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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys new to this forum and was trying to find out how the best way to install a line out converter in my pilot would be. I have already run the power and remote wire to the back (was the simple part) and am going to use the seat bold for my ground wire however I am having trouble finding a spot to tap into the speaker wire for front speakers. I know I can pull out the stereo (always afraid I'm going to break the clips) but I don't really have a prying tool and dont know where to pull from. Is there anyway I can tap into wires right before the factory amp? Or anyway of finding the speaker wires before they run into the doors? Any help is appreciated.

Also the ANC is disabling it via diag menu sufficient or do I have to actually pull out the connector on the head unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry also was wondering if anyone had the wiring colors diagram for the pilot as well (need to know which colors are for which speaker).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On the 2012 disabling the ANC from the menu is not good enough. Here is a link on the ANC for the 2012 & 2013 (not sure if applies to the 2010)
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/19-audio-electronics/32494-disable-anc-2012-2013-pilot-1-2-a.html

Pulling the stock radio out of a 2012 is not that bad and no plastic parts were hurt during the operation.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/19-audio-electronics/32406-2012-exl-stereo-build.html

Where did you pull the remote turn on wire from?
Just finished the install today and was not bad. Did not have a dash removal tool so had to use my fingers to pry the clips off (thankfully I had neglected to cut my nails). Install went smooth for the line out converter as I was able to get my hands on the service manual which told me which wires went to which speakers. Ended up running off the front left and front right, left anc plug uninstalled, and did a quick connect test and everything worked. I ran the remote to the fuse box in the cabin under the steering wheel and used fuse 35 (acc) but realistically you can use any fuse that turns on with acc (wipers, radio, etc). Stock sub and amp still work which is a added bonus and the system now pounds. Still have to get the o ring for the ground as the one that came in the kit was too small for the bolt I'm using to ground (bolt for the third row seating). Also just have to install a switch somewhere so system can be turned off if the need be. Will finish that up tomorrow or the next day. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 

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Just a suggestion for others:

I'd really go with a 4 pin speaker lead if possible with your amp- it negates the need for a remote wire and you don't have to mess around with a line converter.

By the the way the sub wires are RED AND WHITE.

I could never find out definitively and even a honda tech (and a thread on this site) misled me and I had to repair a blue and gray wire (which was for a rear speaker).

Red and white, gang.

James
 

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Just a suggestion for others:

I'd really go with a 4 pin speaker lead if possible with your amp- it negates the need for a remote wire and you don't have to mess around with a line converter.

By the the way the sub wires are RED AND WHITE.

I could never find out definitively and even a honda tech (and a thread on this site) misled me and I had to repair a blue and gray wire (which was for a rear speaker).

Red and white, gang.

James
Hey Dow you know which one is the AMP TRIGGER wire.
 

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That post is over 7 years old.
To my knowledge, there is a bus communication interface between audio unit and amp on a touring, not a 12V amp trigger in the usual sense.

If you describe in more detail what year/trim level car you have, and what exactly you are tying to accomplish, you can get a more in-depth answer.
 
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