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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Short summary:
Bought 2006 EXL 2WD on ebay. I didn't want to buy an older Pilot locally because I live in the salt/rust belt.
Long story short, the Pilot came showing numerous signs of neglected maintenance, dog urine odor and bleach stains inside, as well as significant body and paint damage that wasn't shown in the photos (photos of body damage here 2006 EXL diaries / extensive maintenance write-ups)
The seller refused to take the Pilot back, saying the condition is within norm for an older vehicle. With shipping cost and registration/title fees I overpaid so much for this Pilot that I decided to just keep it and drive it as long as possible.

I will keep posting in this thread documenting the repairs/maintenance


Items addressed so far:
  • power steering fluid flush + new power steering pump
  • timing belt service + new passenger side engine mount
  • engine oil/filter currently running : Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 + Bosch 3323
  • replaced VVT inner and outer seals, p/n Dorman 917-268
  • replaced both cam thrust o rings, OEM p/n 91301-P8A-A00 X2
  • replaced tie rod ends p/n Mevotech MES3716 & MES3717
  • replaced front sway bar links Mevotech GS60834 X2
  • pressed in new front lower control arm bushings MOOG K201570 X2
  • drain/fill transmission with Idemitsu Type H Plus / so far 2 times
  • replaced pcv valve 17130-RCA-A02, air filter Denso 143-3132
  • replaced passenger side CV axle Cardone 66-4199, new OEM axle nut 90305-S3V-A11
  • replaced old noisy drive belt tensioner with new generic aftermarket unit - works perfectly with no noises
  • replaced worn off steering wheel radio remote control with new oem unit, p/n 35880-S9V-A11ZD
  • replaced spark plugs with oem NGK IZFR5K11
  • replaced the whole interior carpet with ACC 17598160 carpet, color code 807 dark gray
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
1. The power steering saga

Symptoms : fluid leak at the pump, very jerky steering wheel, loud pump noise at all times

  • used a vacuum fluid extractor to pull old fluid out through the return line
  • added Honda power steering fluid
  • disconnected the return line again, turned steering wheel lock to lock - pulled fluid out again
  • lubricated and installed new pressure and return line O rings (generic O rings from Amazon)
  • added Honda power steering fluid
Doing the above was a major improvement, however the pump was still leaking

After doing some research, I ended up buying a new generic pump on ebay (the model that sold over 200 units and there is no negative feedback on this pump)

  • transferred the oem pump pulley onto the new power steering pump
  • pulled fluid out again from the system
  • filled with fresh Honda power steering fluid
  • again installed brand new O rings on the pressure and return line (once again generic O rings, since they seem to work just fine)
There are no leaks and the steering is fixed.
 

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Sounds interesting.

1. How do you know the "wrong fluid" was in the power steering system?
2. It is normal for our transmissions to have very dark fluid. Even if the fluid was changed regularly every 30k miles, the fluid will stay black looking. So I would not fret too much. MOST people do not keep up with this. Just do the drain/fill 4 times with fresh DW-1 or Maxlife.
3. 2006 FWD comes with VCM, you should plan on disabling that and replace spark plugs.
4. Oil leaks on a 14 year old vehicle are VERY common. VTEC/spool valve, valve cover gasket are normal. Rear main seal will have some seepage which is typical for age, and oil pan sometimes can have seepage. I'd expect this to be the norm.

How about some pics?
 

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After doing some research, I ended up buying a new generic pump on ebay (the model that sold over 200 units and there is no negative feedback on this pump)
There are no leaks and the steering is fixed.
Interesting! Every eBay/Amazon generic PS pump I have ever tried was noisy or completely failed out of the box. I recently did a CR-V, gave up, and found a used OEM on eBay from a dismantler to fix it. Yours is quiet? Post a link to the pump as it might help others willing to roll the dice.
 

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how many miles on the Pilot? Make sure you get on top of the timing belt servicing - including water pump, tensioner, etc. From the description, doesn't sound like the seller cared about maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds interesting.

1. How do you know the "wrong fluid" was in the power steering system?
2. It is normal for our transmissions to have very dark fluid. Even if the fluid was changed regularly every 30k miles, the fluid will stay black looking. So I would not fret too much. MOST people do not keep up with this. Just do the drain/fill 4 times with fresh DW-1 or Maxlife.
3. 2006 FWD comes with VCM, you should plan on disabling that and replace spark plugs.
4. Oil leaks on a 14 year old vehicle are VERY common. VTEC/spool valve, valve cover gasket are normal. Rear main seal will have some seepage which is typical for age, and oil pan sometimes can have seepage. I'd expect this to be the norm.

How about some pics?
I've driven a Civic where somebody added non-Honda power steering fluid to the system. The loud whine and jerking steering wheel was very similar to what my Pilot was doing.

The transmission seems to be shifting pretty smooth so I am going to just do the drain/fill like you suggested. So far I did 1 drain/fill using the Idemitsu Type H Plus fluid. I was told it's the same as the OEM fluid?

Yes, I just ordered a set of new NGK IZFR5K11 plugs, and I am about to get the "verbatim" VCMuzzler II

I guess one could say oil leaks are normal, especially on the Pilot / J35 engine. But I was just bummed out because of the overall condition of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting! Every eBay/Amazon generic PS pump I have ever tried was noisy or completely failed out of the box. I recently did a CR-V, gave up, and found a used OEM on eBay from a dismantler to fix it. Yours is quiet? Post a link to the pump as it might help others willing to roll the dice.
Maybe I just got lucky, I just replaced it and it seems fine.
FOR ANYBODY USING THIS LINK - I cannot yet confirm the longevity of this pump, I just replaced it
 

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I dont have any experience, with Idemitsu ATF Type H PLUS. However, it does state that it is "Engineered for and meets the requirements of Honda Automatic Transmission with DW-1 and Z-1 specifications."

Most people here just use DW-1 or Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Do you get it cheaper or something? Maxlife is $18 a gallon at WalMart, and DW-1 is $33 a gallon on eBay (by the case).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I dont have any experience, with Idemitsu ATF Type H PLUS. However, it does state that it is "Engineered for and meets the requirements of Honda Automatic Transmission with DW-1 and Z-1 specifications."

Most people here just use DW-1 or Valvoline Maxlife ATF. Do you get it cheaper or something? Maxlife is $18 a gallon at WalMart, and DW-1 is $33 a gallon on eBay (by the case).
I mainly got the Idemitsu Type H PLUS because of online rumors that it's the exact same fluid as OEM Honda but without the Honda sticker on it. Of course I don't know for sure if it's actually the case.
The Idemitsu Type H PLUS is $31.59 for 5 quarts with free 1 day shipping (I have Amazon prime)
 

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I mainly got the Idemitsu Type H PLUS because of online rumors that it's the exact same fluid as OEM Honda but without the Honda sticker on it. Of course I don't know for sure if it's actually the case.
The Idemitsu Type H PLUS is $31.59 for 5 quarts with free 1 day shipping (I have Amazon prime)
Certainly people there (Amazon reviews) say this is the OEM fluid rebranded as DW-1.

That comes to $25.27 a gallon, delivered. eBay sourced DW-1 is $31.67 a gallon delivered. Valvoline MaxLife ATF is $17.87 at WalMart (if they stock it) plus tax, so around $19.35 a gallon.

I'm sure any of these would be fine. If I were going for economy, I'd switch to Maxlife, but we aren't talking a huge difference either way, when doing DIY.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
how many miles on the Pilot? Make sure you get on top of the timing belt servicing - including water pump, tensioner, etc. From the description, doesn't sound like the seller cared about maintenance.
120K miles and I did replace the timing belt last week. Left the water pump alone due to no leaks there and it's the OEM pump that hasn't been touched. I know it's somewhat of a gamble but I decided to do the water pump with the next 180k timing belt service.
 

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If you replaced the timing belt at 120k miles, the next timing belt service won't be until 225k miles. Timing belts were every 105k miles or 7 years back then. On newer Honda's, the recommendation is mileage only, based on the MM, which is every ~105k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you replaced the timing belt at 120k miles, the next timing belt service won't be until 225k miles. Timing belts were every 105k miles or 7 years back then. On newer Honda's, the recommendation is mileage only, based on the MM, which is every ~105k miles.
For some reason I thought it was 60k. Apparently I really took a gamble with leaving the original water pump there! It just seemed like a waste replacing a perfectly functioning oem part.
 

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For some reason I thought it was 60k. Apparently I really took a gamble with leaving the original water pump there! It just seemed like a waste replacing a perfectly functioning oem part.
Lots of people choose to leave the pump. If you DIY it's not that big of a deal. We change the pumps mostly because they might not make it to 210k (second normal service) and it's expensive to pay to have them changed, as its the same as a timing belt job. I would not sweat it, but every oil change I'd just check the bottom of the front timing cover for evidence of any seepage.

Most of us who DIY use the Aisin TKH002 kit, as it is inexpensive, includes mostly OEM sourced parts, and has an excellent reputation. We get a 5% discount at RockAuto here.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
2. Timing belt & drive belt maintenance/dilemma

Timing belt service at 120k miles:
  • AISIN TKH002 kit
  • left water pump untouched
  • replaced the timing belt idler bolt with new OEM bolt: 14551-RCA-A01 (due to some people reporting this bolt is prone to breakage if reused)
  • reused all other fasteners
  • replaced passenger side engine mount with aftermarket Anchor 9299 mount (large tear in original mount)
Drive belt (aka serpentine belt) service dilemma:

Reinstalled the original drive belt tensioner and torqued to spec.
One of the pulleys has a lot of play and is making a high pitch noise - so I will need to replace the drive belt tensioner.

After doing some research, it turns out the 2WD Pilot (J35Z1 engine) has the inferior drive belt tensioner design.

Many Pilot and Odyssey owners (with the same drive belt tensioner) reported the tensioner bolt breaking over and over again AFTER the original bolt is removed (usually after the first timing belt service)

After reading through numerous forums/threads, I see that nobody really knows what is the cause of the drive belt tensioner bolt breaking (for 2WD Pilot and Odyssey)

Some people only had luck with a new OEM Honda tensioner and bolt, others report that even new OEM tensioner bolt has a high chance of breaking.
Some people had luck with an aftermarket tensioner but reusing the original bolt, but sometimes the original bolt still breaks.

Based on everything I read, these are the takeaways for the 2WD drive belt tensioner:
  • no matter what you do, there is always a chance of the bolt breaking
  • doesn't matter if you use the OEM tensioner or aftermarket
  • the bolt and the washer must be cleaned and oiled before installation
  • the bolt must be torqued with a correctly calibrated torque wrench exactly to 54 ft-lb
  • the hydraulic cylinder must be air bled via bottoming it out 3-4 times SLOWLY
  • the drive belt CANNOT be installed prior to doing all of the above steps, otherwise the tensioner bolt will break
UPDATE:
I replaced the drive belt tensioner with a new generic unit purchased on ebay (when buying generic parts on ebay - you can see how many units were sold, and you can filter the seller's feedback to see feedback just for the item you are buying)
This is what it looks like:
134321


After reading all the horror stories about the tensioner bolt breaking randomly, I compared the old OEM bolt and the new bolt that came with the tensioner.. and decided to reuse the old OEM bolt (though this decision is only based on visual comparison of the two bolts)
134322


I followed the tensioner installation procedure very carefully
Not only did I clean the bolt and the washer with alcohol, but also cleaned the threads where this bolts threads into.
Then I oiled the bolt and the washer generously prior to torquing it to 54 ft-lb
Then I followed the hydraulic cylinder bleeding procedure
And then installed the drive belt

As of right now, everything is good and the high pitch noise is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lots of people choose to leave the pump. If you DIY it's not that big of a deal. We change the pumps mostly because they might not make it to 210k (second normal service) and it's expensive to pay to have them changed, as its the same as a timing belt job. I would not sweat it, but every oil change I'd just check the bottom of the front timing cover for evidence of any seepage.

Most of us who DIY use the Aisin TKH002 kit, as it is inexpensive, includes mostly OEM sourced parts, and has an excellent reputation. We get a 5% discount at RockAuto here.
Yep, that is the kit I used (y)
+ new OEM timing belt idler pulley bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ordered new steering wheel radio control buttons assembly, OEM p/n 35880-S9V-A11ZD

But I am faced with another dilemma with the steering wheel / airbag emblem

The emblem is 50mm x 60mm (unless I measured wrong?)
There is no aftermarket replacement emblem in this size (J's racing type A and type B black&silver oem style Honda emblems are both not this size)
The emblem is permanently attached with plastic rivets to the airbag and there is no OEM replacement for it (as far as I know)

I was really hoping to replace this emblem with something that looks OEM but at this point I'm not sure that's even possible.

20200122_133124_HDR.jpg
 

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Welcome to the forum. That’s a bummer the eBay seller wasn’t fully honest with the condition of the Pilot. It sounds like you have the mechanical skills to get the Pilot back running decently, then you’ll get to enjoy all of the efforts you put into fixing it up.
 

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Ordered new steering wheel radio control buttons assembly, OEM p/n 35880-S9V-A11ZD

But I am faced with another dilemma with the steering wheel / airbag emblem

The emblem is 50mm x 60mm (unless I measured wrong?)
There is no aftermarket replacement emblem in this size (J's racing type A and type B black&silver oem style Honda emblems are both not this size)
The emblem is permanently attached with plastic rivets to the airbag and there is no OEM replacement for it (as far as I know)

I was really hoping to replace this emblem with something that looks OEM but at this point I'm not sure that's even possible.
You can buy the airbag complete on eBay for around $100. Cheaper if you can find one at a PickNPull.
 

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A Pilot as a project car. Fun times. :)

Nice to see you're organized and methodical (normal people talk for OCD :)), so this looks like you're going to make a go of it despite borderline scam seller. Where is he from?

Unless you're planning on replacing all the leaking gaskets and seal, this would be when I step in to recommend, that's right folks...

Throw in a bottle of AT-205 and drive for a hundred miles or so. For ten bucks, what've you got to lose (except less oil)?

More Information for ATP AT205



 
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