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Discussion Starter #1
We bought this new in Dec. 2009. After reading many views on this forum I thought I would give this a try. The slight vibration through the steering wheel, seat, and floor has been in the car since around 48k miles. The 4wd Pilot has been 100% serviced at the dealer and garaged kept. I have changed tires and did the Road Force balance at the dealer back then. We have been very patient since we love the SUV. Last fall we had the major service (110K) completed including new Honda touring rims/wheels and Michelin tires along with sway bar links. During the winter, which we were away a lot, I replaced all four rotors, brakes, and 4 new KYB rear shocks. Now that my 3rd warranty is almost up with 116k, the dealer agrees the vibration is still there, and are now back on task of trying to find and fix it. They claim the drive shaft is good. Within the last month, the dealer has replaced both front struts, which one was bad and both front axles. Any thoughts?
 

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Obviously, the vibration is caused by some rotating system which is out of balance. It sounds like you have replaced many of the possible causes already. I have two possible faults that you could check: worn wheel bearing, and VTM4 fluid change. My first guess would be the front-to-rear driveshaft, but the dealer says that it's good.

How about the VCM system and the noise cancelling audio and the active engine mounts? All stuff that I know nothing about.

Have you tried a VCM muzzler type system?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Obviously, the vibration is caused by some rotating system which is out of balance. It sounds like you have replaced many of the possible causes already. I have two possible faults that you could check: worn wheel bearing, and VTM4 fluid change. My first guess would be the front-to-rear driveshaft, but the dealer says that it's good.

How about the VCM system and the noise cancelling audio and the active engine mounts? All stuff that I know nothing about.

Have you tried a VCM muzzler type system?
Thank you. I will pass this one. Yes they took the driveshaft out and drove the car, still had entire vehicle (steering wheel, floor, shifter, and seat) vibration. Vibration is noticeable from 45mph and up, even at 75mph. They are now looking for a donor vehicle (2009-2010) that drives vibration free in order to swap parts to determine which part, then replace with a new part. My guess is that they will now move to the rear axles. We really love the car. It is super clean, not one door ding, I sure hope they find the issue.
 

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We have the same problem with our 2009. I have personally maintained it since new. It's been vibrating since about 125,000 miles. It currently has 205,000. I've done brakes, front lower control arms (and alignment), stabilizer links and bushings all around, one front bearing, new tires - these were all for other reasons such as wear or failure - but could have been causes of vibration and didn't really change anything. All the fluids such as VTM/trans/transfer case were always done. I also replaced the front axles and tried road force balancing specifically to try and cure the shimmy/vibration. The crate still runs great, my teenager daughter drives it daily and speeds everywhere in it. It keeps on going despite the v-v-v-v-v-ibration. It's going to dance its way to the junkyard someday and doesn't really owe me anything. I have no idea what's causing the vibration and have given up trying to solve it. I'll be doing the timing belt soon so it can shake itself to 300K.
 

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Dealer replaced both my front axels, was somewhat better, replaced the driveshaft and its nice and smooth now. 2011 Touring 100,000 miles
 

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What kind of replacement axles are being used? These are new OEM units?

I've had HORRENDOUS luck with remanufactured axles on FWD cars. If the inners and outers aren't new, they're garbage, and there aren't many places out there machining new parts. That said, I'd really hope the dealer is using new OEM parts and not remans.

There is also an intermediate shaft bolted to the back of the block with a carrier bearing. An unlikely item to fail, but it's part of the assembly too.

Dealer replaced both my front axels, was somewhat better, replaced the driveshaft and its nice and smooth now. 2011 Touring 100,000 miles
That's a really good thought. The driveshft has a CV joint instead of a typical universal joint. It will wear grooves into outboard joint over time just like an axel will.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What kind of replacement axles are being used? These are new OEM units?

I've had HORRENDOUS luck with remanufactured axles on FWD cars. If the inners and outers aren't new, they're garbage, and there aren't many places out there machining new parts. That said, I'd really hope the dealer is using new OEM parts and not remans.

There is also an intermediate shaft bolted to the back of the block with a carrier bearing. An unlikely item to fail, but it's part of the assembly too.



That's a really good thought. The driveshft has a CV joint instead of a typical universal joint. It will wear grooves into outboard joint over time just like an axel will.
What kind of replacement axles are being used? These are new OEM units?

I've had HORRENDOUS luck with remanufactured axles on FWD cars. If the inners and outers aren't new, they're garbage, and there aren't many places out there machining new parts. That said, I'd really hope the dealer is using new OEM parts and not remans.

There is also an intermediate shaft bolted to the back of the block with a carrier bearing. An unlikely item to fail, but it's part of the assembly too.



That's a really good thought. The driveshft has a CV joint instead of a typical universal joint. It will wear grooves into outboard joint over time just like an axel will.
Thank you. Here’s my update
What kind of replacement axles are being used? These are new OEM units?

I've had HORRENDOUS luck with remanufactured axles on FWD cars. If the inners and outers aren't new, they're garbage, and there aren't many places out there machining new parts. That said, I'd really hope the dealer is using new OEM parts and not remans.

There is also an intermediate shaft bolted to the back of the block with a carrier bearing. An unlikely item to fail, but it's part of the assembly too.



That's a really good thought. The driveshft has a CV joint instead of a typical universal joint. It will wear grooves into outboard joint over time just like an axel will.
Thank you. Here’s my update for the last two plus weeks the dealer has had the Pilot. The dealer has now done all 4 axles, and yes they have used OEM for both front and rear axles. No difference. The dealer then took wheels and tires from a 2012 Pilot (52,000 miles), they took in/on trade and put them on my Pilot. Test drove and seemed a little better. They then took off my new Michelin’s, with 6000 miles, and put on a new set of Yokahama’s (G056) and road forced balanced. After talking directly to the senior mechanic today the vibration is still in the steering wheel. I picked it up today, will drive and get it back to the dealer by the end of August for another round of what to replace.
 

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The driveshaft (not talking about the halfshafts) usually has weights tacked on the outside to balance it. Maybe one of the tacked on weights fell off? Easy to check by inspecting the driveshaft for where the weights (maybe) used to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The driveshaft (not talking about the halfshafts) usually has weights tacked on the outside to balance it. Maybe one of the tacked on weights fell off? Easy to check by inspecting the driveshaft for where the weights (maybe) used to be.
Ok, they did take the driveshaft out and drove, front wheel only, with no change. Vibration still there. They are sure that it is not the driveshaft.
 

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I have a 2010 pilot with 215k, it already had the back 3 cylinders piston rings replaced because of oil consumption and fouling plugs at about 185k. But it just started smoking terrible! Burning lots of oil. And put camera down sparkplug hole a d cylinders 4,5,and 6 look scored. Those are the front cylinder. I want to replace the motor, my question. Is can I put a motor from a 2014 or 2015 in? So that I do t have to deal with the oil consumption issue again.
 

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I have a 2010 pilot with 215k, it already had the back 3 cylinders piston rings replaced because of oil consumption and fouling plugs at about 185k. But it just started smoking terrible! Burning lots of oil. And put camera down sparkplug hole a d cylinders 4,5,and 6 look scored. Those are the front cylinder. I want to replace the motor, my question. Is can I put a motor from a 2014 or 2015 in? So that I do t have to deal with the oil consumption issue again.
J, this is what you call a thread hijack. Please start a new thread with your question, don't try to Bogart this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Obviously, the vibration is caused by some rotating system which is out of balance. It sounds like you have replaced many of the possible causes already. I have two possible faults that you could check: worn wheel bearing, and VTM4 fluid change. My first guess would be the front-to-rear driveshaft, but the dealer says that it's good.

How about the VCM system and the noise cancelling audio and the active engine mounts? All stuff that I know nothing about.

Have you tried a VCM muzzler type system?
Thank you for your reply below. Although we did have a misfire at 75k while travelling through PA, the Honda dealer only needed to replace the spark plugs. Our Pilot does not burn any oil. I showed the dealer your thoughts from above. They have also since my last post, replaced both rear axles, no change. They took wheels with good tires off a 2012 that was on their lot and I drove it with the senior mechanic. Felt 50% better. They then took the Michelin tires off the new Touring OEM wheels, both replaced 6000 miles ago, obviously spun up the wheels separately to check trueness, and put Yokahama’s (G056) on, that’s what they sell as a Honda dealer. 50% better, still a slight vibration. I had to pickup the Pilot, for now, and put miles on it for the odometer to change since a lot of parts are being changed under warranty. It will go back to the dealer the end of the month as they continue to research. The Honda dealer has not given up yet. Thank you again!
 
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