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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone! I just purchased a 2007 pilot in great condition with exception of the locks in all 5 doors not working. I have to physically lock and unlock each door. The keyfob is able to activate/deactivate the alarm but won’t unlock or lock any door. I took the door Panel off on 3 doors and took a reading with the My multimeter when when I press the door lock/unlock button I see the voltage is there, same with the actuators. Fuse # 12 ( power locks ) is good. One thing I discovered is that they keyfob is able to unlock the driver door only it won’t lock it, the remaining doors won’t respond at all. Does anyone has an idea on what could be the next part to troubleshoot? Thank you in advance!
 

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Welcome and thanks for registering at piloteers.org. We are glad you have chosen to be part of the community and we hope you enjoy your stay.

Sorry to hear you are having the door issue. Do you have two key fobs? If so have you tried both fobs? That is where I would start.

Please take a moment to look over the FAQ section. If you need assistance please use the “message” function to contact any staff member.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to register at the Honda Owners web site. It is full of information you may find useful about your particular Honda vehicle(s).

Enjoy and all the best,


Daltongang
 

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Right, try another key fob if you have one.

Did you say your multimeter shows voltage at all doors when you press the button on the fob? Could there be something wedged in those locks, preventing them from moving? I read a long time ago some taxi drivers wedge toothpicks in your lock if you park in their taxi zone. And certainly kids have been known to wedge all kinds of things where they don't belong, then deny it until they turn blue.

Do the locks move even just a little bit when you press on the fob button? If so, how about try a little graphite or silicone lubricant spray in there?

One next easy and no-cost thing you could try is to go through the fob reprogramming procedure:


Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand. Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming. Only need to use 1remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session. Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.​
1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed​
2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by "II" on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the "Lock" button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.​
3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by "I" on the ignition bezel - dash lights go off.​
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) -- each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.​
5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to "ON", press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.​
6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.​
7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will "pop".​
Here's a video that might also help.​

Keep trying, it eventually does work, if your fobs are good. In the end, what finally worked for me when using the method that goes from II to 0 didn't work: Going from II to I is what did it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome and thanks for registering at piloteers.org. We are glad you have chosen to be part of the community and we hope you enjoy your stay.

Sorry to hear you are having the door issue. Do you have two key fobs? If so have you tried both fobs? That is where I would start.

Please take a moment to look over the FAQ section. If you need assistance please use the “message” function to contact any staff member.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to register at the Honda Owners web site. It is full of information you may find useful about your particular Honda vehicle(s).

Enjoy and all the best,


Daltongang
Thank you very much for the help!
I only have one keyfob.
Best,
Alex.
 

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Thank you very much for the help!
I only have one keyfob.
Best,
Alex.
If that is the case I would suspect that it is a fob issue. I don't remember if you stated that you had put in a fresh battery or not, but if not I would try that first. If not you may need a new fob(s). I do not know the programming procedure for the first generation Pilots. Some one here should be able to lead you to those instructions if you choose to go with new fob(s). Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Right, try another key fob if you have one.

Did you say your multimeter shows voltage at all doors when you press the button on the fob? Could there be something wedged in those locks, preventing them from moving? I read a long time ago some taxi drivers wedge toothpicks in your lock if you park in their taxi zone. And certainly kids have been known to wedge all kinds of things where they don't belong, then deny it until they turn blue.

Do the locks move even just a little bit when you press on the fob button? If so, how about try a little graphite or silicone lubricant spray in there?

One next easy and no-cost thing you could try is to go through the fob reprogramming procedure:


Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand. Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming. Only need to use 1remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session. Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.​
1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed​
2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by "II" on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the "Lock" button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.​
3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by "I" on the ignition bezel - dash lights go off.​
4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) -- each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.​
5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to "ON", press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.​
6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.​
7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will "pop".​
Here's a video that might also help.​

Keep trying, it eventually does work, if your fobs are good. In the end, what finally worked for me when using the method that goes from II to 0 didn't work: Going from II to I is what did it for me.
Thank you very much for the help! I only have one keyfob and only the driver door responds to it but only for unlock it would not lock it. Yes there’s voltage at all doors when I manually press each door lock/unlock button. But when I press the keyfob I hear something clicking noises right under the glovebox. I will try to do what you suggested to see if it helps. Thanks again!

Best,
Alex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the reply! I did put a fresh battery I am able to activate and deactivate the alarm now, but when it comes to lock the doors doesn’t do anything. The driver doors unlocks with the keyfob but pretty much that’s all it does nothing else works right behind the fuse box I could hear clicks when trying engage the locks it looks like a module with multiple connectors. Thanks again I appreciate the help!

best,
Alex.
 

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When you press the lock/unlock switch at each door what happens? If that doesn’t cause either the one door you’re toggling the switch at or all doors to lock/unlock then the problem is not due to the key fob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi thanks for the help, nothing happens when I manually press each door lock / unlock switch. But with my multimeter I see voltage when I press the switches to lock or unlock I can hear noises like relays clicking from behind fuse box next to the glovebox. I feel that the keyfob is fine because I can activate/deactivate the alarm and the driver door unlocks also with the keyfob nothing else works. Thanks again!
 

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It sounds like the door switches are fine and that the door lock actuators have gone bad. You might try replacing the actuator on one of the doors, to verify it solves the problem on that door, before buying actuators for the other doors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It sounds like the door switches are fine and that the door lock actuators have gone bad. You might try replacing the actuator on one of the doors, to verify it solves the problem on that door, before buying actuators for the other doors.
Thanks for the reply! I ordered one actuator just to do a test I also ordered the control module that’s the part behind the fuse box where I can hear the relays. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi everyone! I just purchased a 2007 pilot in great condition with exception of the locks in all 5 doors not working. I have to physically lock and unlock each door. The keyfob is able to activate/deactivate the alarm but won’t unlock or lock any door. I took the door Panel off on 3 doors and took a reading with the My multimeter when when I press the door lock/unlock button I see the voltage is there, same with the actuators. Fuse # 12 ( power locks ) is good. One thing I discovered is that they keyfob is able to unlock the driver door only it won’t lock it, the remaining doors won’t respond at all. Does anyone has an idea on what could be the next part to troubleshoot? Thank you in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi everyone! I just purchased a 2007 pilot in great condition with exception of the locks in all 5 doors not working. I have to physically lock and unlock each door. The keyfob is able to activate/deactivate the alarm but won’t unlock or lock any door. I took the door Panel off on 3 doors and took a reading with the My multimeter when when I press the door lock/unlock button I see the voltage is there, same with the actuators. Fuse # 12 ( power locks ) is good. One thing I discovered is that they keyfob is able to unlock the driver door only it won’t lock it, the remaining doors won’t respond at all. Does anyone has an idea on what could be the next part to troubleshoot? Thank you in advance!
Hi everyone, first I want to thank everyone for the help. I have good news! I was able to solve the problem, I replaced the control module behind the fuse box located under the glovebox it’s like a small computer Like board it had few broken traces and an ic Looked cracked I’ll leave images of that part, now every lock works properly.

That’s one thing done now I have to replace the engine & transmission mounts. Can anyone recommend a decent aftermarket brand? The dealer wants 1k to sell me the one parts. Thanks in advance.

140394
140395
 

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Glad to see that you tracked down the problem.
 

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Good to hear that you got it fixed. It’s the first time I can recall someone on this forum has replaced that module.
 

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Good to hear that you got it fixed. It’s the first time I can recall someone on this forum has replaced that module.
Same here. That's a new one for me, too.

So how'd you figure it out, and where'd you get the replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Same here. That's a new one for me, too.

So how'd you figure it out, and where'd you get the replacement?
I checked each door actuator & lock/unlock buttons with my multi-meter. And voltage was present. But I couldn’t detect any pulse when trying to lock or unlock, only the driver door I was able to unlock with the keyfob but couldn’t lock it and nothing else worked. I saw that the wiring coming from the all the actuators are connected to the back of the fuse box next to the glovebox where fuse # 12 is (door locks) I also checked all the wires to make sure there’s was no short circuit. I could hear a relay click when attempting to lock/unlock. I ordered the part from eBay and that solved everything.
 

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Great job! All we need now is a link to the new one. And a closeup of the failed solder.
 
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