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Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced the radiator, now I'm gearing up to do the plugs and a valve adjustment on my 2005 Pilot EX. I seem to recall an excellent DIY guide on the valve adjustment job, I looked in General->Maintenance but there's hardly any stickies in there any more (yes I've been gone for a while).


Does the valve adjustment guide still exist? If so could someone link it please?


Also anything other tips, or anything else I should do while I'm in there.


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Tahoefever. Wow, big difference between the J35A9 engine and the J35Z1... "remove intake manifold" lol that's a big Step 5 in the A9 procedure, plus lots of "replace me" gasket cost/effort. I need to do spark plugs anyway, so all the TDC rotations would be easier if I combine the procedures.



I think on an '05 I have the Z1, but I need to confirm that before continuing. Honestly the intake manifold issue may be enough to sub it out to my trusted local mechanic if I have do add that procedure. Scraping gaskets is not my favorite pastime.
 

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Keep me posted on what you end up doing. My 2005 has 98k miles and will be due for its valve adjustment next year. When I asked last time my local dealer wanted $400. I’m not sure if that included replacing any gaskets or if they were reusing old ones which I wouldn’t do on my 13 year old vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm at 207K, I'm going to get a couple estimates. Timing Belt/water pump is also coming up soon, but we're not driving it so much at the moment, so I may not act for a month or two... but I will update this thread whenever I do.
 

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1st generation Pilot also had engines J35A4 and J35A6. In 2006, the model was restyled, and the engines were replaced. Honda Pilot FWD now used J35A9, and Pilot AWD – J35Z1.
In 2008, 2nd generation Honda Pilot was launched with the new and improved J35Z4 engine.
In 2015, 3rd generation Honda Pilot was launched; it got even more perfect engine J35Y6, which had direct injection system and many other improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah, thanks again. So the answer is "neither engine." Just looked under the hood, it appears removing the valve covers is possible without pulling the intake, but I can see it would make working on the rear bank much harder to have the intake still in the way.


Any input on Mahle versus FelPro valve gasket sets? It seems like the spark plug seals changed in size over the years, as half the customers are very happy with the FelPro and the other half very unhappy with the size of the SP seals.


MAHLE VS50427

FEL-PRO VS50607R
 

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I found increased valve clearances. If this is what usually happens to Pilots, you will hear "we need adjustment" sound. Decreased clearance is bad, increased will make noise, nothing bad will happen. So talk to guys who adjusted lots of Hondas and ask if they found decreased clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This is the DIY thread I recall/was looking for:


DIY (J35A4) valve adjustment - Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums


That procedure is for an 2003-4 J35A4. I suspect with the 2005 I have an A6, because my intake manifold is one piece, and does not have the removable front and rear wings of his A4.


I also dug up this DIY thread on 2005 MDX valve adjustment. I suspect this is a J35A6:

2005 Acura MDX Valve Adjustment (lots of pics!) - Bob Is The Oil Guy



And for general reference, all the grand old DIY threads:


https://web.archive.org/web/20130604051858/https://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/36594-all-diy-maintenance-threads.html
 

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Discussion Starter #10
car5car,


I've been reading all the threads I can about this. Common themes in valve adustments are they were found "OK," or "Exhausts were too tight."
 

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Discussion Starter #12
spark plugs do not wear out!!! Do not waste your time. Manufacturers do not use old type of spark plugs anymore, which had to be checked and adjusted every 30k miles.

It's been... 103K miles since I put the last set in. I'm not breaking the bank on Spark Plug changes. It also gives me a chance to check each coil and the health of each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was requested to follow-up, I just had the following done by my trusted independent mechanic:

  • Timing belt, tensioner, water pump, Serpentine belt
  • Valve Adjustment & gasket replacement
  • Spark Plugs
  • ATF Temperature Sensor
The valve adjustment took 4 shop hours plus a $57 gasket kit. He said he used every bit of those 4 hours to do it. So road2cycle's dealer estimate of $400 is quite reasonable.


My mechanic reported every single exhaust valve was tight, so it was good I had the job done or I'd be facing burnt valves eventually. He said the intakes were all over the place, mostly in spec but he adjusted them all precisely. He must have, as a distinct lifter tap I've had for the past few months went away.


All that work was a pile of money, but well worth it, since I plan to keep it for a while.
 

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I appreciate the follow-up. I think I’ve seen enough posts mentioning the exhaust valves tightening up to get this scheduled soon. My wife’s Pilot is at roughly 102k miles.
Do you happen to know if they have to pull the plugs out when doing this job? I was planning on doing the plugs myself but might try to negotiate a discount for that if they get removed anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The recommendation on forums is to pull the plugs and the intake manifold to make the easier, but neither is strictly necessary. My mechanic says he doesn't bother to pull plugs when adjusting valves, but he did pull the manifold. However you'd better be a real athletic contortionist to work around the intake manifold on the rear bank.



The spark plugs were due, and it does make the valve job easier, so I just had him do it. He lumped in the spark plug labor with the valve adjustment at 4.0 hours. I did the first set of plugs around 105K, NGK Iridium IX, which did fine. My mechanic chose to use NGK 4363 double Platinum, a step up and nearly double the cost (but still reasonable).
 

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Thanks for the info. I was wondering about the four hours labor you mentioned since dealership shop rate was about $150 per hour when I asked early last year. 4 hours book time would have put my dealer’s quote at $600 assuming it was all labor. But since your 4 hours lumped the valve adjustment and spark plug labor that makes more sense since I’m guessing book rate for the plugs is around 1.5 hours.
When I changed my Tacoma’s plugs last month my chest hurt for two days afterwards due to leaning over the fender. I’m guessing changing the Pilot’s rear bank involves lying across the engine block. Sounds like it’s going to be fun.
 

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I finally tackled this job myself last month on our 2005 EXL. It took me about 5 hrs, but then I was drinking beer and checking YouTube here and there as I went along. I found it was way easier to reach the rear bank with the intake removed. Removing the intake was not that big of a deal. It's just a matter of removing all of the bolts. The rear valve cover was a pain but after I got it out I realized there were a few harness attachments that I were hindering me. I freed any attachments to allow extra room to maneuver the valve cover into place and it was much easier going back on. I think it took longer to remove and replace the old valve cover grommets than it took to adjust the valves. It wasn't hard just time consuming. I found that all of my intake valves were loose and the exhaust valves were tight. I went ahead and did the spark plugs too while I was there. I removed them during the valve adjustment since it made the engine easier to rotate. Overall it wasn't too terrible. I'm glad I was able to save some coin in the process. I was also due for a timing belt and did that as well as the front and side engine mounts. The Pilot is smooth and quiet again. Maybe we'll be able to get another 100k out of her.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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I finally tackled this job myself last month on our 2005 EXL. It took me about 5 hrs, but then I was drinking beer and checking YouTube here and there as I went along. I found it was way easier to reach the rear bank with the intake removed. Removing the intake was not that big of a deal. It's just a matter of removing all of the bolts. The rear valve cover was a pain but after I got it out I realized there were a few harness attachments that I were hindering me. I freed any attachments to allow extra room to maneuver the valve cover into place and it was much easier going back on. I think it took longer to remove and replace the old valve cover grommets than it took to adjust the valves. It wasn't hard just time consuming. I found that all of my intake valves were loose and the exhaust valves were tight. I went ahead and did the spark plugs too while I was there. I removed them during the valve adjustment since it made the engine easier to rotate. Overall it wasn't too terrible. I'm glad I was able to save some coin in the process. I was also due for a timing belt and did that as well as the front and side engine mounts. The Pilot is smooth and quiet again. Maybe we'll be able to get another 100k out of her.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Ugh! I just got done doing a valve adjustment on a 2006 Pilot this week and yeah the adjustment is a royal PITA ! The problem and the most time consuming part of the whole job is adjusting the rear valves ( exhaust ) because you cannot see the valves i had to use a mirror to see the valves and the clearance blades even at a 90 degree angle were difficult to get in between the valve.

So if you are like me i had to go back and recheck clearance after i already performed the procedure.

The reason why is because i am already there, both valve covers off, and it isn't that much work to recheck clearance once is is already done.


10 mm wrench and flat blade to do the trick , but misfires gone now
 

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Any input on Mahle versus FelPro valve gasket sets? It seems like the spark plug seals changed in size over the years, as half the customers are very happy with the FelPro and the other half very unhappy with the size of the SP seals.


MAHLE VS50427

FEL-PRO VS50607R
So, which gasket set did you go with? How well did it fit?

(I'm just wondering because I'm just about to do the same thing with my '05 and am facing the same question.)
 
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