Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm nearing the point (within 13K) on my 2011 of its 200K service. I am planning on doing the following items myself and then taking it in for a valve adjustment once I finish my tasks.

TB kit - belt, pulleys, (tensioner replaced last week)
Water Pump and gasket
Upper/lower Radiator hoses
thermostat
plugs
coolant drain/refill
Front brake pads/rotors (rear pads replaced 8mo ago)
brake fluid flush
accessory drive belt
accessory drive belt tensioner with bolt.
Engine air filter

All fluid changes have been done per the MM. No leaks on any shocks, no wear in front end components that are visible either to eye or by movement. Wheel alignment is good. PS flush was done 16months ago, fluid still clear. Front CV boots are clean and dry. Honda replaced rings on Cyl 1-4 back around 162K and she has been running good. Battery was replaced 2yrs ago.

What other recommendations do you guys have for this service level? My goal is to get another 2yrs out of this Pilot and at my current run rate that would put me around 250K on the odo. She still gets 22-24 on the highway and I do not have any rattles and knock on wood, no rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,763 Posts
If the radiator is original you might consider that as well. And if the radiator and belts are out of the way motor mounts if they are showing signs of failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the recommendations. If it keeps going like it has been, 300K is not out of the question. I'm extremely pleased at how well the Pilot has aged. She runs quiet, no rattles, minimal internal wear (driver's door armrest being the worst area and the cargo area is scratched up from hauling stuff) and consistently gets above the rated MPG on the highway. As for the motor mounts and radiator, I'll check them for signs of leaks/ pending failure and evaluate what to do if needed at that point. A late addition to the list will be going through the rest of the suspension/body bushings looking for wear / failure and will replace those as required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
If they have to pull cams to do valve adjustment you may want to have the o-ring on the front side spool valve changed as well. Check to see if you have any current leakage just above the alternator area. Looks like valve cover leak, but could be spool valve. If they have to remove cams then it would be a good time to replace that o-ring. I don't think it is available from dealer - check local parts store. Also check cabin air filter and PCV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
171 Posts
Shocks / Struts / Bushings

I would do front sway bar bushings, because they're just rubber, they're cheap, and they're annoying when they get loose.


Shocks and struts will also make a significant difference in the ride quality, but some drivers don't care. Mine had 130k when I replaced them. I found the difference to be significant, but I went with the KYB set that others on this forum have described as stiff. To me, they feel normal.



Another thing that fails "quietly" are the door stoppers. If any of the doors won't stay open by themselves when the car is on an incline, the little plastic parts on the original stoppers are worn out. Pretty cheap parts online, but you have to take off the interior panels on each door to change them out.


For some flash, re-doing the interior light bulbs with LEDs was a big improvement for me.


Thanks for a good list of 200k maintenance items. I'll save that for when I get there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
More good tips. I did my sway bar bushings back when I did my struts and sway bar end links around 90K. I agree that as the suspension components age, we tend not to notice them since it is gradual. The bushings will be on the list when the struts come due for replacement again. No issues with the doors staying open and the gas assist struts on the lift gate were changed a year ago and are working fine. Nothing like smacking your head into that rear door when the struts leak down a bit.

I thought about the LED bulbs not only for interior but for my turn signals, brake lights and running lights as well. I have upgraded my low and high beams to LED and love them. I went with conventional bulbs when troubleshooting/fixing my map light last weekend and will probably keep the rest of the lights OEM.

No leaks from anywhere on the engine at this time. PCV was changed back in 2017 as preventative maintenance. Cabin air filter gets changed every March at the start of pollen season. Pulled it last weekend to check and it is very clean.

The only other item that comes to mind is my fuel filter/pump. No funny noises from the pump or reduced fuel flow but it has gone through a lot of fuel over these last 186K. I may add a fuel filter to the list as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
I didn't see the power steering belt on your list. It is most easily accessible when you do the timing belt. Might as well add it to the list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I didn't see the power steering belt on your list. It is most easily accessible when you do the timing belt. Might as well add it to the list.
Got it covered. Accessory drive belt (PS, Alternator, AC) and accessory belt tensioner. They have to come off to do the timing belt. The water pump is run by the timing belt.

I was going to replace the PS pump due to noise but due the overall cost of this service so far, I am going to put it off a few more months. I did a complete PS flush and replaced the filter/reservoir about 16mo ago which helped with the noise.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top