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2005 Honda Pilot over 200k miles. VTM-4 and CEL.

3K views 22 replies 12 participants last post by  plplplpl 
#1 ·
The VTM-4 and check engine light came on two days ago. Took to dealer. Just got the call, said looked like 2 cylinders are misfiring and it is leaking oil. Recommend putting in a used engine for around $5000. That is not something we can do right now. Can anyone give us some insight on options?
Appreciate any advice.
 
#3 ·
Order a motor from JDM all there engines come straight from Japan and the most mileage that’s in them is 55000 miles and there around 1200$ and if you want the transmission with it it’s 1500 201-955-9556 or go there web site and go to a local shop and have them do the job about 1300 and if you think about it for 2500 you got yourself a new truck again
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
I’m assuming the dealer performed a diagnostic including reading the codes. Post what they reported.
 
#11 ·
With all due respect, I'm not saying it won't come back, but,
Check the air cleaner- change if real dirty, o/w- don't.
Clear the code and see if it comes back.

I know the valve clearance can and does cause the mis fire codes, BUT
If it runs OK, and doesn't make too much engine noise, Try nothing.
 
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#10 ·
I haven't done any diagnostics on your engine, BUT

Was it running bad? Or you took it in b/c of the CEL light and codes?

I could just about guarantee, it does NOT need a new engine!!
Especially if it was running OK. NO way.

My 08 Pilot gave me a CEL and I had the codes read at AutoZone- free and it
had missfires in ALL cylinders.
But, it ran fine!
I disconnected the battery and reconnected to clear the code.

After weeks and thousands of miles- it NEVER came back!
You know what I fixed?

NOTHING!
 
#12 ·
All due respect, but I think your dealer may have hastily misread the CEL. :p

142771
 
#13 ·
oh that darn change engine light, aka the money light, gets you every time!
I'd pull the plugs on the cylinders that are misfiring to check their condition then maybe swap some of the ignition coils around. the VTM light can come on for various reasons. I believe the owner manual says a temp sensor in the differential can trigger it so maybe low or dirty fluid. My VTM light came on from a wheel speed sensor acting up but that also was accompanied by the ABS light I believe.
 
#14 ·
Ya know how many, if not most shops make real money,
by doing shady things like diagnosing in unsuspecting customers!
then they fix small things, and charge you for big things, hence the make big $$.
If it runs OK, a misfire code usually is no big deal. I had 5 of the 6 misfire codes.
I did nothing, still hasn't come back on.
 
#17 ·
I want to +1 the Valve Adjustment comment. I have a 2006 and had the same issue with the CEL and VTM-4 lights. It started intermittently on and off, one or both lights, but no noticeable issues in driving. Gradually over time it became more frequent and eventually started to have noticeable issues. Was getting several codes at the time. Replaces several inexpensive parts trying to troubleshoot. This went on for a good year. Eventually a friend came and helped me with a valve adjustment. It was like waving a magic wand. The old girl was back to running in top shape.

Couple years later i started having both lights come on again. This time i was registering an O2 sensor code, as well as communication bus failure or two. Replaced the O2 sensor and that solved everything. Definitely would start with the codes and highly consider a valve adjustment before replacing the engine.
 
#20 ·
this is a good lesson: sensors don't last forever AND engines need maintenance beyond the simple oil change
 
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#21 · (Edited)
There are 3 things already mentioned in this thread that I would like to second before even remotely considering anything as extreme as an engine replacement:

1. ATP AT-205 Reseal, this is highly recommended to stop dried out oil seals such as the rear main seal from leaking, as mentioned already it's only $10 or so and is perfectly safe to try: http://atpautomotive.com/featured/re-seal

2. Pull your upper intake manifold and clean out the EGR passageway (and the corresponding passageways on the underside of the manifold cover.) Fairly easy procedure- there are some youtube videos showing how to do it. If it's never been done it's a good bet there is some gunked up carbon in there. I had a similar code and cleaning those passageways and replacing the PCV valve (both very cheap and easy) solved the problem.

3. Change the valve cover gaskets. It may seem like a daunting task at first to pull the valve covers but it's really not that bad especially if you already have the intake off. Several youtube videos showing this procedure as well. The Fel-Pro gaskets can be gotten fairly cheap at usual auto parts stores,

All this should not cost more than $30-$40 and may fix the issue. Of course you can also check the plugs themselves to make sure they are in good shape.and not contaminated. If none of this solves the problem then my next step would be a valve clearance adjustment which should also not cost too much as noted above. An entire engine replacement would be an absolute last step in my book and probably not worth it anyway as the money could be better used on a down payment on a newer vehicle. Good luck
 
#22 ·
also note, those things will have been a waste of money if a cylinder compression and leak-down tests come up showing a bad engine
 
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#23 · (Edited)
Unless you pretty gosh darn sure the whole thing really needs to be swapped out, start with the fast, cheap and easy solutions first.

 
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