed less than 10k miles ago.
View attachment 140794 View attachment 140796
I replaced those with older spark plugs I saved from before that still looked decent.
Took it for a test drive and subjectively the vibrations got a little less noticeable, but were still occurring.
I think there were some intermittent misfires with those spark plugs 1,2,3 and front and rear engine mounts do need replacing.
VCM disabling will help with the dirty spark plugs, injectors, valves and catalytic converters.
If having a random misfire. I start simple.
Clean Air Filter
Clean (MAF) Mass Airflow sensor
Air tight intake tube
Spark plugs ✅
Coil test ✅
O2 Sensors working
New PCV
New EGR valve
Clean EGR passages
Use a Top Tier 87 octane fuel
At 200k miles, it's common to begin having issue with the Vtec(VVT) solenoid assemblies. If this has never been done, I'd plan to replace both sides with new gasket filter screens. It's a fairly simple job. It also prevents the oil leak that drips down past the oil dipstick into the alternator, destroying it.
Sorry for the long maintanance interjection. I tend to do that sometimes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ills

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
VCM disabling will help with the dirty spark plugs, injectors, valves and catalytic converters.
If having a random misfire. I start simple.
Clean Air Filter
Clean (MAF) Mass Airflow sensor
Air tight intake tube
Spark plugs ✅
Coil test ✅
O2 Sensors working
New PCV
New EGR valve
Clean EGR passages
Use a Top Tier 87 octane fuel
At 200k miles, it's common to begin having issue with the Vtec(VVT) solenoid assemblies. If this has never been done, I'd plan to replace both sides with new gasket filter screens. It's a fairly simple job. It also prevents the oil leak that drips down past the oil dipstick into the alternator, destroying it.
Sorry for the long maintanance interjection. I tend to do that sometimes.
Thank you for all the advice. All good stuff.
Luckily no issues with any oil leaks (knocks on wood).

Will definitely do the items you recommended.

Recently replaced the intake tube - old one had cracks in it and was MAF was throwing codes. Luckily local honda dealer had them in stock, but definitely a good idea to check all is tight there.

I guess I'll start with VCM disabling. Where do I look for that? I see some listings on ebay for VCMuzzler, not sure if that's the one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,446 Posts
Thank you for all the advice. All good stuff.
Luckily no issues with any oil leaks (knocks on wood).

Will definitely do the items you recommended.

Recently replaced the intake tube - old one had cracks in it and was MAF was throwing codes. Luckily local honda dealer had them in stock, but definitely a good idea to check all is tight there.

I guess I'll start with VCM disabling. Where do I look for that? I see some listings on ebay for VCMuzzler, not sure if that's the one.
I use S-VCM.
But I know Muzzler has a new improved.
When using these devices, be mindfull to inspect your cooling system. Coolant level normal. Ensure cooling fans are operational when AC activated or temp activated.
Also note that MAFs rarely go bad. These can be cleaned. I remove it and with CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short bursts directly into the electrodes. Let dry of condensation. Reinstall.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ills

·
Registered
2011 Pilot EX-L
Joined
·
144 Posts
OK, as someone who just rebuilt the whole effin front end and all of the engine mounts all because I had shitty (although brand new) tires, I say, take a step back and think before you end up where I did. Theoretically, you're supposed to be getting errors when engine mounts go bad. Realistically, as some Honda Tech told me, you will instead be getting misfires. Your engine mounts don't look too bad at all from the video. Replacing them is a beach, especially the rear one, you will need to take half of your car apart for that. I still need to go yell at my local Honda Tech for telling me my front engine mount has "collapsed and needs to be urgently replaced". I pulled it out and can't tell the difference between it and the new one I put in, sure, it's stiffer, but not drastically. As far as I'm concerned, these mounts should only be replaced if you have signs of leaks, torn rubber, if you hear the click/clunk when you do the test you did in your video, or if you have constant misfires even after having done what Nail Grease described above.

Other than the engine, other things that may cause you shaking, especially, at acceleration are CV shafts, check them to see that there's no play. If you have only done the struts, then check your control arms, the bushings may have worn out.
You can also have a bad U-joint on your prop shaft, but that would usually manifest at acceleration and deceleration (when you take the foot off the gas).
 

·
Registered
2011 Honda Pilot Touring
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, as someone who just rebuilt the whole effin front end and all of the engine mounts all because I had shitty (although brand new) tires, I say, take a step back and think before you end up where I did. Theoretically, you're supposed to be getting errors when engine mounts go bad. Realistically, as some Honda Tech told me, you will instead be getting misfires. Your engine mounts don't look too bad at all from the video. Replacing them is a beach, especially the rear one, you will need to take half of your car apart for that. I still need to go yell at my local Honda Tech for telling me my front engine mount has "collapsed and needs to be urgently replaced". I pulled it out and can't tell the difference between it and the new one I put in, sure, it's stiffer, but not drastically. As far as I'm concerned, these mounts should only be replaced if you have signs of leaks, torn rubber, if you hear the click/clunk when you do the test you did in your video, or if you have constant misfires even after having done what Nail Grease described above.

Other than the engine, other things that may cause you shaking, especially, at acceleration are CV shafts, check them to see that there's no play. If you have only done the struts, then check your control arms, the bushings may have worn out.
You can also have a bad U-joint on your prop shaft, but that would usually manifest at acceleration and deceleration (when you take the foot off the gas).
Thank you for your response.
Yes, my tires are also due. I have Michelin Defender LTX M/S, which were great and lasted me close to 90k miles. They are down to 2/32nds and I'm holding off buying a new set until the winter kicks in around here and hoping for some better deals for those around Thanksgiving / Black Friday sales. Tires are definitely on my list.

I did replace front lower control arms at 127k miles and last time I checked there is no visible damage to the bushings or abnormal play anywhere.

I replaced front CV axles at 135k miles, and upon latest inspection the boots still look good. I'll have to check for play, but in my experience even when new there is a little play present in CV axles.

The vibration only occurs on acceleration at around 20-30ish mph, if I ease off the gas, it goes away.

Yea, I got plenty of things to work on here, will update you on the progress as I go.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top