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Alright, so I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot with 195,000 miles with a salvage title November of 2019. Since then, I am currently at 202,000 miles and am currently still waiting on parts to come from RockAuto for some preventive maintenance. Obviously, my car being a savage title meant problems, but it ran great mechanically and I can care less about cosmetic because this car will basically be a beater.

1 of the problems I encountered when buying this car was that it had a check engine light. So I had it scanned and found P0741 and P0430. So obviously I came across this website after trying to diagnoses the issues after purchasing the car.

For P0430, most people suggested replacing the O2 sensor or the catalyst converter. Me being cheap, decided to use some Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner from a local Walmart because logic is that, fuel being $3.69/Gallon meant that previous owner probably went and got cheapest fuel in town because this car was a savage title and that they have been trying to sell this car for several months so better go cheap. Anyways, after adding the additive and several tanks of fuel from a local Shell, 87 Octane, check engine light came on probably a couple of times until after adding 350-600 miles to the car. At the time, I was getting 15 mpg city driving even with me going 35 mph at slow startup most of the time, even cruising at 55-60 mph at the highway meant a improvement of .6 mpg. After fixing that issue, my mpg went to 16-16.7 mpg city with some slow startup and 18-19 mpg cruising on the highway at 65-75 mph. In the end, spent like $10 to fix P0430. If you avg lower than mines, you're probably stepping on it at startup because the transmission for the Pilots are basically all highway gears made to save fuel on the highway.

As for P0741, basically a pain in the ass to diagnosis. I went through so much forums and pages and every single freaking solution did not help me at all. But I will tell you my experience with this so far. Transmission shifts perfectly, as if there were no issues and no slipping or any of the sort, just a really annoying loud clunk with shifting into reverse. Fluid was bright red, so it had been changed rather recently or for several months so far, so I just drove it and did my research on dealing with P0741 because the car still ran fine. I cleaned the A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A & B, super clean, checked and replaced the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve with a new one, and cleaned the A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C and eventually replaced it because it was bad, which made shifting even better then before. Anyways, drove it until 200,000 miles and it started to shudder at 55-65 mph like I'm driving on the rumble strips after a 450 mile trip. In case you're wonder about fuel mileage, I avg 17-18 mpg cruising at 75-80 mph up to 350 miles with 16 gallons of fuel. I eventually changed the fluid with Valvoline MaxLife because it's cheap and I can get it locally for $17.99 per gallon. So on the event that I cannot remove the damn check engine light, I'll just drive the transmission to the ground and save up for a new one. Did two flush with the MaxLife and found that the shutter was still there. So I gave up on the third flush because kinda stupid and a waste of money at this point until I came across a forum where they fixed this same exact issue with Dr. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx. After 50 miles, I can confirm that it actually stopped it, still working fine even now. Apparently it also works for other automatic transmission too. After fixing the issue, I found out that the check engine light would only occur when shifting into 5th gear and that it would sometimes downshift to 2nd gear when I let go of the gas at 30-35 mph occasionally, so now I'm currently waiting on Shift Solenoid C from Amazon to arrive this Friday because this is a potential fix since most people claim that this fixed the P0741 on Acura TL. So fingers cross and I'll give a update if it was fixed or not.
134738

"I can sorta read this diagram but can't guarantee that I know my stuff."

2nd issue I had with the car. It kept making a loud chunk when you take it out of park and into reverse. Whether its on a hill or flat ground, kept doing it. I get worried that I might damage the transmission if I keep doing so often so I have been setting the parking brakes, then neutral so the weight rests on the parking brakes, then put it into park. Only issue is that sometimes it would do a damn chunk. So I decided to live with this issue until I decided to change the VTM-4 fluid, since there were no service history on the car than the fact that the last timing belt was done at 125,000 mile. Anyways, bought VTM-4 fluid from Amazon because it was 1 day shipping and the fact that I'm lazy, hint the username. After replacing the VTM-4 fluid, it doesn't make a loud clunk whenever I shift into reverse, whether its from a incline, cold morning, or flat ground without the parking brake on. Obviously I still set my parking brake whenever I can, but it doesn't make the loud clunk, maybe a jerk here and there but otherwise, its not as noticeable.

3rd issue with this car, and screw Honda security and the damn programming for the key fob. Found out that the dealership that bought this car after it was salvaged decided to hook up a external key fob receiver, so not genuine key fob and whatnot. Anyways, it would auto-lock when I turn my car to accessory which didn't allow me to program the new key fob that I was trying to use. So I had to disconnect the bypass wires to the lock and unlock along with the honk, because I was doing this at a apartment complex. So a great tip is to do it somewhere that won't amplify the noise more than it should or just remove the horn relay because after programming the new key fob, the security system went off after unlocking the doors and getting out. Btw, had to reconnect the stupid bypass wires because the new key fob wouldn't work without it. So my stupid ass had to rehook everything back to how it was again because the key wouldn't start the car and the panic button didn't work. Even the good old method of closing all the doors and locking it didn't work. Spend god knows how long to rehook the cable so that it would get better contact with the copper wire while making sure the new key fob works. So yea, when buying a used Honda, make sure its a genuine key with the key fob, otherwise you risk running into the same issue as me. You can tell if the key fob is connected to the Honda system based on unlocking and locking the car. You have to press the lock twice to get a beep whereas when unlocking, you have to press it twice to unlock all the door and it doesn't beep. Correct me if I'm wrong but apparently that's how my car works. Bought two cheap aftermarket key fob to replace ugly key fob, now have three key fob that works and only had to program two.

4th issue, car would vibrate when idling at the stoplight but go away after driving. If AC is on, vibration would get worst. Yea, found out that Honda Pilots are notorious for having bad rear motor mounts.... Check that first....

5th issue, driving at night with the heat on at 2AM, I work at FedEx. So what has been bugging me was that the headlights would flicker. Apparently its a feature to save fuel, just turn off AC Mode. Can't see through the fog or the ground as clearly even when it's aimed correctly, get fog lights. I recommend just going to the dealership to save the headache because the EX-L doesn't have a slot for the fog light switch and the bumper doesn't have a slot for the fog light mount, unless you're willing to deal with the hassle of installing them, or be like me and just deal with it.

I only have several annoying problems: Navigation Disc Error, Bad CV Axle Seal and maybe bad CV Joint, and Audio matching with the revs of the engine. Probably get to it eventually, just not now because I don't know if it is a issue and also too lazy to deal with it. Currently have 202,500 miles on it and haven't owned it for that long, so still researching about the "features" of the Pilot. Although I would love to get my hands on the navigation manual since, you know, mines came with nothing except the title and I can access the online owners manual. Also, any good factory service manual sites that I can use, because the paperback is sold out like usual and apparently the 2005 Pilots is that weird year with a mixture of old and new things that didn't transfer to the 2006 Pilot. Anyways, will post updates whenever I get the chance too and feel free to correct me because I'm still learning about this car, I just pretend I know a lot about this car. :LOL:
 
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