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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just thought I'd show a pict of my plugs, changed out today after 121K miles since new. Remarkably good shape for this mileage with gaps almost at new spec (1.0-1.1 mm). Worst was #5 (front middle cylinder) which wasn't very tight and was getting some blow-by. As others have observed, I think the issue with using plugs for this length of time has to do more with how the repeated heating/cooling cycles causes a gradual loss of proper torque and sealing rather than actual spark plug electrode wear.



I went with the exact same plugs (NGK IZFR5K11), lightly used some Champion sparkplug anti-sieze (left over from lots of aircraft plug changes - every 50-hrs!), and torqued to spec (13 ft-lb) with a torque wrench. I noticed that during the process of changing the plugs across a bank, that the first plug lost some torque while I was doing the other two. It's probably a good idea re-torque them after a few heating/cooling cycles, but I'm not that anal.

It's a pretty easy job. Access to back bank wasn't as bad as thought it would be. You do need a bunch of different-length ratchet extensions to work your way around various bits in the way, but it's all fairly straightforward.

Car runs fine and is maybe a tad smoother, but might just be the power of suggestion.

- Mark
 

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Just thought I'd show a pict of my plugs, changed out today after 121K miles since new. Remarkably good shape for this mileage with gaps almost at new spec (1.0-1.1 mm). Worst was #5 (front middle cylinder) which wasn't very tight and was getting some blow-by. As others have observed, I think the issue with using plugs for this length of time has to do more with how the repeated heating/cooling cycles causes a gradual loss of proper torque and sealing rather than actual spark plug electrode wear.



I went with the exact same plugs (NGK IZFR5K11), lightly used some Champion sparkplug anti-sieze (left over from lots of aircraft plug changes - every 50-hrs!), and torqued to spec (13 ft-lb) with a torque wrench. I noticed that during the process of changing the plugs across a bank, that the first plug lost some torque while I was doing the other two. It's probably a good idea re-torque them after a few heating/cooling cycles, but I'm not that anal.

It's a pretty easy job. Access to back bank wasn't as bad as thought it would be. You do need a bunch of different-length ratchet extensions to work your way around various bits in the way, but it's all fairly straightforward.

Car runs fine and is maybe a tad smoother, but might just be the power of suggestion.

- Mark
Every place i looked its still listing at Gap 0.044 in Original Equipment Is Iridium Replacement item is this the current spec ? Thought they changed it or something
 

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I checked my Haynes manual and gap is between 39 and 43 thousandths (1.0 to 1.1 mm).

By any chance does anyone know the torque spec for the coil pack bolt? I didn’t see it listed in the Haynes manual and I’ll be changing the plugs out on my wife’s Pilot this weekend.
 

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I checked my Haynes manual and gap is between 39 and 43 thousandths (1.0 to 1.1 mm).

By any chance does anyone know the torque spec for the coil pack bolt? I didn’t see it listed in the Haynes manual and I’ll be changing the plugs out on my wife’s Pilot this weekend.
here you go
 

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Thanks Tahoefever!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Every place i looked its still listing at Gap 0.044 in Original Equipment Is Iridium Replacement item is this the current spec ? Thought they changed it or something
I'm not aware of any change in spec. The plugs I used were bought three or four years ago and all measured in the 1.0-1.1 mm range. The service manual says that gaps of iridium tip plugs are not adjustable - if out of spec, replacement is the only option.

- Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By any chance does anyone know the torque spec for the coil pack bolt? I didn’t see it listed in the Haynes manual and I’ll be changing the plugs out on my wife’s Pilot this weekend.
My 2006 service manual says 8.7 ft-lb for the same illustration, have no idea why slightly different.

- Mark
 

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Thanks Mark. I guess I’ll use the average of the two specs.
 

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My 2006 service manual says 8.7 ft-lb for the same illustration, have no idea why slightly different.

- Mark
I found these specs on the Gen 2 Service manual .. listed in the Bishko 2009-2012 Gen 2 series . You may want to check the cover on the CD to make sure your using the same Service manual.

Since I own both copies (paid) I compared the two :)

Road2cycle I would take caution since that is a full 1Lb difference in torque you can actually snap those buggers if they are cranked down to much
 

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The spark plug change went smoothly on my wife’s 2005 this morning. It took me about an hour and a half including prep and cleanup, as I was in no hurry to get the job done.

I used two 3” extensions, feeding them into the spark plug hole one at a time, since there wasn’t enough room for the 6” extension and plug socket to fit at the same time. I didn’t end up using universal joints. Rears felt more difficult to break loose compared to the fronts for whatever reason. The old plugs looked like they had life on them at 105.5k miles and all six looked like they wore the same.

Thanks guys for the torque specs. I ended up setting the torque wrench to ~7.5 ft-lb for the coil pack bolts heeding Tahoefever’s advice.

I can’t believe my local dealer wanted $375 US for this job.
 
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