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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 06 Pilot that really has me stumped. I purchased this vehicle broken and trying to repair for a family member that needs a vehicle. I have a wrecked 06 that I am using as a parts car that was running but smoking when wrecked. There are no codes set and the vehicle will start for half a second but immediately dies but not consistently. Most of the time it is endless cranking with almost catching sounds. Here is a list of things I have tried and verified so far.

Previous owner replaced the fuel pump/pressure regulator in the tank and pressure at pump and injector rails was 55 psi. I swapped the pump from donor just to be sure and it is also 55 psi
Sprayed ether in throttle body while cranking with no change.
Checked for air flow through the throttle body with a gloved hand and air is being sucked into the engine.
Replaced timing belt and looked like the first time it had been done but was already in time. Also swapped the water pump while I was at it and inside of pump housing was very clean, no corrosion or oil residue
Swapped the Cam and Crank sensors from donor vehicle to test. They were the same part numbers and since I am not seeing trouble codes I changed them to rule them out
I checked the immobilizer and key to make sure it was working and all appears to be in order.
I swapped the Main Relay1 and 2 from advice I saw on another forum
I checked spark on front cylinders and spark seems strong
I checked the compression on front cylinders and they are consistently 185+ will be checking the rest today.
I swapped the ECU/PGM, key and immobilizer from the donor vehicle too just to rule them out and same result.
I saw on another forum that an Accord V6 had similar issues and was a stuck VTC solenoid. I will be checking that this morning too.

Any ideas I have not considered?
 

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If it will not start on ether I would guess it is ignition or a mechanical problem. Before I bought more parts I would do a compression check just to rule out a mechanical problem.
 

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Just to rule it out, are you sure you have a key with the properly paired/programmed immobilizer chip?

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses everyone and I am sure that the immobilizer and key pair are correct based on everything I have researched. The green key light comes on when first activating key and flashes one time and goes away. It also flashes 5 times when returning the key to the off position.

I have been working on it today and completed the compression test with all cylinders consistently greater than 150 psi. My timing marks have been rechecked and, if the vehicle is left to sit for several hours, will start and run for a couple of seconds the very first time it is started for the day.

I took the irridium plugs from the wrecked 06 that I have and swapped the known good coil packs from the donor vehicle as well. No change. Acts like it is starving for fuel so I put a pressure tester inline and attempted to crank. 50 to 60 psi the whole time and only dropped to 45 PSI after 5 minutes with the pump off.

This engine is equipped with VCM so I will begin diagnosing it when I can.
 

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I have no advice to offer on this but want to wish you the best of luck getting this resolved. You’re definitely taking the step by step approach to getting this figured out. Keep us posted.
 

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(Fuel pump failing? Can you hear it running when the key is turned to 'on' ? Yes? Does it sound strong or is it struggling? Check fuel pressure with key in 'on' position, and again while cranking.. Check results against specs. Low fuel pressure won't set a code in many vehicles unless it has a pressure sensor that signals the computer. I doubt if an 06 has that.) EDIT- Sorry, I missed the post and now see that you have tested the fuel pressure. I'll leave this post up, it might help another owner in the future. It could also be a plugged in-tank fuel filter/screen. It will still have fuel pressure but has reduced the fuel flow enough it won't run but you've checked that too.
 

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Here's another tip based on past experience. If my daughter's newer Mazda is started cold and shut down right away it will not restart, just crank over and sound like it's trying to catch. So I suspect it flooded. If I crank it while holding the gas pedal to the floor (clear flood mode, no fuel is injected), it'll clear out and fire up after about half a minute. Did you try holding the gas pedal to the floor (wide open throttle) while cranking? It was a common method with pre-EFI carburated vehicles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have no advice to offer on this but want to wish you the best of luck getting this resolved. You’re definitely taking the step by step approach to getting this figured out. Keep us posted.
Thank you Road2Cycle but may have to take it to someone with better testing equipment than I have. I will write back when I have more info.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's another tip based on past experience. If my daughter's newer Mazda is started cold and shut down right away it will not restart, just crank over and sound like it's trying to catch. So I suspect it flooded. If I crank it while holding the gas pedal to the floor (clear flood mode, no fuel is injected), it'll clear out and fire up after about half a minute. Did you try holding the gas pedal to the floor (wide open throttle) while cranking? It was a common method with pre-EFI carburated vehicles.
Thank you 2_Stroke and I have tested fuel pressure at the pump and injector rails. I saw another thread where a user said he was able to get his started by holding the pedal fully depressed but I have been unable to get mine to start like this. I can see that the throttle body plate fully opens so I feel like the throttle body is responding to the remote pedal control. Even tried the ether at full throttle and has no effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
By chance, does it have an aftermarket alarm system installed?
I did consider that it might have but I cannot find one installed. I am taking it to a local shop in my area tomorrow for them to hook up an HSD device to see if it can read more info than my Ebay OBD II reader can see. $100 diagnostic fee but at least I can get a second pair of eyes on the problem because I am stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Figured it out! Local shop did a great job of diagnosing the issue and, it turned out to be the Catalytic convertors had come apart and clogged the final Cat, completely plugging the exhaust. I have not picked the vehicle up yet to actually do the replacement but since I have a donor vehicle to get them from, saved my about $500 in parts. Replacing the down cat on the rear cylinders will be a challenge but time and tools is what I do have an abundance of. Thanks everyone for the ideas and encouragement.
 
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