[mknmike]

This looks like the stuff. https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-R...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657839441467&psc=1

So put a bottle in with every oil change?


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[royalbiggster]

Check advanceautoparts.com and order online using code Jan2 for 15% off. Choose local pickup. Might be cheaper, and you can get it today if available.

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

atpautomotive.com

Full 8oz bottle will treat a 6qt capacity with maximum effectiveness. Adjust usage based on capacity.
I usually put about half in engine oil, 1/8 - 1/16 in power steering, and the rest in transmission. I don't go exact measurement. 8oz per 6qt is maximum effectiveness and you should see results with these ratios. You can add more if you feel you want to make it exact measurements. Capacity of engine oil is roughly 4.5 quarts. Power steering is roughly 1.2 quarts, and transmission is roughly 8-9 quarts. When you drain/refill I would add 1 bottle to last drain/refill, but just adding in you don't want to add too much extra liquid and overfill. Transmission seals are less likely to leak, but do leak, just less likely, so not as important as engine and power steering.
Interval I like to Add once per year with my engine oil. I chance engine oil every Sept. and March 2 times per year. Regardless of miles. I change transmission fluid once every year after initial 3 x Drain/refill once I get my vehicles new. Compared to the 3X drain/refill interval. I add half and half each year. Power steering I change every 3 years along with brake and VTM-4, but I don't use them in those systems. If I ever get a VTM-4 leak which hasn't happened I would put it in there before replacing any seals, but never had an issue, so I'm not going to worry about it. I still only do 1/8 bottle in power steering with fresh fluid through entire system. Coolant I drain/fill radiator every 3 years, and drain the block and all old coolant when I get new to me.
Basically when I get the vehicle new to me, I go through and replace the fluids all fresh so I know they are the correct type, and gives me an idea of the health of the vehicle.

 

[mknmike]

Check advanceautoparts.com and order online using code Jan2 for 15% off. Choose local pickup. Might be cheaper, and you can get it today if available.

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

ATP Automotive AT-205 Re-Seal

atpautomotive.com

Full 8oz bottle will treat a 6qt capacity with maximum effectiveness. Adjust usage based on capacity.
I usually put about half in engine oil, 1/8 - 1/16 in power steering, and the rest in transmission. I don't go exact measurement. 8oz per 6qt is maximum effectiveness and you should see results with these ratios. You can add more if you feel you want to make it exact measurements. Capacity of engine oil is roughly 4.5 quarts. Power steering is roughly 1.2 quarts, and transmission is roughly 8-9 quarts. When you drain/refill I would add 1 bottle to last drain/refill, but just adding in you don't want to add too much extra liquid and overfill. Transmission seals are less likely to leak, but do leak, just less likely, so not as important as engine and power steering.
Interval I like to Add once per year with my engine oil. I chance engine oil every Sept. and March 2 times per year. Regardless of miles. I change transmission fluid once every year after initial 3 x Drain/refill once I get my vehicles new. Compared to the 3X drain/refill interval. I add half and half each year. Power steering I change every 3 years along with brake and VTM-4, but I don't use them in those systems. If I ever get a VTM-4 leak which hasn't happened I would put it in there before replacing any seals, but never had an issue, so I'm not going to worry about it. I still only do 1/8 bottle in power steering with fresh fluid through entire system. Coolant I drain/fill radiator every 3 years, and drain the block and all old coolant when I get new to me.
Basically when I get the vehicle new to me, I go through and replace the fluids all fresh so I know they are the correct type, and gives me an idea of the health of the vehicle.

Clearly it’s your automotive Franks Red Hot.

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[royalbiggster]

The sad thing is it used to be $10 at advance auto just a couple years ago. There was a good year or so that it wasn't available on the shelves and had to be special ordered. When it came back it was $20 and now it is $25. I worry it will just keep going up in price, but at least it is available.

 

[plplplpl]

Then you're going to love this (relatively) bargain price...

More Information for ATP AT205

Here's how ATP's spokesTim says to use it, though I also use it to spray on all my undercarriage boots 'n' bushings at least once a year.

 

[mknmike]

Well I guess it’s time to try the snake oil.

The leak is back.


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[plplplpl]

Well I guess it’s time to try the snake oil.

Step right up, step right up.

Spoiler: Disclaimer

Don't tar and feather me if it doesn't work for you, sir, if you were too far gone to begin with.

 

[mknmike]

I’m pretty confident the leak is coming down from basically some area behind or around the crank pulley. It could be coming from somewhere up higher and dripping down to there, but it’s hard to see in there.

Oil change plus the snake oil is my next step. I guess I need to check where I am in the oil-change cycle. It feels like it was t too long ago, but my sense of time is warped by the pandemic, and I’ve given up on trying to get my sense of time back. Just enjoying every day and documenting my repairs on the internet. I don’t document oil changes. So I’m screwed. Thank goodness for the maintenance minder.

 

[ckeator]

I keep a page for each car in the Notes app on my iPhone. I simply add a date and the service to the running log for each vehicle. I also keep another note with supplies (oil, filters, etc) I have on hand.

For me it works better than writing it down then losing the paper or getting fluids on it. I can also quickly send a text to my wife or kids to remind them about mileage marks or 6month intervals.

 

[mknmike]

Well, it’s not leaking fast. That’s for sure. After all this time, the oil level is right in the center of the marks. So I’ve lost less than a half quart since this thread has started, maybe much much less. Drips in the driveway are the largest concern. I need to find the permanent “pee pad” for this pilot so it doesn’t make a mess everywhere. We do like to park it all over the place though. It’s time to be mindful of other peopke’s driveway too.

I need to find out where we are in the oil change cycle and try the at-205 and say a prayer to the snake oil gods.

Then schedule the timing belt service a little early. We are at only ~160k miles.

 

[RonnieJ]

Are you saying you are not seeing any leaks from the drivers side of the engine, after hosing it all down? It is all on the passenger side?

Yes, you are a bit shy on the mileage, but TB service is every 105K OR 7 years, whichever comes first, so not sure how long ago the TB was replaced.
If it is in need of the oil pump needing a reseal, then just get the Aisin kit and replace it all.
That will likely last the remaining life of the vehicle.
With the pump reseal, you'll replace the crank seal as well. It should keep things dry going forward.

Here is a link to my last post on it: 2008 with Oil Leak

 

[plplplpl]

Drips in the driveway are the largest concern. I need to find the permanent “pee pad” for this pilot so it doesn’t make a mess everywhere. We do like to park it all over the place though. It’s time to be mindful of other peopke’s driveway too.

I need to find out where we are in the oil change cycle and try the at-205 and say a prayer to the snake oil gods.

You, too, could become this guy.

 

[mknmike]

Are you saying you are not seeing any leaks from the drivers side of the engine, after hosing it all down? It is all on the passenger side?

Yes, you are a bit shy on the mileage, but TB service is every 105K OR 7 years, whichever comes first, so not sure how long ago the TB was replaced.
If it is in need of the oil pump needing a reseal, then just get the Aisin kit and replace it all.
That will likely last the remaining life of the vehicle.
With the pump reseal, you'll replace the crank seal as well. It should keep things dry going forward.

Here is a link to my last post on it: 2008 with Oil Leak

Thank you. I’m confident there are no leaks on the driver side, just the accessory crank pulley side. I’m not sure where it’s leaking, but my guess is very close to the crank pulley.

 

[royalbiggster]

Could be the oil filter housing, pan, or oil pump. I would wait to see if AT-205 fixes it, and if not, pull the wheel off, turn the car on, and look at the housing the oil filter is attached to, sometimes you can literally see it leaking. Will need to replace the gaskets if it doesn't seal.

 

[plplplpl]

Also, though I hope it's a longshot, some Kwickie oil place flunkies omit removing the sticky old oil filter gasket, thereby double gasketing the new oil filter, which of course causes it to leak. It's been known to happen, and heavens-to-Betsy, even to DIYers. 😱

 

[mknmike]

I’m confident the oil is not coming from anywhere near the oil filter. That’s dry. It’s coming out behind the crank pulley. It could be coming from something above it, but not the oil filter housing.

 

[RonnieJ]

If it is coming from the crank pulley area, it is almost a 100% guarantee that you'll have to reseal that oil pump.
There is a ZERO percent chance that AT-205, that is ALWAYS recommended by certain members, is going to help you here.
There are things that it can help with, but not here. Pisses me off every time I see them recommend it for EVERY kind of leak, I assume they are joking, but really gets under my skin.

You'll have to take off the oil filter housing anyways to take it all off, so you'd be replacing that gasket as well, so that whole side of the engine would be sealed up, as you'd be replacing the crank seal as well.
One other thing to look at before you tackle that job, unrelated to your leak, with the engine running, look at the crank pulley while rotating, and see if it wobbles at all, if so the rubber in the crank pulley may be deteriorating, and would need to be replaced. Didn't really notice that with mine until just north of 200k, as you don't want to wrestle with that crank pulley bolt more than once, unless you have the Lisle socket and a good impact wrench.

 

[royalbiggster]

If it is coming from the crank pulley area, it is almost a 100% guarantee that you'll have to reseal that oil pump.
There is a ZERO percent chance that AT-205, that is ALWAYS recommended by certain members, is going to help you here.
There are things that it can help with, but not here. Pisses me off every time I see them recommend it for EVERY kind of leak, I assume they are joking, but really gets under my skin.

You'll have to take off the oil filter housing anyways to take it all off, so you'd be replacing that gasket as well, so that whole side of the engine would be sealed up, as you'd be replacing the crank seal as well.
One other thing to look at before you tackle that job, unrelated to your leak, with the engine running, look at the crank pulley while rotating, and see if it wobbles at all, if so the rubber in the crank pulley may be deteriorating, and would need to be replaced. Didn't really notice that with mine until just north of 200k, as you don't want to wrestle with that crank pulley bolt more than once, unless you have the Lisle socket and a good impact wrench.

We recommend to try. We aren't saying it will fix it, but if it does it is better then paying the cost to dig in there. Regardless if it fixes it, the main kicker is that the remaining seals get rejuvenated and may prevent a leak from forming in the future. I hope that clears things up. We have old vehicles, and throwing money at it doesn't always make sense. Some people have basics skills and getting to an oil pump for some is near impossible due to the Crank bolt. Especially if you just got done dumping money into a TB already. Doesn't make sense to spend all that time or money replacing something that could be remedied so easy. I back up my decision to recommend ATP AT-205 to anyone in this situation. If it doesn't work, then they know they need to tear into it. Otherwise why waste all that energy and time? What would be the point?

 

[mknmike]

I finally ordered 8 Oz of the at-205 and see that the oil life is currently 20%.

I will probably ask at the parts store what oil is recommended, but I’m wondering if anyone has any opinions on what might be best for the motor and to hopefully stop the leak?

Is a thicker oil than the 5w20 recommended? The car does get cold started on days below freezing often in the winter. However, I’m not in canada or way up north. So cold starts below 20 F are pretty rare, maybe 2-10/year.

 

[royalbiggster]

Mobil 1 high mileage advanced full synthetic 5w-20.
A step up would be Mobil 1 Ultimate synthetic 5w-20, but you're not going to find it on the shelves.
Honda actually sells Ultimate synthetic 5w-20, but you're going to pay a premium for it.