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About a week ago the "D" light on my gear indicator in my 2005 Pilot started flashing which I know means there might be something up with the transmission so we stopped driving it as mush as we normally do. Yesterday my mom and my sister had to use it though and they noticed that it was hesitant to shift and when it did it was really rough, and almost "sluggish" as my mother put it.
I've been trying to research the possibilities of what it could be all over the internet, but I can't find any consistent answers. Any ideas?
 

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Also take a look at your coolant bottle. Is it chocolate milk colored? If so STOP driving now.
Get the car to a repair shop and have the radiator replaced. Refill with honda coolant.

Next, drain and refil the transmission fluid at least three times to reduce the concentration of antifreeze in the transmission.

But hopefully its as simple as the other thread says
 

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Get it checked by someone who can read the code unless you hope to cause additional damage to the transmission.
 

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Flashing D light means the computer has detected a problem. Check the codes yourself then tell us what they are...

Okay here is some helpfull info for those DIY'ers out there that have experienced the flashing D light.

I found out how to pull the special Honda Transmission codes from the ECU without actually going to Honda (they don't show up on an OBD2 scanner). Take a paper clip and unbend it so you have two prongs pointing in the same direction. Now jam them into the #4 and #9 pins of your OBD2 service port like the picture below (My Pilot has the plug oriented different so pay attention).



Grab your pen & paper and sit down in the drivers seat. Now stick the key in and switch the ignition to the On position. Your D light and check engine light and VTM light will begin flashing. Pay attention to the D light for now. Record the number of long blinks followed by the short blinks for your D light. Then do the same for your Check Engine light and VTM light. In my case I had code 27 on the D light. That was 2 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks. Then I had code 70 on the check engine light. That is 7 long blinks and no short blinks.

When I go to the shop manual, Code 70 means "problem with the automatic transmission". This is a generic code and WILL show up on an OBD2 scanner as P0700 which simply tells you "go to the dealer". This only means there was A problem with the transmission. Next is where we refer to the code 27 (the real info). This won't show up on a scan tool. Code 27 means one of two things in the shop manual:

- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (short or stuck ON)
- 4th clutch fluid pressure switch (open or stuck OFF)

Since I replaced both my pressure switches yesterday, I should be good to go now.

Yes. But it's still not as good/specific as the Honda HDS scanner. For example, the code 27 I pulled, would be displayed on your dashboard for both an open or short condition of the 4th gear pressure switch. If you had the Honda HDS scanner, it would tell you specifically as code 27-3 for short/on or 27-4 for open/off.

The weird part is that manual reads off OBD2 style "P" codes (powertrain) for every transmission-specific code as well, but I was unable to read these with the OBD2 scan tool I borrowed from O'Reilly's. P0872 = 27-3 and P0873 = 27-4. The only one I could read with this tool was P0700 which, as I mentioned, is a generic "AT Problem" code. And I even had to put the scanner into a special "Honda" specific mode to find that one.

Here is a list of the A/T trouble codes you can get from your dashboard. This reference is from a 2004 Acura TL, so it's probably missing 4WD specific stuff. Also notice they are in an odd group order (not numerical). According to the manual the codes I've put in bold "are caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission". This means the ones not in bold are BAD NEWS!:

5 - Transmission range switch (multiple shift-position input)
6 - Transmission range switch (open)
28 - ATF temperature sensor (range/performance, short, or open)
15 - Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (range/performance, intermittent failure)
9 - Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (range/performance, no signal input, intermittent failure)

64 - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th or 5th gear incorrect ratio
40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off
76 - AT clutch pressure control solenoid valve stuck (ON, OFF)
70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF)
71 - Shift solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
72 - Shift solenoid valve C stuck (ON, OFF)
77 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B stuck (ON, OFF)
45 - Shift control system

24 - Transmission gear selection switch upshift or downshift switch (short or stuck ON)
26 - 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
27 - 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
24 - Transmission gear selection switch (short/ON, open/OFF)
16 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A
23 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B
29 - A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C
7 - Shift solenoid valve A (short, open)
8 - Shift solenoid valve B (short, open)
22 - Shift solenoid valve C (short, open)
1 - Torque converter clutch solenoid valve (short, open)


BTW: I figured this out while reading and re-reading and re-reading the first couple pages of the A/T section of my 04 TL shop manual. It mentions you can get the trouble codes to display via the D light by grounding out one of the wires on your OBD-2 scanner harness. Well I knew there had to be a ground already in the plug itself, so I did a little searching. That's when I found a website that mentioned getting check engine light codes to display on your dash (that's where that picture came from). I figured it would work for the trans codes, so I tested it and it worked.

This page shows all the codes your Check Engine Light will blink out: K20Tuned LLC*::*DC5/EP3 Codes
 

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The flashing D has to do with the 3rd and forth pressure switches. they are $33 at the dealer. What you have to do is take off the driver side tire, remove the plastic splash guard (be care full not to break the plastic clips) there right on top of the transmission with an electrical connection attached to them. You will need a deep 22mm socket. All you do is remove the electrical connector, push in the small tab pull off. Unscrew the switch, use a new crush washer replug the connector in and you done. The 4th pressure switch is the on that is bad but since you doing it change the 3rd switch while you there. I'll post the part numbers in a few minutes so you can get them from the dealer. Very easy job that will take about 45min to do.
 

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This is the part numbers for the 3rd and 4th switch assy. (Flashing D)
28600-RAY-003
28610-RAY-003
90471 10mm crush gasket (you will need 2)
91501 plastic clips for the splash guard (if you need them )
 

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my 2005 d light flashed for about 5 minutes in october last year. this was a few weeks after i had the timing belt replaced (tho this may not be related at all). my son borrowed it that evening and drove 200 mi and back (400 mi) to move into his new apartment. there was no blinking light reported by him. i changed transmission fluid a week later. blinking d light has not return so far. what could that be?
 

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flashing d

follow the paper-clip method outlined above in my post. Then tell use what the code is.

so, i finally found the time to try the paper clip method yesterday! the transmission flashed 2 long blinks followed by 7 short ones. the engine flashed 7 long codes. this is exactly your codes, too. however, mine has no longer the flashing d for about a 1000 miles and 6 months now. what's next? thanks!
 

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Yeah, the light starts flashing only when it detects a total failure. Your pressure switches are starting to act up. They get out of calibration after years of service and it looks like now is a good time to replace them. Your shift quality is likely suffering and perhaps other parts within the transmission. Will cost ~$70 in parts depending on your year. 2005 EXL shows parts...

28600-RAY-003 -$34.21
28610-RAY-003 -$34.21
90471-PW7-A00 -$1.90 (you need two of these crush washers)

OEMAcuraParts.com is a good place out of AZ and a site sponsor. You can get half-price shipping with promo code GALAGA too.
 

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flashing d

Yeah, the light starts flashing only when it detects a total failure. Your pressure switches are starting to act up. They get out of calibration after years of service and it looks like now is a good time to replace them. Your shift quality is likely suffering and perhaps other parts within the transmission. Will cost ~$70 in parts depending on your year. 2005 EXL shows parts...

28600-RAY-003 -$34.21
28610-RAY-003 -$34.21
90471-PW7-A00 -$1.90 (you need two of these crush washers)

OEMAcuraParts.com is a good place out of AZ and a site sponsor. You can get half-price shipping with promo code GALAGA too.
thanks a bunch! got the part ordered! can you please get me the link to install the parts. i've seen it here but just to save me time... thanks.
 

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hmm, i also registered now as a customer. i have honda accord and civic, as well. they have an excellent website and their prices are right! thanks again 94reg!!
 

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blinking d

Only odd tool you should need is a 22mm wrench. I think you can maybe get away with an adjustable wrench that can spread that big. Just don't tighten the new ones that much because they only take 14lb/ft of torque. That is not very much at all.

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/18-maintenance/27348-diy-replacing-transmission-pressure-switches.html

:29:
hey thanks to that useful link! wow! didn't realize how prevalent this problem is. it really makes a lot of sense to do this like preventative maintenance as the other members have done. $90.00 and 1-2 hours of your time to avoid transmission problems and costly repairs is really worth it. now i cringe to think what could have happened in the long (or short) run considering i ignored the warning (flashing d). i was really confident that the problem went away on it's own (foolish). much obliged!
 

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sooo, now that i have finally replaced the pressure switches, will i have to clear the code since the computer will still retain the trouble code (?) without clearing it after the repair (tho my flashing d has not been flashing for a long time before the repair)? hmm, maybe i'll check this with the paper clip method--out of curiousity.
 

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hmm, after replacing the 2 pressure switches yesterday. it ran perfectly as i expected it to be. i drove it for 25 miles at 65 mile/hr and some back road driving, too. also replaced the 20k mi old cabin filter. that felt pretty good! so, first thing in the morning today (as soon as daylight came—after coffee) I went ahead and codes. however, some scary moments this morning when i tried to recheck the "flashing d" codes. the first time i connected the paper clip, there was a spark! uh, oh, i told myself. but i went ahead and proceeded. with the paper clip inserted to their respective pin #, i turned the key on (not the engine). all dash lights that i expected to come on came. and there was no flashing codes! and yet i didn't feel comfortable or relieved. i was actually worried (what could the spark mean?)! i really wasn't sure yet. i rechecked the diagram. hmm, i found out that i connected the paper clip in the opposite direction--instead of #4 and #9 pins, i connected #9 and #4. now i know beforehand it was very possible that people will do this and no harm could happen, right? so i went ahead and reconnected correctly. still, no codes flashed! i was relieved. i removed the paper clip and then turned the engine on--it cranked but the engine would not turn on! i cranked it several more times-nothing! dash lights are all on! but engine is not turning over! my mind started racing--tracing back, looking for scenarios. to complicate matters, since i didn't start the engine before checking the codes this morning, did the problem (engine not starting) occured overnight? hmm, i checked my battery (pretty new battery with good cables). i checked under the vehicle for tell tale signs of leaking/seeping transmission fluid (actually just checked the level before everything and it was ok) from the new pressure switches. none. i disconnected the battery cables and went for a coffee break for 30 min. reconnected the battery--nothing! grabbed my obd scanner and inserted it under the dash. the scanner won't turn on, too. i reinserted the scanner in my other car and it was fine. by this time, i was feeling a little headachy. heart was beating faster! did i fry my ecu? i grabbed the pilot's manual and looked for the ecu fuse (i must have blown it!). i found the fuse under the driver's side dash. i pulled it as well as the fuel fuse nearby but they weren't blown. darn! i opened the hood--there were two more boxes of fuses there! but none pointed to anything specific about the ecu, ignition or fuel. in the main switch box under the hood, there was this fuse that i can't recognize the name--acg s (15 amp). i pulled it! aha, it's blown! i raplaced it with a spare fuse nearby. i turned the engine and i heard the sweetest sound of the engine turning over! hmm, so that was one problem solved. acg s fuse is alternator (after googling it). but what about the fashing d code? i reconnected the paper clip (ever so careful this time). no flashing codes. i inserted the obd scanner--it came on, too. no codes, either! everything seem fine now (so far!). currently listening to my music as i write this post. i think i'm starting to get to know my pilot better. thanks!
 

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Woah! Scary moment for you. I've my share of them too. Pretty much every time you see a spark, it's almost always a blown fuse (unless your messing with the battery terminals).

BTW: Connecting 9 & 4 vs 4 & 9 is the exact same thing. Perhaps you meant you connected 8 & 13? Either way, I'm really glad to see you getting to know your vehicle.

 
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