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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone

First off, I'm a Pilot lover for 12 years, and an owner of 2 over the last 3 years. I've consistently found that this community offers good help I can't find anywhere else, and this community has been invaluable to me! I first signed up today because I have run into issues I don't see an open topic here for, so here goes:

Back Story:
We bought an 06 exl with 138k on it 2 years ago. My wife drove it for 8 months before totaling it hitting a deer about a mile from home @ 152k on the odo. I took the entire insurance check and set out to rebuild it back up, as there was no frame damage, only metal damage was to the radiator support and fenders, so after 3 weeks of part-time work and almost 5k later, I've got a new front end, new rad and condenser, timing job is done and all solenoids on tranny have been replaced with Honda parts. I'd also replaced all struts/shocks/springs and control arms. Basically, I'm trying to convey that I've put lots of blood sweat and tears into this thing in the last couple years, and it feels like a new car again.

Ok- to the point. I noticed a knocking sound that lasted about 0.5 seconds when starting, and it happened a month before my VTEC went out and left me unable to get above 4k without fuel cutoff. I thought (and prayed lol) that they were connected, eventually ended up replacing everything and the vetch issue was solved, but the knock was still there at startup. I was using a mid-grade oil filter, and thought the drain-back valve was bad. Did an oil change and switched to 0w20 synthetic oil and a honda filter, hoping the thinner oil would give me a clue as to where to look next. It didn't make things better, but it didn't make anything worse.
Yesterday, I noticed an almost silent knock while the engine was idling. The oil light blinks sporadically at times as well, 3 days ago it was blinking in a consistent pattern, indicating a low pressure condition. I am now convinced that my lower bearings are bad, on at least one cylinder.
IDK if it's even economic to do, but given everything else I've sunk into this in the last 2 years, I feel it should be done, and could be done as it's not sounding like it's very bad yet. Without the knocking at startup, I don't think anyone would even identify the knock at idle.
So I am debating pulling the crankshaft to replace both the main bearings and the lower rod bearings on the crank.
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My questions for you all are these:
- Has anyone experienced this before and pulled the crank? I'm wondering if the crank is soft and might be prone to damage even at an early stage like this- I'm hoping to not have to take the crank in to have it analyzed and/or machined, due to both time and local availability. Ideally, I'd like to toss in standard oem sized bearings after I make sure there's no scoring on the crank and put it back together to find success.

- I don't have a lift, what's involved in removing the crank beyond pulling timing/oil pump/oil pan? Is there clearance enough to get the crank/bearings out from below the engine while it's still in the vehicle?
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The Pilot now has 164,XXX miles on it. We have 5 kids, and this is our only vehicle that has room for everyone, so total repair downtime is a big part of the concern. After having a bulletproof acura TL in the past, I feel like this is worth the effort to repair. I've been meticulous on maintenance, though I haven't adjusted the valves yet, but I'm ready for it.

I hope I've included enough relevant information and not too much fluff, thanks in advance for all your help and advice here, I'm very nervous about this and really wish I would have come to this conclusion 5 weeks ago when we were laid-off, but I'm headed back to work tomorrow.

I can definitely take pics and do a write-up if the consensus is to take a crack at this one myself. I'm capable and have proper tools to get the job done correctly at home (minus a lift), but I'm inexperienced with this kind of issue.
Thanks everyone!
-Josh
 

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Hello everyone

First off, I'm a Pilot lover for 12 years, and an owner of 2 over the last 3 years. I've consistently found that this community offers good help I can't find anywhere else, and this community has been invaluable to me! I first signed up today because I have run into issues I don't see an open topic here for, so here goes:

Back Story:
We bought an 06 exl with 138k on it 2 years ago. My wife drove it for 8 months before totaling it hitting a deer about a mile from home @ 152k on the odo. I took the entire insurance check and set out to rebuild it back up, as there was no frame damage, only metal damage was to the radiator support and fenders, so after 3 weeks of part-time work and almost 5k later, I've got a new front end, new rad and condenser, timing job is done and all solenoids on tranny have been replaced with Honda parts. I'd also replaced all struts/shocks/springs and control arms. Basically, I'm trying to convey that I've put lots of blood sweat and tears into this thing in the last couple years, and it feels like a new car again.

Ok- to the point. I noticed a knocking sound that lasted about 0.5 seconds when starting, and it happened a month before my VTEC went out and left me unable to get above 4k without fuel cutoff. I thought (and prayed lol) that they were connected, eventually ended up replacing everything and the vetch issue was solved, but the knock was still there at startup. I was using a mid-grade oil filter, and thought the drain-back valve was bad. Did an oil change and switched to 0w20 synthetic oil and a honda filter, hoping the thinner oil would give me a clue as to where to look next. It didn't make things better, but it didn't make anything worse.
Yesterday, I noticed an almost silent knock while the engine was idling. The oil light blinks sporadically at times as well, 3 days ago it was blinking in a consistent pattern, indicating a low pressure condition. I am now convinced that my lower bearings are bad, on at least one cylinder.
IDK if it's even economic to do, but given everything else I've sunk into this in the last 2 years, I feel it should be done, and could be done as it's not sounding like it's very bad yet. Without the knocking at startup, I don't think anyone would even identify the knock at idle.
So I am debating pulling the crankshaft to replace both the main bearings and the lower rod bearings on the crank.
----------------------
My questions for you all are these:
- Has anyone experienced this before and pulled the crank? I'm wondering if the crank is soft and might be prone to damage even at an early stage like this- I'm hoping to not have to take the crank in to have it analyzed and/or machined, due to both time and local availability. Ideally, I'd like to toss in standard oem sized bearings after I make sure there's no scoring on the crank and put it back together to find success.

- I don't have a lift, what's involved in removing the crank beyond pulling timing/oil pump/oil pan? Is there clearance enough to get the crank/bearings out from below the engine while it's still in the vehicle?
-----------------------
The Pilot now has 164,XXX miles on it. We have 5 kids, and this is our only vehicle that has room for everyone, so total repair downtime is a big part of the concern. After having a bulletproof acura TL in the past, I feel like this is worth the effort to repair. I've been meticulous on maintenance, though I haven't adjusted the valves yet, but I'm ready for it.

I hope I've included enough relevant information and not too much fluff, thanks in advance for all your help and advice here, I'm very nervous about this and really wish I would have come to this conclusion 5 weeks ago when we were laid-off, but I'm headed back to work tomorrow.

I can definitely take pics and do a write-up if the consensus is to take a crack at this one myself. I'm capable and have proper tools to get the job done correctly at home (minus a lift), but I'm inexperienced with this kind of issue.
Thanks everyone!
-Josh
Poor oil preasure can be due to low rpm.
A knock upon start up can be a bad engine mount.
A bad connecting rod bearing can be heard all the time. Raising the rpm would increase the knocking.
There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to diagnose a bad conecting rod or main bearings. What's your oil preasure at 1000 rpm? Need some live data.
Just need to be absolutely sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does it have variable cylinder management (VCM)?
Yes, forgot to mention, I don't believe i have VCM and it is AWD.
Poor oil preasure can be due to low rpm.
A knock upon start up can be a bad engine mount.
A bad connecting rod bearing can be heard all the time. Raising the rpm would increase the knocking.
There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to diagnose a bad conecting rod or main bearings. What's your oil preasure at 1000 rpm? Need some live data.
Just need to be absolutely sure.
Due to the all-day downpour, I haven't been able to get in and snag the oil pressure reading. I will definitely be doing that tomorrow after work, weather permitting. I'll return here to update that.
On the issue of oil pressure, the steady blink of the oil light was happening while driving on the interstate.
The oil light blinking erratically does happen when sitting idling, and I'm NOT certain that the lighter oil (0w-20) isn't contributing to it, but that oil's been in there for 2 months and this is the first it's progressing to a dummy light.
As far as diagnosing it, I'm certain that's where it is for the following reasons:
I can hear the faint ticking of the lifters (in all fairness could possibly be the injectors) simultaneously with the knock sound, which sounds very solid compared to traditional valve train noise. It does indeed get slightly more prevalent as RPM's increase. It's VERY faint at this point, but I'm very familiar with the vehicle and noticing the small differences.
I'm an electrician by trade, but I've been doing extensive work on cars since i was 15 (I'm 35 now) redoing my first car with the help of my pops, and have rebuilt my last engine 2 years ago (1.3l Mazda) but it was not bad when I did it, so I'm lacking the confidence in trying to determine this crankshaft health on first notice of impending failure.
It's probably a bit foolish to try to get around having it checked for concentricity at a machine shop, but I have measuring instruments (calipers & micrometer set) to get what I think would be a "good enough" way of verification on that specific issue.

If it's worth it, I can create and upload some videos to YouTube so you all can get a better feel for what I'm saying.

Big thanks to everyone here, I appreciate it!
 

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Yes, forgot to mention, I don't believe i have VCM and it is AWD.

Due to the all-day downpour, I haven't been able to get in and snag the oil pressure reading. I will definitely be doing that tomorrow after work, weather permitting. I'll return here to update that.
On the issue of oil pressure, the steady blink of the oil light was happening while driving on the interstate.
The oil light blinking erratically does happen when sitting idling, and I'm NOT certain that the lighter oil (0w-20) isn't contributing to it, but that oil's been in there for 2 months and this is the first it's progressing to a dummy light.
As far as diagnosing it, I'm certain that's where it is for the following reasons:
I can hear the faint ticking of the lifters (in all fairness could possibly be the injectors) simultaneously with the knock sound, which sounds very solid compared to traditional valve train noise. It does indeed get slightly more prevalent as RPM's increase. It's VERY faint at this point, but I'm very familiar with the vehicle and noticing the small differences.
I'm an electrician by trade, but I've been doing extensive work on cars since i was 15 (I'm 35 now) redoing my first car with the help of my pops, and have rebuilt my last engine 2 years ago (1.3l Mazda) but it was not bad when I did it, so I'm lacking the confidence in trying to determine this crankshaft health on first notice of impending failure.
It's probably a bit foolish to try to get around having it checked for concentricity at a machine shop, but I have measuring instruments (calipers & micrometer set) to get what I think would be a "good enough" way of verification on that specific issue.

If it's worth it, I can create and upload some videos to YouTube so you all can get a better feel for what I'm saying.

Big thanks to everyone here, I appreciate it!
Oil preasure light coming on while on the highway is definitely not a good sign, even with 0w20 oil.
Do you have any engine codes?
Is it using oil?
I'm just having a tough time accepting this (not that your wrong) being that the vehicle is at 165k miles, unless there was previous owner abuse or someone rolled the milage back. If the bearings are gone then a rebuilt or a low milage engine replacement would be my choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oil preasure light coming on while on the highway is definitely not a good sign, even with 0w20 oil.
Do you have any engine codes?
Is it using oil?
I'm just having a tough time accepting this (not that your wrong) being that the vehicle is at 165k miles, unless there was previous owner abuse or someone rolled the milage back. If the bearings are gone then a rebuilt or a low milage engine replacement would be my choice.
Forgot a few key points I wanted to make before. First, I believe the noise is the bottom end because I can time the noises, and at 1k rpm it makes the noise roughly 10x/sec. If it was the top end it would be double that, correct me if i'm wrong.
It's got zero codes on the CEL, but I still ran diagnostics here to see if there was codes held that weren't yet triggering a CEL, but there's nothing. Not even when the oil pressure light is blinking. The steady blink does reset when the car is turned off and then restarted, but in my researching that's just telling me it observed a low pressure condition sometime in the drive.
It's not using ANY oil as of yet, I checked that immediately, hoping I'd find a low level but it was exactly where it was on the last oil change approx. 2.5k mi ago.
I watched a video that showed pulling the plugs and using a long socket extension to determine when the piston is travelling down, and lightly pushing down to feel a movement or tapping with a rubber mallet on it to try to hear the tick of metal moving... I haven't tried that yet. My dad just happened to call and suggested just pulling the pan and attempting to move a piston from there, given the lack of room at the back of the engine if I were to try to get a visual confirmation I might be better off going from down under.
IDK what's going on with the engine given the low mileage, I usually suspect owner neglect when I buy a vehicle but when I did the timing on it (around 140k) I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only was it done, but it was all honda genuine parts. That made me feel like maybe this thing was better cared for than I previously thought, but now i'm back to feeling uncertain.
OH- also I did already check the front and right side engine mounts and they are not super stiff but they are in good shape, not torn or cracked and I have very little engine movement when torqueing it to see what's going on. Beyond that, I've had no other indications of a bad motor mount.
I'm still very uncertain here... it has in the past shifted VERY violently into OD getting onto the highway maybe 6 months ago, but it was a one-time occurrence at that level, but it's shifted harder than i'd like going into OD before, and it was actually after I'd replaced both the shift and TC solenoids with genuine honda replacements. It's got me confused, because the trans has since then been very solid, and I've been keen on looking for it since it first happened.
If there's no good way of doing this without pulling the engine, I'll probably consider taking it into a local shop, but if I'm gonna do that I feel I should consider just getting a low-mileage engine and trans instead of needing to do a tranny next year.
I'm so frustrated, when Kelly totaled it she left it up to me to decide on taking the cash and tossing a few more bucks into getting a different pilot... and I feel like I shit the bed on that one right now. So many hours put into it that my pride tells me to just keep sticking money and work into it :whistle:

So, there's a potential that the rear engine mount could be bad... I feel like I should make a video of startup. I'd be literally ecstatic if that's all it was, as I've actually got a full set of engine and trans mounts here for it, because initially that was my first guess. The one thing that leads me to believe it's not is that when this FIRST started, I would crank the engine just enough to where it wouldn't start, but I could try to get some oil pushed through. Initially, doing this would stop the noise when I started it immediately after, and I started to feel it was an oil pressure issue. That was a bit ago, and now I cannot get it to work like that, it will still knock on start no matter how much I try to prime the oil pressure before starting.
Looks like I've got a lot that I should get for you here so you can get a better idea of what's going on.
I use the torque pro app to run OBDII diagnostics, and in the settings it doesn't allow me to view oil pressure on the pilot. Is that the case for everyone, or is it strictly a fault of the app? I actually have 3 different obd Bluetooth connectors, and tried the others to see if they'd report oil pressure, but they haven't. I'm assuming i'll need to take my gauge and thread it into the oil pressure sensor hole down by the VTECH assembly, unless there's a better place.

thanks again for the help
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I want to get to the rear engine mount now to get a full look, have you heard of them going bad w/o the front or right side being bad? I now feel really under-prepared to start a thread on this, I'm seeing there's a lot more I should have done before reaching out, but I appreciate you not handing me my ass about it :)
weather looks good for tomorrow afternoon, I should be able to get the rear mount and oil pressure readings for you then. Have a great night!
 

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Forgot a few key points I wanted to make before. First, I believe the noise is the bottom end because I can time the noises, and at 1k rpm it makes the noise roughly 10x/sec. If it was the top end it would be double that, correct me if i'm wrong.
It's got zero codes on the CEL, but I still ran diagnostics here to see if there was codes held that weren't yet triggering a CEL, but there's nothing. Not even when the oil pressure light is blinking. The steady blink does reset when the car is turned off and then restarted, but in my researching that's just telling me it observed a low pressure condition sometime in the drive.
It's not using ANY oil as of yet, I checked that immediately, hoping I'd find a low level but it was exactly where it was on the last oil change approx. 2.5k mi ago.
I watched a video that showed pulling the plugs and using a long socket extension to determine when the piston is travelling down, and lightly pushing down to feel a movement or tapping with a rubber mallet on it to try to hear the tick of metal moving... I haven't tried that yet. My dad just happened to call and suggested just pulling the pan and attempting to move a piston from there, given the lack of room at the back of the engine if I were to try to get a visual confirmation I might be better off going from down under.
IDK what's going on with the engine given the low mileage, I usually suspect owner neglect when I buy a vehicle but when I did the timing on it (around 140k) I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only was it done, but it was all honda genuine parts. That made me feel like maybe this thing was better cared for than I previously thought, but now i'm back to feeling uncertain.
OH- also I did already check the front and right side engine mounts and they are not super stiff but they are in good shape, not torn or cracked and I have very little engine movement when torqueing it to see what's going on. Beyond that, I've had no other indications of a bad motor mount.
I'm still very uncertain here... it has in the past shifted VERY violently into OD getting onto the highway maybe 6 months ago, but it was a one-time occurrence at that level, but it's shifted harder than i'd like going into OD before, and it was actually after I'd replaced both the shift and TC solenoids with genuine honda replacements. It's got me confused, because the trans has since then been very solid, and I've been keen on looking for it since it first happened.
If there's no good way of doing this without pulling the engine, I'll probably consider taking it into a local shop, but if I'm gonna do that I feel I should consider just getting a low-mileage engine and trans instead of needing to do a tranny next year.
I'm so frustrated, when Kelly totaled it she left it up to me to decide on taking the cash and tossing a few more bucks into getting a different pilot... and I feel like I shit the bed on that one right now. So many hours put into it that my pride tells me to just keep sticking money and work into it :whistle:

So, there's a potential that the rear engine mount could be bad... I feel like I should make a video of startup. I'd be literally ecstatic if that's all it was, as I've actually got a full set of engine and trans mounts here for it, because initially that was my first guess. The one thing that leads me to believe it's not is that when this FIRST started, I would crank the engine just enough to where it wouldn't start, but I could try to get some oil pushed through. Initially, doing this would stop the noise when I started it immediately after, and I started to feel it was an oil pressure issue. That was a bit ago, and now I cannot get it to work like that, it will still knock on start no matter how much I try to prime the oil pressure before starting.
Looks like I've got a lot that I should get for you here so you can get a better idea of what's going on.
I use the torque pro app to run OBDII diagnostics, and in the settings it doesn't allow me to view oil pressure on the pilot. Is that the case for everyone, or is it strictly a fault of the app? I actually have 3 different obd Bluetooth connectors, and tried the others to see if they'd report oil pressure, but they haven't. I'm assuming i'll need to take my gauge and thread it into the oil pressure sensor hole down by the VTECH assembly, unless there's a better place.

thanks again for the help
Yes, Definitely want to get a reading on the oil pressure. There is a chance the oil pressure sensor (not switch) is bad. A new one cost about $10-15.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, Definitely want to get a reading on the oil pressure. There is a chance the oil pressure sensor (not switch) is bad. A new one cost about $10-15.
It's not stopped raining since yesterday morning, but I'm going to check that rear engine mount and hoping i have the right thread, I'll get an oil pressure. For now, i just uploaded a start-up video on YouTube that you can hear the sound. I wanted to try to get the engine noise as it's running, but it's so faint and a diesel truck just came around the corner.

Here's the video link:

If that kind of knock is there and it's from a motor mount, would you expect to see some engine movement in coordination with the sound?
Hope to be back with some news in an hour or so!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before I make myself a ton of work, is this the oil pressure sensor/switch that I want to remove to get my pressure reading from? The one my middle finger's touching, with the black boot on it, behind the vtech pressure sensor?
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136344
 

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Before I make myself a ton of work, is this the oil pressure sensor/switch that I want to remove to get my pressure reading from? The one my middle finger's touching, with the black boot on it, behind the vtech pressure sensor? View attachment 136344
Yes. That is the Oil Pressure sensor. The switch is up on the head, drivers side.
 

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I found these threads. Just to try and find answers.

 

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I also have a 2006 Pilot and, like you, I am not a mechanic by trade, but have done much of my own mechanic work since I was a teenager. Your oil pressure light would concern me. Definitely check your oil pressure with a gauge. On the knocking, is it more of a Thunk, Thunk, Thunk, or is it more like the rattle you would get on a pre 1974 motor when burning unleaded fuel, or something different? Your knocking may be related to your Tick Tick Tick.

My Pilot just turned 320,000 miles. It still runs fine on the original engine and transmission. I have had the engine oil changed every 7,000 miles and the transmission flushed (yes flushed and only flushed) every 60,000 miles. I have done other maintenance and changed a few other parts.

My Pilot developed a vibration around 180,000 miles. I tried in vain to find it. I had the tires balanced, rebalanced, bought new tires, rebuilt the whole front end and through process of elimination, narrowed it down to the engine. I found a couple of posts that described my situation and they recommended valve adjustment. All the previous mechanics (2) that changed my timing belt, did not adjust the valves. At 257,000 I decided to change the timing belt and adjust the valves myself. It took me 4 tries to get the valve adjustment near perfect. Each time I learned a little bit more. Since there are 2 intake (tend to get looser over time) and 2 exhaust (tend to get tighter over time) valves per cylinder, they can get out of adjustment (sync) and start to dance setting up the vibration I was experiencing. As I got the valve adjustment better each time I did it, I noticed not only did the vibrations go away, but the engine got quieter and smoother. My Tick Tick Tick of the tappets decreased considerably and I noticed less knocking as well.

My engine currently knocks a little, but not enough for me to put forth great effort to change it. I am thinking about replacing the engine and transmission (already bought a low mileage used, around 60K miles back when the engine had only 220K) somewhere around 350,000 miles. It runs too good for me to change things much earlier.

I have a lot of confidence in the 2006 Pilot, more so than any other model year and make of any vehicle I have owned or even read about.

I hope your knocking concern is as simple as a valve adjustment and that you get the kind of mileage out of your Pilot that I am getting out of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I found these threads. Just to try and find answers.

Thank You! I just got a 1kA carbon pile load tester, I will definitely be doing this now, we had other electrical issues when the alternator failed.. thanks for the tip!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I also have a 2006 Pilot and, like you, I am not a mechanic by trade, but have done much of my own mechanic work since I was a teenager. Your oil pressure light would concern me. Definitely check your oil pressure with a gauge. On the knocking, is it more of a Thunk, Thunk, Thunk, or is it more like the rattle you would get on a pre 1974 motor when burning unleaded fuel, or something different? Your knocking may be related to your Tick Tick Tick.

My Pilot just turned 320,000 miles. It still runs fine on the original engine and transmission. I have had the engine oil changed every 7,000 miles and the transmission flushed (yes flushed and only flushed) every 60,000 miles. I have done other maintenance and changed a few other parts.

My Pilot developed a vibration around 180,000 miles. I tried in vain to find it. I had the tires balanced, rebalanced, bought new tires, rebuilt the whole front end and through process of elimination, narrowed it down to the engine. I found a couple of posts that described my situation and they recommended valve adjustment. All the previous mechanics (2) that changed my timing belt, did not adjust the valves. At 257,000 I decided to change the timing belt and adjust the valves myself. It took me 4 tries to get the valve adjustment near perfect. Each time I learned a little bit more. Since there are 2 intake (tend to get looser over time) and 2 exhaust (tend to get tighter over time) valves per cylinder, they can get out of adjustment (sync) and start to dance setting up the vibration I was experiencing. As I got the valve adjustment better each time I did it, I noticed not only did the vibrations go away, but the engine got quieter and smoother. My Tick Tick Tick of the tappets decreased considerably and I noticed less knocking as well.

My engine currently knocks a little, but not enough for me to put forth great effort to change it. I am thinking about replacing the engine and transmission (already bought a low mileage used, around 60K miles back when the engine had only 220K) somewhere around 350,000 miles. It runs too good for me to change things much earlier.

I have a lot of confidence in the 2006 Pilot, more so than any other model year and make of any vehicle I have owned or even read about.

I hope your knocking concern is as simple as a valve adjustment and that you get the kind of mileage out of your Pilot that I am getting out of mine.
Thank you! I have the valve adjustment tools here for it already, this had concerned me as a lower engine issue so I put it off.. I think you're onto something here as well
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wow, it's been 10 days since I last got on here to update, I apologize!
Rear mount looks fine, as do the transmission mounts.
I didn't have the right thread on my pressure tester so I took it to the garage in the village here. I asked for a pressure test to help diagnose the start knock, but being that I drove it there he couldn't hear it. I left it for him to take home and back so he could hear it, and he checked a few things I did, the crank pulley and the timing belt tensioner.
We talked about the VVT not kicking in, and after pressure switch and solenoid w/new gasket/strainer didn't correct itself, but 2 weeks later randomly disappeared and he agreed there might be something blocking my oil passages and it moved.
Now, I have AWD and I believe that means I do not have VCM. He felt like it could be a oil drain down issue at the top end if I did have VCM, as he's seen that in others.
He never did do a compression test, because he said he believes it's got good pressure if it resolves the knock noise within a second or two of starting. He recommended I try Seafoam and run a 500mi cycle, drain and refill with seafoam mix again and run again to see if it clears anything up. He didn't charge me anything for it.
I got under the truck before I took it in while it was running to try to hear a knock from the crankcase, but it really sounded smooth. I feel like this might be the top end, and I was very immature to report this as a bottom end right off the bat.
I haven't adjusted the valves yet, but along with the battery test that's my next moves. We're having a housing crisis here (landlord wants us out in 5 weeks to sell the house, but now wants 55% more than he wanted 5 months ago) and as a family of 7 that's been my main priority.
I will keep updating this as I snail along in progress, even if it's delayed.
PS- What kinda time am I looking at for a valve adjustm
 

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Wow, it's been 10 days since I last got on here to update, I apologize!
Rear mount looks fine, as do the transmission mounts.
I didn't have the right thread on my pressure tester so I took it to the garage in the village here. I asked for a pressure test to help diagnose the start knock, but being that I drove it there he couldn't hear it. I left it for him to take home and back so he could hear it, and he checked a few things I did, the crank pulley and the timing belt tensioner.
We talked about the VVT not kicking in, and after pressure switch and solenoid w/new gasket/strainer didn't correct itself, but 2 weeks later randomly disappeared and he agreed there might be something blocking my oil passages and it moved.
Now, I have AWD and I believe that means I do not have VCM. He felt like it could be a oil drain down issue at the top end if I did have VCM, as he's seen that in others.
He never did do a compression test, because he said he believes it's got good pressure if it resolves the knock noise within a second or two of starting. He recommended I try Seafoam and run a 500mi cycle, drain and refill with seafoam mix again and run again to see if it clears anything up. He didn't charge me anything for it.
I got under the truck before I took it in while it was running to try to hear a knock from the crankcase, but it really sounded smooth. I feel like this might be the top end, and I was very immature to report this as a bottom end right off the bat.
I haven't adjusted the valves yet, but along with the battery test that's my next moves. We're having a housing crisis here (landlord wants us out in 5 weeks to sell the house, but now wants 55% more than he wanted 5 months ago) and as a family of 7 that's been my main priority.
I will keep updating this as I snail along in progress, even if it's delayed.
PS- What kinda time am I looking at for a valve adjustm
Thanks for the update. We definitely want to know how things turn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
UPDATE:
The seafoam really didn't do anything for me, I gave up on it and changed the oil with new mobil1 and added a quart of lucas oil treatment to it. With the seafoam in it, I was getting the oil light flashing anytime I was idling in gear, like at stop lights etc. If I put it into park it went away, but in gear I was now hearing a little bit of the knocking sound coming into the cabin as it was running.
So I bought a new oil pressure test kit, it's a GearWrench brand and it just threads onto where the oil filter goes and takes readings from there. I just did the test, and i'm getting 9psi at a low, 10psi at a high and zero pressure at startup while the noise is happening... as soon as pressure builds the noise goes away with it.
Is 10psi near where I wanna be? Because at this point I'm thinking I've got a failing oil pump.
PS- I now remember when we first bought the vehicle, it sounded good. Upon the first oil change was the first time I ever heard the knock at startup, and I had initially attributed that to the oil filter having a little bit of air in it. I'm now wondering if this wasn't a problem for at least all the 30k mi we've put on it, and they simply had something like lucas in it at the dealership we bought it from.

TLDR; With movile1 5w-20 and a quart of Lucas in it, I've got ~9.5psi at the oil filter. This seems very low, is this a failing oil pump?

Thanks, and hope everyone's weekend is going well

-JOsh
 
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