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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a 2010 Honda Pilot (Touring) that we got about 5 years ago. It has 150,000 km on it and has been a pretty reliable vehicle.

Earlier this week, my wife was driving and the engine shut off. She was only going 40km/h (our speed limit) and drifted over to the shoulder, and tried to start it. It starts normally, the engine hits the regular idle RMP, and then it shuts off. It doesn't sputter or stall - it just stops.

I went down to meet her, and played around - same thing. A few times, it has hit idle RPMs, they've dropped, and come back up, then drop again, and back to idle, then it shuts off.

The shop has tried with all three of our keys. They also replaced our battery (apparently the old one was at the end of it's life). The fuel pump produces fuel and they said the gas looked good.

The shop also said that many Honda's and Acura's have a key icon on the dash (top left) that flashes 5 times when you turn the vehicle off - ours doesn't do that, and I don't ever recall seeing the key symbol flash.

The shop is really busy so they haven't spent a bunch of time with it, but I was wondering if anyone has seen this behaviour and might know what it is? The shop thinks it might be the disabler in the vehicle but the OBRII reader didn't return much of value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks - I'll chat with the mechanic on Monday about it. It stalls really consistently, but it could be the ignition switch.

David
 

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Also check that battery positive and negative cables are tight on the battery terminals. Verify the other end of the battery cables are securely connected to their mounting points. Check for corrosion/oxidation. Check the cables which connect between the engine block and chassis.

Check the ignition switch as shown in the video above.

These are all things you can check before you take it into your mechanic on Monday.

And welcome to the forum.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks. Mechanic put in a new battery - nothing.

Here's what he found - if he disconnected the forward or rear bank solenoid on the cylinder , it will start and drive, though a bit rough at low speed.

Oil pressure switches for vtm-4 were replaced but did not solve the issue. Mechanic did not want to go further, as it would just be throwing money and parts at it. He thinks maybe solenoid or PCM, but wants me to take it to a Honda dealership.

But it doesn't sound ignition, or battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took it to the Honda dealership this morning. They confirmed what I knew, but the advisor said that there could be multiple serious issues including engine damage and/or PCM issues. He wanted to know how much time the shop should spend investigating (at $140 an hour). Anyone know an amazing Honda diagnostician in the Lower Mainland of British Columbia - Dr House, but with cars?

Grrr. The last year has been bad luck on top of bad luck.
 

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$140.00 hour is sad. What's more sad is the mechanics don't see anywhere near that, It all goes into overhead IMHO. I know most dealerships here on the east coast use foreign labor, maybe one mechanic has some certifications to cover their insurance liabilities, I got lucky and found one of these foreign mechanics that worked at many dealerships and is an amazing mechanic, he comes to your house or you can drop it off at his. I did not want to do by timing belt replacement, I bought the Aisin timing belt kit(top of the line) with water pump for around $188.00 gave it to him and he saved me at least 700.00 dollars and 100,000 miles later no issues. He also saved me over $900.00 dollars on a clutch replacement on another vehicle I had. Ask around there are some good mechanics out there then again there are some real losers. But it you can fine someone good and there not to busy it really helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We have a mechanic on island like that - he'll come to you - but this is one of those things that I need the dealership with their fancy scanning technology. Anyway, I've requested the dealership continue their investigation. I'll post an update once I get one.

Thanks for the responses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just talked to the shop at the end of the day - mass airflow sensor is what they think. They are overnighting one out from Calgary. Total cost @ the dealer will be about $950 CDN ($650 USD), and that's not including the work done locally or the tow.

Anyway, much better than a crashed engine. I bet my wife $100 when it happened that this would be related to an internal combustion engine, and would not have happened on an electric car. I guess I'll be collecting, though it's a zero-sum game.

David
 

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This is why whenever there is engine problems I start simple and work my way around. (MAF) Mass Airflow sensor is now 3rd on my list to clean or replace after air filter and intake hose inspection. I can replace a lot of sensors for $650 USD + .
 
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If this is the sensor they’re replacing it lists for ~$75 USD. Factor in the shop’s markup and express shipping and you’re looking in the $150USD range. Install takes all of five minutes. I hope they performed lots of other work on your vehicle since there is a large delta between $150 and $650.
 

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If this is the sensor they’re replacing it lists for ~$75 USD. Factor in the shop’s markup and express shipping and you’re looking in the $150USD range. Install takes all of five minutes. I hope they performed lots of other work on your vehicle since there is a large delta between $150 and $650.
Yep,
Not trying to make anyone feel dumb. But the MAF is right by the air filter, on top of the intake hose, and held in by 2 phillips screws with a wire harness clipped to it. Remove it, then with short burst, spray some CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner directly into the electrodes. Let dry thoroughly, then reinstall. Save yourself a huge mechanic bill.
MAFs rarely fail. The one on my 2012 Crosstour is 244k miles old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am happy to admit my ignorance w/regards to automotive stuff. I didn't even know about the MAF until the shop told me. I've since watched a few videos and read a bit - in hindsight, it would have been an easy check. There were no codes logged, which doesn't sound quite right but maybe the car stalled too quickly. Waiting on confirmation from the shop this morning.

It could just be dirty, or it could have failed (the car stalled pretty consistently within 2 seconds of starting). Anyway, I've learned and will know for next time. But the first mechanic (who I know and trust) didn't diagnose it, and either did a few automotively-inclined people that I talked to about it, and none of the replies I got mentioned it, so not that obvious I guess.

I see I can get a 2010 Pilot MAF on Amazon for $100 CDN.

David
 

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I am happy to admit my ignorance w/regards to automotive stuff. I didn't even know about the MAF until the shop told me. I've since watched a few videos and read a bit - in hindsight, it would have been an easy check. There were no codes logged, which doesn't sound quite right but maybe the car stalled too quickly. Waiting on confirmation from the shop this morning.

It could just be dirty, or it could have failed (the car stalled pretty consistently within 2 seconds of starting). Anyway, I've learned and will know for next time. But the first mechanic (who I know and trust) didn't diagnose it, and either did a few automotively-inclined people that I talked to about it, and none of the replies I got mentioned it, so not that obvious I guess.

I see I can get a 2010 Pilot MAF on Amazon for $100 CDN.

David
Your airfilter been replaced?
Check for cracks in the air intake hose/pipe (common to crack in the baffles).
Clean the MAF with CRC Electronic Cleaner. Sold at Wal-Mart for about $5 USD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The filters were done back in December. Unfort, we live on an island, an hour away from somewhere that would sell that, and our car is in the shop.
 
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