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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I took my Pilot to a new mechanic the other day for some road noise and subtle vibration when driving on the highway. The mechanic evaluated my vehicle and gave a laundry list of items that need to be repaired but the most pressing was the front right wheel bearing that was failing (he believed this is what was causing the issue). He replaced the bearing but the symptoms were still occurring. He charged me $523 to replace the bearing...

I am a little disappointed with this shop. The turnaround was very slow and the owner has been hard to get on task and still has not been able to give me quotes for a lot of the work I want done.

Here is the other work he recommended:

1) YOUR TIMING BELT IS UNDER A COVER. CONSIDERABLE DISASSEMBLY WOULD BE NEEDED TO INSPECT IT, YOUR SERVICE
RECORDS WITH US DO NOT REFLECT THAT WE HAVE REPLACED IT. YOUR MANUFACTURER STATES IT IS DUE FOR REPLACEMENT
EVERY 90 TO 105,0000 MILES. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR RECORDS TO ENSURE THE TIMING BELT IS NOT PAST DUE FOR
REPLACEMENT. WE CANNOT CHECK THE CONDITION OF THIS WITHOUT DISASSEMBLING THE TIMING COVERS. THIS IS OUTSIDE
THE SCOPE OF THIS INSPECTION PROCESS. (REPLACED AT 100K/4YRS)

2) SOMETIME IN THE PAST AN INCOMPATIBLE BRAND OF SPARK PLUGS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED. WE USE OEM NGK OR NIPPONDENSO
SPARK PLUGS, THEIR PLATING IS ENGINEERED TO BE COMPATIBLE WITH THE ALLOY OF YOUR JAPANESE CYLINDER HEAD, THIS
HELPS TO INSURE THEY WILL NOT GET STUCK IN THE CYLINDER HEAD FROM GALVANIC ACTION THE NEXT TIME THEY ARE DUE FOR
REPLACEMENT. INSTALLING ANY OTHER SPARK PLUGS IN YOUR JAPANESE CAR IS LIKELY TO CAUSE PROBLEMS WITH REMOVAL
CAUSING SERIOUSLY EXPENSIVE REPAIRS IF YOU PLUGS BREAK OFF WHEN REMOVED. (I replaced at 110k with Bosch Iridiums) not worried about it.

3) 8 PAST DUE FOR YOUR REAR SHOCKS

4) 7 RECOMMEND REPLACING YOUR FRONT RIGHT WHEEL BEARING (This was the work he did)

5) 7 RECOMMEND YOUR RIGHT AND LEFT FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING

6) 7 YOUR REAR SUSPENSION TRAILING ARMS ARE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT SOON. SEE INSPECTION NOTES ON THIS OR PREVIOUS
REPAIR INVOICES

8) 7 YOUR VEHICLE IS DUE FOR A BRAKING SYSTEM FLUID SYSTEM FLUSH. (I did this in the past 2 years, not worried)

9) 7 YOUR ACCESSORY, SERPENTINE, MULTI RIB BELT(S) ARE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT SOON (Replaced when timing belt was done 100k/4yrs)

10) 7 RECOMMEND REPLACING YOUR VEHICLE VALVE COVER GASKETS, V-TECH SPOOL VALVE GASKET AND O-RING, AND REAR CAM
PLUG O-RINGS (Needs to be done).

11) THE LEVEL OF YOUR VEHICLES ENGINES VALVES IS SIGNIFICANTLY MORE NOISY THAN USUAL. GIVEN THE
AGE AND MILEAGE OF YOUR VEHICLE THIS IS TYPICALLY NORMAL AND NORMALLY A SIMPLE VALVE
ADJUSTMENT WILL CORRECT THIS NOISE. IT IS RECOMMEND YOU CONSIDER HAVING YOUR VEHICLE'S
ENGINE'S VALVE CLEARANCE RE-ADJUSTING VERY SOON (Probably needs to be done).

12) OUR RECORDS SHOW NO HISTORY OF CABIN AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT. DISASSEMBLY FOR
INSPECTION LABOR COST WOULD BE WASTEFUL IF YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT DUE FOR REPLACEMENT, CABIN FILTERS ARE
TYPICALLY SERVICED EVERY 30,000 MILES OR 2 YEARS IN THIS REGION OF THE US, TIMELY REPLACEMENT REDUCES THE LOAD ON
YOUR BLOWER MOTORS AND IT'S CONTROLS AND ENCOURAGES LONGEVITY, IF YOU FEEL LIKE IT HAS BEEN MORE THAN 30,000
MILES OR 2 YEARS I ENCOURAGE YOU TO REPLACE IT, (Not worried, I do this myself).

Does anyone have any advice about the service recommendation? I am willing to spend some money on the vehicle because I want to try and get a few more years out of it. I am going to look around at other shops but as far as I am concerned the oil leaks (more of a seepage during long engine use) and the suspension are most pressing. Thanks.
 

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Here is a list of items I did to my 2004 Pilot with around 180K over the last year and a half. I have 220K on it now.
1. Front control arms with new bushings and ball joint
2. Front stabilizer links
3. Front struts and mounts
4.Rear stabilizer links
5. Rear Upper control arm link
6. Rear Lower control arm link
7. complete timing belt kit
8. new spark plugs
9. replaced a cracked catalytic converter
10. Valve cover gaskets and the orings on the cam plugs (I didn't do a valve adjustment because my gas mileage is good).
11. replaced the external transmission filter on the 2004.

My list is about like your list but I did all the work myself. I still have some creaks and groans, and a slight vibration at highway speeds which i am still trying to solve. I bought some rear subframe transmission mount bushings but have not installed them yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hats off to you for doing all of that work yourself... My problem is I don't really have the time, tools, or patience to do a lot of suspension work. I do not want to dump a large sum of money into a 12 year old vehicle either. I love the car and not having a payment but I am getting to a point where I probably need to just start saving for a newer vehicle.
 

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That is probably a good line of thinking. I just made a decision a long time ago in my 30's that I didn't want to pay for car service at all, and was going to drive old cars, and so I started accumulating the tools. The tools, time, and patience or funds to maintain is really the decision factor on an old car. I have more than one vehicle to fall back on while the works being performed.
 

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that’s not a ton of stuff and if you already had the timing belt done you’re good with that. They just recommended it because they have no record of it being done. I’m always pro keeping a car rather than dumping it at the first $1000+ repair bill. All the stuff listed is very typical of a car with that kind of mileage.
 

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My observations.... it sounds like your mechanic knows what he is talking about, his recommendations are pretty solid and he knows the Honda vehicles.

1. If you don't need a timing belt, you don't need it. He doesn't have a record, he knows most people have no clue, and so he is doing a valuable service in ensuring thats gets done because if it was not, you are on borrowed time and risking catastrophic engine damage.

2. He is right to recommend NGK or Denso plugs. Those are the best for this engine. If your Bosch are working out fine without throwing codes, good. But his recommendation is correct and shows he knows what he is talking about.

3. Rear shocks are a known weak point on pilots. The OEM shocks do not last very long, so if they appear old with no record or changing them, its a solid recommendation and not terribly expensive. Both sides can be swapped in one hour if there are no issues. KYB's are $32 each.

4. Completed. This is fairly big job for such a low cost bearing. It is what it is.

5. Control arm bushings degrade. I'd probably look at replacing the control arms as a unit, as that will include new bushings and a new ball joint, and reduce labor costs.

6. Trailing arms are like control arms. They have a rubber bushing that will crack/degrade over time. They aren't expensive, just the labor is what gets it. I think a lot of people ignore these.

8. Brake flush... if it has been two years you're not far from needing it again. Every 3.

9. If you have 67k on the drive belt, its likely due.

10/11. If your gaskets are leaking, he's spot on. You should consider a valve adjustment since the valve cover removal labor is already being done. This only adds minimal labor cost and should not be significant since gaskets are being replaced, which covers all the labor there.
 
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My problem is I don't really have the time, tools, or patience to do a lot of suspension work. I do not want to dump a large sum of money into a 12 year old vehicle either.
Then you run the high risk of finding yourself stranded at the side of the road.

Cars over 10 years need regular maintenance and I agree with others that the mechanic's list is probably a fair diagnosis.

Its either car loan payments or car repairs, time and money. Either way, there is a price to pay.
 

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Then you run the high risk of finding yourself stranded at the side of the road.

Cars over 10 years need regular maintenance and I agree with others that the mechanic's list is probably a fair diagnosis.

Its either car loan payments or car repairs, time and money. Either way, there is a price to pay.
It’s not always either-or. We always pay cash for cars and never buy brand new. I think the fact that everyone can get a car loan now is ruining cars when they get sold after the loan is up. People don’t maintain them because they think they can get rid of it as soon as they’re done paying it off. They don’t often realize that it costs money to maintain a car beyond oil changes. Nowadays people freak out when they have to put tires on their car!
 

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It’s not always either-or. We always pay cash for cars and never buy brand new.
Unless you're getting a big bonus, inheritance, gift or buying a very cheap car if you buy with cash you will have saved $ each month into a deposit account and then used that accumulated amount to fund that purchase.

So a better phrasing would be you either make payments (1) to repay a loan or fund a deposit account or (2) car repairs paying in time and/or money. Unless you have bought the last car you are ever going to own.

Here's a link to probable maintenance costs, a 13 yo Pilot owner can expect to pay around $1800 for the year.

 

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Unless you're getting a big bonus, inheritance, gift or buying a very cheap car if you buy with cash you will have saved $ each month into a deposit account and then used that accumulated amount to fund that purchase.

So a better phrasing would be you either make payments (1) to repay a loan or fund a deposit account or (2) car repairs paying in time and/or money. Unless you have bought the last car you are ever going to own.

Here's a link to probable maintenance costs, a 13 yo Pilot owner can expect to pay around $1800 for the year.

I agree.... that's how we do things. We pay cash for cars, but we also pay a car payment to ourselves. Every month a sum of money is auto-transferred into an account specifically earmarked for new vehicles. Whenever it is time to buy something, that's where we go. Either way, we still have a car payment. From there, whether we buy new or used is simply a factor of how much depreciation we can stomach, vs how much non-warranty maintenance we want to deal with.
 

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I'm not seeing anything outlandish. If you don't want to do the work yourself, or learn how to do the work yourself, then you will be paying a mechanics, simple as that. The majority of the work he has quoted isn't hard, and could be done with basic tools with a little bit of time. If you don't want to pay for maintenance, sell the car and buy a new one. Cars are a machine, they wear out, but if you aren't willing to do that wear out work, expect to be broken down time and time again, or learn how to do it through youtube. For example, I just changed the vtec spool valve gasket that was leaking on my pilot - $15 in parts, and about an hour of my time and it was done. It was a total of 3 bolts and releasing a few connections.

The car should have NGK Iridiums installed, not Bosch.

If you're at 167k, the timing belt is getting close to needing done. It's due every 100k or so, the sooner the better.

Valve cover gaskets can be done easily when the valves are adjusted, valves tighten over time and can cause issues further down the line. I don't believe them being noisy is a real sign all the time, but they do tighten. Tightening can cause other timing issues - you're past the 100k mark for valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For example, I just changed the vtec spool valve gasket that was leaking on my pilot - $15 in parts, and about an hour of my time and it was done. It was a total of 3 bolts and releasing a few connections.
I want to do that myself. For the 2008 2wd, I think I need two gaskets, can you point me in the right direction for parts?

I ended up going to another shop and they said the road noise was coming from uneven tire wear in the rear due to my bad shocks. They replaced the shocks and did an estimates on everything else ($350). Quoted $5k to do a suspension overhaul, replace the vtec solenoid (he said honda came out with a new model because the one on the 2008 was known to have issues leaking), timing belt service, power steering pump, valve adjustment, plugs, water pump, oil leaks, etc.

I don't mind doing work. I hurt my arm pretty badly a few weeks ago so I have been kinda nervous about having to break bolts, especially in suspension work. Thanks for the replies guys.
 

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I don't mind doing work. I hurt my arm pretty badly a few weeks ago so I have been kinda nervous about having to break bolts, especially in suspension work.
Have a look at the various lithium-ion battery-powered cordless impact (and ratchet) tools that are available now.
If you expect to be performing DIY tasks regularly, and considering your arm injury, they might be a worthwhile investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not seeing anything outlandish. If you don't want to do the work yourself, or learn how to do the work yourself, then you will be paying a mechanics, simple as that. The majority of the work he has quoted isn't hard, and could be done with basic tools with a little bit of time. If you don't want to pay for maintenance, sell the car and buy a new one. Cars are a machine, they wear out, but if you aren't willing to do that wear out work, expect to be broken down time and time again, or learn how to do it through youtube. For example, I just changed the vtec spool valve gasket that was leaking on my pilot - $15 in parts, and about an hour of my time and it was done. It was a total of 3 bolts and releasing a few connections.

The car should have NGK Iridiums installed, not Bosch.

If you're at 167k, the timing belt is getting close to needing done. It's due every 100k or so, the sooner the better.

Valve cover gaskets can be done easily when the valves are adjusted, valves tighten over time and can cause issues further down the line. I don't believe them being noisy is a real sign all the time, but they do tighten. Tightening can cause other timing issues - you're past the 100k mark for valve adjustment.
I found this gasket kit from Dorman on Rockauto: DORMAN 917268

Is there any other gaskets/parts that I need to complete this job on a 2008 FWD?
 

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this is all you need. Includes gaskets you won’t use. I only used 3 out of the kit. If you’re doing this job, you will be removing the vtec selenoid so just buy a new one and bolt it on. It’s 2 bolts.
Felpro
Crankshaft Front Seal Set
Part No. TCS 46026​
 

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Anything you put into the Pilot is yours Not the bank ..garbage in garbage out .. spend the money on good quality parts ..These Pilots will last a very long time ..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so I was interested in getting the oil leaks fixed and having the valves adjusted in the same service. The shop got an estimate back to me with the following:

PARTS
1x 15825-P8A-A01 - OEM JAPAN - SPOOL FILTER GASKET 18.09

1x 15826-RDV-J01 - OEM JAPAN - SPOOL VALVE FILTER ASSEMBLY - FWD 25.83

1x 17130RCAA02 - OEM JAPAN - VALVE ASSY., PCV 50.94

1x 15613PC6000 - OEM JAPAN - GASKET, OIL FILLER 9.29

1x 12050RGMA00 - OEM JAPAN - VALVE COVER GASKET SET 73.71

3x SOLV 2844-16558 Cleaning Solvent Aerosol Size: 4.38x3 - 13.14

Shop Supplies 25.00

PARTS Total - 216.00

LABOR

REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET AND ADJUST 395.14
VALVE CLEARANCE
(Combination) - SPARK PLUG TUBE SEAL - Remove 25.87
& Replace Both Banks,All Six
REPLACE VARIABLE VALVE TIMING OIL CONTROL 65.86
VALVE SOLENOID, VARIABLE VALVE TIMING OIL
PRESSURE SWITCH &
- Remove & Replace - V6 Both 316.34
REPLACE ENGINE OIL FILTER HOUSING TO BLOCK 105.84
GASKET
**WASTE DISPOSAL FEES 25.00

LABOR Total - 909.05

TOTAL - $1230.55




As far as parts go I know I do not need a $50 PCV valve because that is brand new and I also do not need a new $10 O-Ring for my Oil Cap.

The shop charges $117/hour, so at $909 we are looking at 7.76 hrs to replace some gaskets and do a valve adjustment. Seems a little excessive to me but I could be wrong.

This is not a dealer, it is a private shop that "specializes" in Japanese cars. Just want some opinions about this estimate before moving forward. Thanks in advance.
 

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Too high. Honda dealer only charges around $800 for this service at worst. Those parts prices are Honda OEM High Retail prices. Sheesh. Why would anyone pay that when they could go to a dealer? I thought the purpose of the import specialist shops was the promise of saving money over the dealer?
 

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I took my Pilot to a new mechanic the other day for some road noise and subtle vibration when driving on the highway. The mechanic evaluated my vehicle and gave a laundry list of items that need to be repaired but the most pressing was the front right wheel bearing that was failing (he believed this is what was causing the issue). He replaced the bearing but the symptoms were still occurring. He charged me $523 to replace the bearing...

I am a little disappointed with this shop. The turnaround was very slow and the owner has been hard to get on task and still has not been able to give me quotes for a lot of the work I want done.

Here is the other work he recommended:

1) YOUR TIMING BELT IS UNDER A COVER. CONSIDERABLE DISASSEMBLY WOULD BE NEEDED TO INSPECT IT, YOUR SERVICE
RECORDS WITH US DO NOT REFLECT THAT WE HAVE REPLACED IT. YOUR MANUFACTURER STATES IT IS DUE FOR REPLACEMENT
EVERY 90 TO 105,0000 MILES. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR RECORDS TO ENSURE THE TIMING BELT IS NOT PAST DUE FOR
REPLACEMENT. WE CANNOT CHECK THE CONDITION OF THIS WITHOUT DISASSEMBLING THE TIMING COVERS. THIS IS OUTSIDE
THE SCOPE OF THIS INSPECTION PROCESS. (REPLACED AT 100K/4YRS)

2) SOMETIME IN THE PAST AN INCOMPATIBLE BRAND OF SPARK PLUGS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED. WE USE OEM NGK OR NIPPONDENSO
SPARK PLUGS, THEIR PLATING IS ENGINEERED TO BE COMPATIBLE WITH THE ALLOY OF YOUR JAPANESE CYLINDER HEAD, THIS
HELPS TO INSURE THEY WILL NOT GET STUCK IN THE CYLINDER HEAD FROM GALVANIC ACTION THE NEXT TIME THEY ARE DUE FOR
REPLACEMENT. INSTALLING ANY OTHER SPARK PLUGS IN YOUR JAPANESE CAR IS LIKELY TO CAUSE PROBLEMS WITH REMOVAL
CAUSING SERIOUSLY EXPENSIVE REPAIRS IF YOU PLUGS BREAK OFF WHEN REMOVED. (I replaced at 110k with Bosch Iridiums) not worried about it.

3) 8 PAST DUE FOR YOUR REAR SHOCKS

4) 7 RECOMMEND REPLACING YOUR FRONT RIGHT WHEEL BEARING (This was the work he did)

5) 7 RECOMMEND YOUR RIGHT AND LEFT FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING

6) 7 YOUR REAR SUSPENSION TRAILING ARMS ARE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT SOON. SEE INSPECTION NOTES ON THIS OR PREVIOUS
REPAIR INVOICES

8) 7 YOUR VEHICLE IS DUE FOR A BRAKING SYSTEM FLUID SYSTEM FLUSH. (I did this in the past 2 years, not worried)

9) 7 YOUR ACCESSORY, SERPENTINE, MULTI RIB BELT(S) ARE DUE FOR REPLACEMENT SOON (Replaced when timing belt was done 100k/4yrs)

10) 7 RECOMMEND REPLACING YOUR VEHICLE VALVE COVER GASKETS, V-TECH SPOOL VALVE GASKET AND O-RING, AND REAR CAM
PLUG O-RINGS (Needs to be done).

11) THE LEVEL OF YOUR VEHICLES ENGINES VALVES IS SIGNIFICANTLY MORE NOISY THAN USUAL. GIVEN THE
AGE AND MILEAGE OF YOUR VEHICLE THIS IS TYPICALLY NORMAL AND NORMALLY A SIMPLE VALVE
ADJUSTMENT WILL CORRECT THIS NOISE. IT IS RECOMMEND YOU CONSIDER HAVING YOUR VEHICLE'S
ENGINE'S VALVE CLEARANCE RE-ADJUSTING VERY SOON (Probably needs to be done).

12) OUR RECORDS SHOW NO HISTORY OF CABIN AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT. DISASSEMBLY FOR
INSPECTION LABOR COST WOULD BE WASTEFUL IF YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT DUE FOR REPLACEMENT, CABIN FILTERS ARE
TYPICALLY SERVICED EVERY 30,000 MILES OR 2 YEARS IN THIS REGION OF THE US, TIMELY REPLACEMENT REDUCES THE LOAD ON
YOUR BLOWER MOTORS AND IT'S CONTROLS AND ENCOURAGES LONGEVITY, IF YOU FEEL LIKE IT HAS BEEN MORE THAN 30,000
MILES OR 2 YEARS I ENCOURAGE YOU TO REPLACE IT, (Not worried, I do this myself).

Does anyone have any advice about the service recommendation? I am willing to spend some money on the vehicle because I want to try and get a few more years out of it. I am going to look around at other shops but as far as I am concerned the oil leaks (more of a seepage during long engine use) and the suspension are most pressing. Thanks.
I'm just having a hard time swallowing a $523 bill for a bearing replacement. It's not that difficult a job. This bill may be proving your point to getting a new vehicle, but with the proper maintenance, this vehicle should buy you a couple of more years + of service which equals savings to you. If your handy with tools at all, and you have the desire, do what you can yourself. There is a YouTube video for most any repair. That $523 could buy a lot of tools. Our local Oreilly Auto Parts also loans out specialty tools (with deposit) for 48 hours so you don't have to buy them.
 
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